matt_spitfire Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 Im looking at buying some engine mounts for my ta22 from KE Conversions in aus, he uses 3mm plate can these be certified? Link for mounts here: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/61198-4age-to-ke70-ke30-ke20-and-ta22-mounting-kits/ Cheers! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 the engine mount brackets look ok, sometimes those cortina style engine mounts are too soft depending on the rubber the gearbox x member may need more strength if its 3mm. hard to judge that till its bolted in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_spitfire Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 the engine mount brackets look ok, sometimes those cortina style engine mounts are too soft depending on the rubber the gearbox x member may need more strength if its 3mm. hard to judge that till its bolted in Cheers Cletus, I'd just be getting the engine mounts and rubbers not the gearbox crossmember Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Transom Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 While we are on the engine mount subject I have not got a lot of room to use my stock mx5 rubber mounts Or the big steel cup around them Is it ok to use generic round rubber mounts like in those photos Looking at some landrover ones that are low profile Stock mount location on crossmember - rubber mounts with 10mm studs- 6mm steel plates onto engine Ticketed welds on the plates Sound ok ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLUX Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 Guessing cutting a bit out of here and boxing it for clearance for the air intake is going to be a no no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 While we are on the engine mount subject I have not got a lot of room to use my stock mx5 rubber mounts Or the big steel cup around them Is it ok to use generic round rubber mounts like in those photos Looking at some landrover ones that are low profile Stock mount location on crossmember - rubber mounts with 10mm studs- 6mm steel plates onto engine Ticketed welds on the plates Sound ok ? a trap with that style of mount is there is no locking function like a lot of oe mounts, you have to have something to prevent the steering getting jammed up by the engine if the rubber mount breaks. Usually not a problem on a smaller engine that has a lot of clearance from the steering shaft, but is often an issue on something like a 1UZ Can be fairly easily solved though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 Guessing cutting a bit out of here and boxing it for clearance for the air intake is going to be a no no? the hard part will be sealing it again? ie so the engine lid seals could you make an angled throttle body adapter to move it out of the way 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Transom Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 a trap with that style of mount is there is no locking function like a lot of oe mounts, you have to have something to prevent the steering getting jammed up by the engine if the rubber mount breaks. Usually not a problem on a smaller engine that has a lot of clearance from the steering shaft, but is often an issue on something like a 1UZ Plenty of clearance from steering wheel shaft and unis Not much room above the steering rack and crossmember What's minimum clearance all round for engine to body shell or crossmember? Can be fairly easily solved though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Transom Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 Oop fucked up quote and reply gotta run Soz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Transom Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 Let's try that again Plenty of room to steering wheel shaft Not much room between engine sump and steering rack / crossmember What's the minimum clearance re commended / allowed Engine is cradled in a V by the mounts so theoretically can't drop if they break Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 Real quick q, The head of the "bolt" that holds my pack of leaf springs together Is rusted to fuck. It's Okay to replace that with a 12.9 tensile capscrew yeah? I'm also making lowering blocks, so I'll just make the locator dowel hole the same size as the head of the capscrew. And then the locator dowel on top to match the hole in the spring pad on the diff. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 Min clearance would depend on how wobbly the mounts are, the main thing is to make sure the engine/ box can't touch the body including movement on the mounts. the main problem with preventing anything bad happening with a broken mount is the engine rocking over under power- it's almost always the passenger side mount that breaks and you need to make sure it can't rock over and jam up the steering shaft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 Real quick q, The head of the "bolt" that holds my pack of leaf springs together Is rusted to fuck. It's Okay to replace that with a 12.9 tensile capscrew yeah? I'm also making lowering blocks, so I'll just make the locator dowel hole the same size as the head of the capscrew. And then the locator dowel on top to match the hole in the spring pad on the diff. Yep that's fine to do 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted September 14, 2016 Share Posted September 14, 2016 Let's try that again Plenty of room to steering wheel shaft Not much room between engine sump and steering rack / crossmember What's the minimum clearance re commended / allowed Engine is cradled in a V by the mounts so theoretically can't drop if they break It's really easy- just use pin and eye bush mounts like on the end of a panhard bar. Can just cruise to a wrecker, grab one rear link off something like a safari and cut the ends off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Transom Posted September 14, 2016 Share Posted September 14, 2016 It's really easy- just use pin and eye bush mounts like on the end of a panhard bar. Can just cruise to a wrecker, grab one rear link off something like a safari and cut the ends off. Yus been looking at that setup too but probably with new bits All the wrecks where I am are still on the road or being hoarded= no real wreckers within 200km of me Rockauto and trademe are my fastest parts suppliers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLUX Posted September 14, 2016 Share Posted September 14, 2016 the hard part will be sealing it again? ie so the engine lid seals could you make an angled throttle body adapter to move it out of the way Space is tight everywhere but will have a look into such things, just exploring options at the moment I can box and seal everthing so the engine lid so its still enclosed easy enough 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rammo Posted September 17, 2016 Share Posted September 17, 2016 Anyone got the excerpt from section 15.11-15.13 from the hobby car Manual? Just trying to work out how to get away with leaving LHD wiper arrangement for RHD conversion. Cheers. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted September 20, 2016 Share Posted September 20, 2016 FYI the part in the rules that relates to fluid reservoir has been updated "must be readily accessible to inspect and fill with fluid" is the wording Does this apply to hydraulic clutch masters too? Mine is under the floor, and under the seat. Easy enough to check on a lift Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 20, 2016 Share Posted September 20, 2016 Does this apply to hydraulic clutch masters too? Mine is under the floor, and under the seat. Easy enough to check on a lift nope, theres not much in the rules about the clutch side of things Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OSM Garage Posted September 20, 2016 Share Posted September 20, 2016 Have a couple of questions CletusIve had my starion struts cut and shortened to use adjustable KYB inserts. Then converted them to coilovers using welded on sleeves.The welding was all done mig by a certified welder (have a copy of his ticket etc). Is there a need to have these xrayed? Any other forseeable problems? if you go by the absolute letter of the law, any mods to suspension parts like that should be tig welded and crack tested.However, i have certed quite a few struts modified like that ie just a sleeve welded on to the original strut, and ive never had one knocked back by LVVTA. IMO the weld in that situation does not have a lot of load on it for the size of the weld, so its not super critical, as opposed to a strut welded at the base which has steering/braking forces and weight bearing on the welded join Clint, is the above still the case? If so, do they need to be NDT? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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