Chris.QCR Posted December 21, 2013 Share Posted December 21, 2013 Excellent! As soon as the shops are open im there! Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 Hi Clint, Another suspension related question (i tried searching this thread but couldn't find a similar question/answer) I need to adjust my rear camber to get it within the new tolerances for cert as its well over 1 degree more than factory. What is the deal on something like these custom bottom arms: Would they need to be crack tested and have some document saying that they are all g? Or as long as they are well made then its all good? The other option i have is something like these offset bushings (which i would rather not use). Are these frowned upon?: Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 Dose anyone know the max lenth of antenna you can put on your car? I want to use a full lenth 1/4 wave CB antenna wich is a shade under 9ft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_01-2012_Custom_Suspension_Arm_Inspection_Approval.pdf those look like z car rear lower arms? pretty easy to get legal bushes would be ok as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 I'm replacing the top trailing arms on my diff in the Commy with adjustable ones. I reckon I can make an adjustable arm with off the shelf components that will look better and for a third of the of the cost of buying from Whiteline/Nolathane etc etc. These arms are non load bearing so I assume they will be acceptable without extra paperwork? (Category 1A) So I am thinking I'll grab a pair of these threaded bars (designed and certified for speedway) with jam nuts etc and put a pair of bushed heim joints on each end. The bars come in premanufactured lengths in one inch increments so I can "custom make" my arms. Will this be all good??? By my calculations then there should be 30-32mm of thread inside the bars (not including the jam nuts) when the bar is at the same length as factory - I think I need to increase the length of the bars around 5-10mm. The thread of the joints is 5/8" RH/LH Fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 that sounds like a fine plan, minimum thread engagement is 1 1/2 times thread diameter. where did you find those? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 Summit? Speedwaymotors.com maybe? Looks like a lush plan, keen to check them out also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_01-2012_Custom_Suspension_Arm_Inspection_Approval.pdf those look like z car rear lower arms? pretty easy to get legal bushes would be ok as well Thankyou! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 that sounds like a fine plan, minimum thread engagement is 1 1/2 times thread diameter. where did you find those? Yup Spence is right. Speedway Motors.I'm doing an order very early next year so if you want to get in on the deal then flick me part numbers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 How long has it been 1.5x dia of thread engagement? I'm sure I read in the book or words that it was only 1x? Also KK's arms will need a 3mm telltale hole to verify said engagement yeah? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 Dose anyone know the max lenth of antenna you can put on your car? I want to use a full lenth 1/4 wave CB antenna wich is a shade under 9ft keep the total height from ground to tip of aerial below 4.25m and you should be fine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 Here's a question, Does a sedan need working inside/outside door handles, if it has Lvvt cert stating it's a two seater? EDIT, Do the rear doors even need to open at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camo_78 Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 hey Clint, I'm sure I've already asked about getting the pinky off my XE I've just bought, but it says on the paperwork inside the window that it has to be certified before it can get a warrant.is this right??as far as I know it was pinkied for sitting on bumpstops at the front, which I've rectified with brand new cobra springs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 Here's a question, Does a sedan need working inside/outside door handles, if it has Lvvt cert stating it's a two seater? EDIT, Do the rear doors even need to open at all? I would say no. wof manual mentions they only have to work if there are passengers using them. Mandatory equipment1. A motor vehicle fitted with doors used by the driver or passengers for entrance and exit of the motor vehicle must have a door retention system. Permitted equipment2. The door retention system on doors to the rear of the driver’s seat may incorporate safety devices installed during the manufacture of the vehicle to prevent the doors from being opened from the inside of the vehicle (eg child safety locks). 3. A vehicle designed or adapted to transport prisoners is not required to be fitted with a mechanism for opening a door from the inside if the prison compartment has an alternative exit that can be operated by an authorised person in an emergency. Equipment condition4. A door retention system and its mountings must be safe and structurally sound. 5. A door used for the entrance and exit of the driver or passengers must be operable by any occupant seated by the door from inside the motor vehicle, unless it is permitted equipment designed or adapted to operate otherwise. 6. The vehicle must be designed and constructed using components and materials that are fit for their purpose, and within safe tolerance of their state when manufactured or modified. Equipment performance7. A door retention system must be in good working order. 8. A door used for entrance and exit must open and close easily. 9. A door used for entrance and exit must remain secure in a closed position during the operation of the motor vehicle. Modifications10. A modification that affects door or hinged panel retention systems must be inspected and certified by a low volume vehicle specialist certifier, unless the vehicle: a) is excluded from the requirement for LVV specialist certification (Table 6-1-1), and has been inspected in accordance with the requirements in this manual, including those for equipment, condition and performance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 hey Clint, I'm sure I've already asked about getting the pinky off my XE I've just bought, but it says on the paperwork inside the window that it has to be certified before it can get a warrant.is this right??as far as I know it was pinkied for sitting on bumpstops at the front, which I've rectified with brand new cobra springs If you have repaired it in a way that it does not need certification, ie bolt in springs with 100mm clearance etc etc then you wont need a cert to get rid of the sticker from memory that part of the wording on the sticker relates to a vehicle stickered for a noisy exhaust, if that is the case it needs an exhaust cert regardless of what you do to the exhaust to fix it, even fitting a factory exhaust. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 Thanks Clint. My 1200 was certed as a two seater, as it used to have a halfcage in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 that sounds like a fine plan, minimum thread engagement is 1 1/2 times thread diameter. So Clintoris - regarding the plan I had, I've ordered the parts I need. When they arrive I'm planing on jamming them all together to match the factory length. Then installing them and adjusting on a 4 poster hoist to the correct pinion angle. My question is how do I demonstrate that I have a minimum of 1.5 times the thread engaged? A 5/8" thread will need to have 24mm of thread engaged so I think if I drilled a 4mm hole (centred at 22mm from the end of the bar) then as long as that hole has thread visible in the entire hole then I should be safe? Also would I drill a hole right through both walls of the link bar so it's easier to see by the inspector or just one hole on each end to maintain strength of the bar and he can use a mirror to see in the hole if needbe? Thanks and come to Nats you diddle or I'll waste you. Cos I'm now a scary Maori farmer... LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 take pics of them next to a ruler in bits before you start etc? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLUX Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 Does a cert for mods lapse when rego lapses too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 Nope Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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