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Thanks, that sounds like what im after, was it an off the shelf item?

Yep they come in a range of sizes and spline counts.

I got mine from Kruzen Kustoms in Palmy, they were the cheapest by a fair bit when i shopped round. 

 

Cant remember what brand mine is but see link below

http://www.ididitinc.com/accessories-3/Borgeson_Acc-24

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IMO here is the order of best to worst-

 

I would look at swapping columns if you have a S3 one,

 

use a joint out of a production vehicle 

 

if you want an aftermarket one, use one with a pinch bolt setup,

 

use one with 2 grub screws as a last resort.

 

i would say half the aftermarket flaming river/borgeson joints i see have play because they have come loose on the spline or shaft. OE style ones out of japanese cars never seem to cause an issue

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Quick question,

 

When the 64 was vinned iv just noticed they have registered it as a 5.3L however it had the LS1 in it when it went for both vin and cert.

Cert plate says 5.7, should the vin/car rego be reading 5.7 as well"?

sometimes takes a while to be updated after the cert is processed.

 

if you want to get it changed yourself its quite easy, go to testing station with your cert plate number , get a 'change of vehicle details' form, fill it out, done.

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Mx5s have a splined steel universal on steering shaft may fit rx2

 

 

Nice, will investigate

 

IMO here is the order of best to worst-

 

I would look at swapping columns if you have a S3 one,

 

use a joint out of a production vehicle 

 

if you want an aftermarket one, use one with a pinch bolt setup,

 

use one with 2 grub screws as a last resort.

 

i would say half the aftermarket flaming river/borgeson joints i see have play because they have come loose on the spline or shaft. OE style ones out of japanese cars never seem to cause an issue

 

Yeah i have what i believe is a s3/4 rx2 column. Is it an engine out job to swap? Factory rubber joiner thing has bolts through both ends, would only use a joint with the same.

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So I took the car for a cert, one of the items it failed on was that it needs a heat shield between master cylinder and exhaust (turbo housing).

Would a turbo beanie meet the requirement? (I asked him but he wasn't sure how good they were and said he would need to be able to hold has hand in between them after going for a decent drive) 

 

For those not familiar with Subaru's, picture below (sorry about the photo, I was trying to work out what master cylinder I had):
14657722_1433034496710689_2100603552_n.j

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This guy found that turbo beanies are quite effective

 

 

So I took the car for a cert, one of the items it failed on was that it needs a heat shield between master cylinder and exhaust (turbo housing).

Would a turbo beanie meet the requirement? (I asked him but he wasn't sure how good they were and said he would need to be able to hold has hand in between them after going for a decent drive) 

 

For those not familiar with Subaru's, picture below (sorry about the photo, I was trying to work out what master cylinder I had):
14657722_1433034496710689_2100603552_n.j

 

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Could you please clarify a couple of these rules around fuel line proximity to exhaust bits?

 

10.8.3

Flexible fuel hoses fitted to a low volume vehicle must not be positioned within 100 mm (4”) of the outside edge of any adjacent exhaust system unless suitably heat-shielded.

 

What is 'suitably heat-shielded.'?

 

On my car I've fitted a 1jzgte to a 180sx which means the turbo downpipe is on the same side as the fuel lines so is definitely within 100mm of the exhaust. I've already wrapped the downpipe in exhaust wrap but is there a point/distance that it will be failed even if I add some alloy sheet to make an air gap?

 

I thought about running the fuel lines on the other side but S13's are weird, the chassis rail on the passenger side doesn't run the whole way, so the fuel line would be exposed.

 

The other option I've thought about is running line inside the car but I'm unsure about this one.

 

 

10.8.5

Rigid fuel pipe or flexible purpose-designed automotive braided stainless steel covered hose may be located within the passenger compartment of a low volume vehicle, provided that:

(a) the hose cannot come in contact with either the driver or other vehicle occupants during normal vehicle operation; 

 

I've already run some line from the standard fuel line over the firewall to the other side but if the section near the exhaust fails the cert rules. Then I'll need to look at running new fuel line inside (not sure what to do about the brake line since its next to the drivers side chassis rail and new exhaust as well). 

