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What year is yours @Muncie?? Mines a 1999 Gsix.. found a couple of drive belts last night in the box of bits that were with the Kirby.. got it working for the first time in 15 years or so. I've got a plastic caddy with a heap of attachments, a flexi hose and the wet carpet cleaning head. Thought there was more attachments, but they must of been thrown out over the last couple of house moves. I really need to give it a Autosol like you did.. mines looking like it's been sitting outside under a tree for 10 years.

I got a Kirby in the garage.. just need a new drive belt for it. Got a few attachments as well. Must dig it out

Just saw this on Facebook for sale again.. no stickers tho...

I got a bottle washer setup. Best thing I ever made.. pulled most of it apart when I moved, and never put it back together.

I used to use a single flute end mill for ACM on the CNC Router that I ran for a few years. Spindle speed was up there from memory.. over 20000rpm, and feed rates were about 1800mm a minute.

Made an upgraded bait launcher / spud gun. Should work well Twin 100mm stainless tanks, each able to be isolated separately. 50mm stainless irrigation valve, modified to be released via push button trigger. Its a tad overkill haha.

Were these from pokeno??

Never heard of freezing it first.. and I machined the shit for 16 years. Depending on the hardness, then tool steel is the best To use. If you go see the boys at LEP in onehunga, they will look after you. Plus they pour polyurethane there, so if you had originals, then they can make a mould from them and then pour as many as you like

Looking good.. May I suggest that you get a fire going in it as soon as possible. You are going to need to set the paint well, before its first use.. the smell from the high heat black is pretty horrendous. It will burn off tho, and then you will be all good, till next year, when you will need to paint it again. Also check on the can, but with the pot belly black that I used from bunnings, it said that you have to recoat within 16 hours, otherwise leave for 7 days then recoat. I didn't follow the instruction when I painted my spit, and it all bubbled off in the first burn.

Cheers man, not sure wat to do yet.. I've got a couple of mutton roasts in the freezer, from some old girl I knocked off a few months ago.. may try that, or go the standard ribs or brisket. It's been running for 10.5 hours so far.. and its been pretty consistent between 250F and 270F.. had it cranked up to 435F for a bit, just to try and set the pot belly black paint.

Built me an UDS (Ugly Drum Smoker).. Got an old drum and burnt it out for a few hours, sanded it, pot belly blacked out.. made 4 intakes out of copper pipe.. exhaust is stainless.. Running it for the first time today, to season it.. seems to be pretty easy to keep within temp range for low and slow..

Just chuck a foot valve on the suction side of the pump.. that way you wont loose prime

Hey I got 3 lengths @ 2000mm here.. got surface rust on it, but that's easy to clean off.. your welcome to a piece if you still want it.. I'm in Drury, so may be able to get it on somebody going down your way, if somebody is..

How much do you need for the axle?? I got a couple of lengths in my shed of 50 x 50 x 6mm wall.. perfect for welding stubs into

If you are in Auckland, go see LEP Engineering plastics in onehunga.. they cast polyurethane in sheets from 3mm thick.. will have a heap of off cuts on the shelf.. Otherwise, I will see what I have at home..

Since when?? I thought you could do a 2" lift before it became a cert job. I never had any problems with a 2" body lift I did in my pajero, when it came to wof's

I've asked about bmx bikes, thru my brother who works for avanti.. if your still keen on some, I will let you know what happens.

I thought as much.. there isn't much info about them being fit to vehicles

I've been reading on the net, about suspension lift kits for the new Colorado's.. something along the line of these... https://www.perfectlift.com.au/holden-colorado-rg-2012-lift-kits-PLK-9003E What's the legality of these in NZ? And will it need to be certed??

Yeah I used to work for a company that specialized in polturethane. Problem with polyurethane is that heat and oil/grease can break it down quite quickly. Plus the lower the shore hardness, the softer it is, so it becomes easier to tear. The sheer strength disappears. Elasticity is still there tho. Also, you would have to send your parts in to be made. Supply a mould etc, as nobody will supply the raw materials for you. The curative is a massive carcinogen. And very explosive. Plus for the lower shore hardness grades, there is s 16+ hour cure time at 90 deg C. Silicone and latex are both pourable at home, but I would say that they will have the same problems as low shore hardness polturethane. Poor strength. I would go see Steve a Plus Plastics in East Tamaki and have a chat to him. He's a bloody good guy and probably the most knowledgeable in the field. I used to work with him, and i still send all my work to him, even tho I worked for his opposition. Any other questions, the dont hesitate to ask. Cheers Blair

have you got a model number for the battery? i grabbed a heap of ups batteries from my old work, and they were only 7aH. useless for anything that needs power, even if it has a full size car battery hooked up to it.

Perfect time to put irrigation in

Instead of having to fire the "bait launcher 240" (240 because thats how many meters the frozen sinker that i made went) by squeezing an air gun, that was attached to the top of the irrigarion valve, that I built earlier, I decided to make a electric trigger system for it. Used a 24 volt solenoid and a couple of switches. Works wonders. Just about blew the window out of my conservatory with the 80 psi I had in it.

Nah mate, other side of auckland.. I'm in Drury. That line of lights top left is the airport. Rest is from papakura thru to Manukau and beyond