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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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Looking at an imported vehicle, thats not been registered here. what comes first? the compliance or the certification for mods?  

if the mods are substantial=

get vin number assigned

get LVV cert done and plate fitted

get compliance inspection done

 

 

the reason for that is if you have the complete compliance inspection done, it can be hard to get a cert done and passed and plate on if you have stuff to fix for cert as well as compliance in  the 1 month period they give you for a recheck.

 

 

if its easy, like a late model car with basic mods, like adjustable suspension, then it doesnt really matter as much

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Man, what a fail. Must have been going off an old spec sheet for the driveshaft hoop.

Heres an example of a hoop that bolts thru the floor

 

loop_zpszn5eznpb.png

 

 

 

 

The standard says the hoop needs to be as round as possible. Is my creation going to fly?

I also have clicked as to why you asked if there were 2 bolts - 2 bolts per side......

 

I dont see any mention about bolt spacing. Can they be in close proximity to each other?

bolts can be close ish, as long as the washer is big enough.

 

I wouldnt stress too much about the roundness thing, that has only come about with that infosheet, so if you made it prior to the infosheet being released, then you wouldnt have to comply with that.

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was hoping that wasnt the case anymore for the cert height, its not a baja race truck so 610mm is a bit impossible for hub center to guard haha. i wonder how this could be fixed without re-cert. 

also..

if i want to get rid of the personalized plate and put a normal plate on will it need re-cert or just a updated plate?

do you know who certed it? the certifier can order a re print if the measurements are wrong.

 

the seat thing is a grey area at the moment, as you dont need a cert for removal of the rear seats and belts,

 

but- the car should match what the plate says.

 

common sense would say removing seating positions would not have any negative effects on the certified modifications, if it was the other way around it may cause issues

 

(ie if it was certed as a 2 seater, then 3 factory seat positions were re fitted, but it couldnt handle the weight of 3 people in the back and it sat on the bump stops)

 

 

in your case theres a few things to sort out on your plate, so i would contact your local certifier and talk to them about updating everything on the plate to be correct

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Hi guys,

I have a mk2 escort fitted with a 5 speed type 9, current gearbox mount is via the original mount using spacer blocks to move it 70mm rewards. However, as I uderstand it it won't meet cert specs. Can anyone advise of how what they have done to meet the cert requirements?

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Hi guys,

I have a mk2 escort fitted with a 5 speed type 9, current gearbox mount is via the original mount using spacer blocks to move it 70mm rewards. However, as I uderstand it it won't meet cert specs. Can anyone advise of how what they have done to meet the cert requirements?

have you got a picture of your setup?

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Hi guys,

I have a mk2 escort fitted with a 5 speed type 9, current gearbox mount is via the original mount using spacer blocks to move it 70mm rewards. However, as I uderstand it it won't meet cert specs. Can anyone advise of how what they have done to meet the cert requirements?

Try to track down a stock auto Escort box crossmember, whack it in backwards.
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in your case theres a few things to sort out on your plate, so i would contact your local certifier and talk to them about updating everything on the plate to be correct

Is there a cost in this?

The certifier I used isn't in business any more

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Is there a cost in this?

The certifier I used isn't in business any more

usually yes.

 

If i make a mistake on a plate, then I wouldnt charge to sort it out, but if it was a different certifiers mistake or other things on the car have changed or been removed (ie it can be covered by a re print rather than a re certification)  then I do charge. The amount would depend on the situation, how long it takes/how far away the car is etc

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Some genius at Mazda thought it would be a good idea to put a rubber block thing on the end of the steering column, between column and steering box (RX2 s2), it went away on s3 rx2. Can i replace it with a bit of steel bar with the splines broached in, or some kind of welded creation? 

 

Looking to improve steering from scary to average. I do have a s3 column i could swap out but not sure what would be less hassle, not that keen to remove column.

 

Vehicle will most likely have to be certed.

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Some genius at Mazda thought it would be a good idea to put a rubber block thing on the end of the steering column, between column and steering box (RX2 s2), it went away on s3 rx2. Can i replace it with a bit of steel bar with the splines broached in, or some kind of welded creation? 

 

Looking to improve steering from scary to average. I do have a s3 column i could swap out but not sure what would be less hassle, not that keen to remove column.

 

Vehicle will most likely have to be certed.

Not sure if itll work in your situation but the Impala had a rubber/material rag joint between the column and the box, replaced it with a billet universal, made the steering heaps better, looked tidier and took up less space (old one was going to foul on alternator)

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Not sure if itll work in your situation but the Impala had a rubber/material rag joint between the column and the box, replaced it with a billet universal, made the steering heaps better, looked tidier and took up less space (old one was going to foul on alternator)

 

Thanks, that sounds like what im after, was it an off the shelf item?

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