 

If I was to run it inside, can you clarify 10.8.5 A in red? It would be secured every 300mm but does this rule mean the passengers foot can't touch the line? i.e. it needs to be boxed in?

 

 

 

Thanks muchly.

 

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So I took the car for a cert, one of the items it failed on was that it needs a heat shield between master cylinder and exhaust (turbo housing).

Would a turbo beanie meet the requirement? (I asked him but he wasn't sure how good they were and said he would need to be able to hold has hand in between them after going for a decent drive) 

 

For those not familiar with Subaru's, picture below (sorry about the photo, I was trying to work out what master cylinder I had):

14657722_1433034496710689_2100603552_n.j

I would say it was an acceptable solution as long as it covered all of the hot bits, but its up to your certifier what he accepts

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Could you please clarify a couple of these rules around fuel line proximity to exhaust bits?

 

10.8.3

Flexible fuel hoses fitted to a low volume vehicle must not be positioned within 100 mm (4”) of the outside edge of any adjacent exhaust system unless suitably heat-shielded.

 

What is 'suitably heat-shielded.'?

 

On my car I've fitted a 1jzgte to a 180sx which means the turbo downpipe is on the same side as the fuel lines so is definitely within 100mm of the exhaust. I've already wrapped the downpipe in exhaust wrap but is there a point/distance that it will be failed even if I add some alloy sheet to make an air gap?

 

I thought about running the fuel lines on the other side but S13's are weird, the chassis rail on the passenger side doesn't run the whole way, so the fuel line would be exposed.

 

The other option I've thought about is running line inside the car but I'm unsure about this one.

 

 

10.8.5

Rigid fuel pipe or flexible purpose-designed automotive braided stainless steel covered hose may be located within the passenger compartment of a low volume vehicle, provided that:

(a) the hose cannot come in contact with either the driver or other vehicle occupants during normal vehicle operation; 

 

I've already run some line from the standard fuel line over the firewall to the other side but if the section near the exhaust fails the cert rules. Then I'll need to look at running new fuel line inside (not sure what to do about the brake line since its next to the drivers side chassis rail and new exhaust as well). 

 

If I was to run it inside, can you clarify 10.8.5 A in red? It would be secured every 300mm but does this rule mean the passengers foot can't touch the line? i.e. it needs to be boxed in?

 

 

 

Thanks muchly.

 

 

If it was me i would heat shield the factory pipes rather than moving them inside the passenger compartment, ive never been a fan of having the fuel in the same space as the humans, even if it is allowed. Also making heat shields or using some of that sleeve type heat wrap over the pipes seems easier to me than re routing and attaching them correctly

 

If you have wrapped the exhaust, and make an alloy shield, and there is an air gap, i think that would be fine.

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If i bought some seats from another car and fitted them into my van, by drilling new holes into the mount where the rails are attached. Would that be OK?

anything other than bolting it in as per this

http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/LVVTA_LVV_Cert_Threshold.pdf

 

needs cert,

 

and then you would have to comply with this

http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Seats_&_Seat_Anchorages.pdf

 

If you adapt the seat to bolt to the original anchorages in the floor, the cert requirements are fairly easy

If you drill holes etc in the body, you will need to make new anchorages, which depending on your skill level, can be quite challenging.

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anything other than bolting it in as per this

http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/LVVTA_LVV_Cert_Threshold.pdf

needs cert,

and then you would have to comply with this

http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Seats_&_Seat_Anchorages.pdf

If you adapt the seat to bolt to the original anchorages in the floor, the cert requirements are fairly easy

If you drill holes etc in the body, you will need to make new anchorages, which depending on your skill level, can be quite challenging.

Thanks cletus. That's pretty much exactly what I was thinking. To modify the seat to bolt into the existing bolt holes.
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