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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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You can put any engine in any car and leave the brakes standard as long as you haven't increased the overall weight of the vehicle and rolling diameter of the wheel. You could have 2000hp in an morris minor running 4 wheel drums and providing the brakes work as they were intended it wont be a cert issue. Pretty kool eh.

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I expect these questions will have been answered before, but I couldn't find anything recent when I searched... :oops:

 

I bought my Coupe as an unfinished project.  It has had rust removed (sills and around windscreen) - I have photos of the work being done, but no record of who did it.  Will that cause problems with the VIN/cert process?

 

It also came with two sets of plates - the original dead plates, and a live set from another Coupe (same engine).  I'd prefer to put it back on the road with the original plates - is that do-able?  I don't mind if it costs more, I just like the idea of keeping it as original as possible, including the matching black plates.

it would pay to have a chat with a repair certifier about the repairs before you get started, it will need a repair cert if you are going to re reg it with the dead plates

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brake test for cert= up to 50% power increase, 3 stops from 100-0kph under 4.4 sec in a total of 2 min

 

50% or more power increase= 5 stops 100-0kph under 4.4 sec total 3 min.

I forgot about that test. I remember you doing this in that smelly old landcrab morris vtec turbo.

Hey clint have you ever certed a quad bike ? I rang vtnz about getting one put through and they got all confused.

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no, theres some problem with te rules regarding quadwakas , i remember having a big korero with that guy that built the subaru quad thing and he couldnt register it because its not a car it has handlebars, and no seatbelts and it cant be a bike cause it has too many wheels

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Reason I ask is I dropped a dirty old holden 308 in a triumph stag years back and got knocked back on cert for a load of things. One being brakes another was being 4 stud hubs it was suggested I needed to go to 5 stud. As this is another holden transplant in a trumpy wondered if this will be same case. Different certifier may interpret rules differently I guess.

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I have a question about getting a rego for the car I have just built, its a 1927 Ford model T touring car witch has been cut down into a pick up using a 1927 pick up tray, its sitting on a 1928 model A chassis witch has had a custom kick up added for a jag IRS diff, it has a superbell front end. apart from the axles its all vintage parts.

 

 

Would this have to be registered as a 1014 scratch built replica? or could it be registered as an old car with an LVV cert?

 

There would be problems with a windscreen wiper on its horizontal split windscreen and no way to fit 3 point seat belts because there are no pillars, and burst prof door catches on the little doors would be pointless, there like petrol flaps. headlights and tail lamps have no numbers on them.  

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Woohoo!

 

Just finished all 140 pages.. I recommend everyone do it, I learnt quite a bit - including that Clunt (new one?) is a ledge ;)

 

After all that, I am pretty sure I'm good, but I'll post it up in case anyone else is not quite sure on it....

 

RX2 with S3 12a and 5 speed. 

Gearbox mount is factory un modded - check

Pedal box is factory - check

Drive shaft is factory unmodded - check

Engine same size/family/power - check

Bit where it gets a tiny bit squiffy - mounted using RX3 factory Xmember so engine is forward - but bolted under sway bar where the RX3 (or RX2 S4?) units mount. 

Car is lowered, but higher than 100mm

Exhaust is mix of factory bits and not loud

Air filter is low restriction thing

Electric fan

Wheels vary as you can imagine

 

Lastly - Car has been painted recently, but no major body work was done, never been registered in NZ before so how would they know repairs have been carried out to the correct standard? Think it had some rear quarter stuff done prior to it going off the road in 1981 as well.

Any let off if the car is a personal import, and it is in every other way pretty tidy by all accounts - wiring neat, interior and body stock etc..? Or is it body strip back and repaint time..  :shock:

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unless you have photos and repair cert, if they spot old repairs THEY WILL grind back your paint.

If they spot the slightest amount of surface rust THEY WILL make you get it sand blasted

(coming from experience) hold on tight for a long and heart braking ride  :(

 

Bottom line you have to get a repair cert or you will be screwed. Just getting a repair cert will screw you though

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it would pay to have a chat with a repair certifier about the repairs before you get started, it will need a repair cert if you are going to re reg it with the dead plates

 

Just wanted to clarify this, my premier has is dereg, I plan to re-reg with it's old plates. It needs a new outer sill on RHS and a patch on the roof and cowl on bottom of windscreen. Is the need for repair cert basically to cover your ass so if the joker doing the rereg inspection spots repairs you can show them the work that's been done?

 

Secondly, it was a factory 202 prem, and I am planning to put in a chev of somewhat larger capacity which will obviously need a cert. My plan was to do all this in one hit - ie bypass putting in a 202 for the sake of rereg - is this a pretty straightforward process? Because I am going to need a cert for the motor anyway, will I still need to get a repair cert for the rust work?

 

And lastly - who does repair certs? you? or is it like a self certifying thing a panel beater would do?

 

Many churs

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What defines the need for a repair cert? I can understand with compliance say bringing in a yank tank that gets tagged as it comes in. But if a repair cert has not been requested how do you know you need one prior to rereg for an nz car? I thought the rereg was just a strict wof check? And so if I was to have a cert for the car and new engine anyway woild I have jumped through all the hoops necessary? Or as above is it just a safer route to follow?

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unless you have photos and repair cert, if they spot old repairs THEY WILL grind back your paint.

If they spot the slightest amount of surface rust THEY WILL make you get it sand blasted

(coming from experience) hold on tight for a long and heart braking ride  :(

 

Bottom line you have to get a repair cert or you will be screwed. Just getting a repair cert will screw you though

I imported a rock stock S2 RX7 and got done over for flakey rust on the underside, but the RX2 is in much better shape. Its just the repair (small impact I'm guessing, not rust) done in 1970-something that I am curious about - Only recently noticed it, and the body shop that painted it didnt mention anything to me when they rubbed it back...

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I heard from a mate who fixed lots of rusty cars that for revin and to get a repair cert, the repairs need to be carried out by a repairer who has passed muster as a repairer. My mate is qualified to do such repairs.

 

Im pretty sure its just got to be signed off by the repair certerer , its up to him if the work is up to scratch or not was my understanding

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That was the dealio,

But I've been told that this has changed apparently? He said that when he did the test they said lots of repairers were failing said test.

If it's the truth, then there is lots of peeps with projects that are royally screwed.........

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