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This is my first 1:24 car model I've just done recently. No mods, just a copy of the wife's first car.

Workmate just brought a stack of chinesium AN fittings for an efi conversion, macaroni elbows would have been a superior material choice.....

Yup. I am all that is man.

After 2.5 months and about 3,000kms of Chatham 'roads' the Atlas has seen some adventures. Unfortunately the clutch master cylinder has failed which makes driving a slight challenge, but I ordered a new one a couple of weeks ago and am hopeful it'll get here on the next plane. TBC. The engine's getting tired, and I'd love to fit some auto-locker diffs, but apart from that this truck is absolutely perfect for what I need. I lubs it.

colour went down very nicely.

Have a few. Made the civic had it white and silver 2 tone, made a mistake on the black trim so ended up doing the whole thing silver. hated it got so ruined it more and thats how it ended up. Haven't touched another one in the fear i will stuff it up.

Can someone from the 3D printing thread please whip up a few sets of hotwire's, turbo's and tridon's? Cheers.

@kyteler they even do the worlds best rim! https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-24-wheels-17-inch-Ronal-Teddy-Bears-w-stance-tires-for-Tamiya-Aoshima-Hasegawa/254180426791?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D05bc413e65114e999ec5342e5ee5649d%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D254180426791%26itm%3D254180426791&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A7538d8eb-9e2c-11e9-9316-74dbd180afaf|parentrq%3Abbdcd11116b0a4e8e08c7bfbff92e09a|iid%3A1

September will be two years since I've driven this car... So I've decided that I should get it going and try to race it at the final round of the Manfeild winter series. I've not done a whole lot since 2017 due to general slackness, but have cleaned up a bunch of welds around the tubs. This was about a year ago: Fast forward to this week and I've started doing things again. More weld removal, a few holes welded up, paint removal etc. A bit of filler and the first coat of etch this evening to see how it looks: The underside is still a bit wrinkly, but it's good enough for an inner arch. Now to get the other side. to this level.. I always forget how long it takes to sand filler! It's a pretty painful job . Once both sides are in primer I can give the rest of the bay a good clean up, sand and start thinking about paint.

so a small update. yeah the kombi has had all my attention over recent times but i also got the dream plate that was listed here for sale. for scale this thing is huge. but pre bay windows are also quite small vws also added the bottom of the caravan also added some strength across the roof, so now have three bars from side to side. it had been a while since picking up the welder and i had to put this up against the bench so i could stand on it, on top of a box As of yesterday i got some motivation and done some more work. Cut the side door in and then i added some braces to the caravan. old mate @Geophy came over to drop some steel over and i was like hey hold this. so i welded the base of the up rights for the door, then cut the center. needed the strop in the center so i could get the grinder in. another strop here in this welding action shot. this time holding the peace of steel up. This thing looks like a caravan now. pretty happy to see a door cut out in the side. i now need some right angle for the floor and need to put some triangle braces in some corners and im pretty keen to get some paint on it this month. getting pretty annoying in the shop.

Those aren't turbos!

I'm sure with a bit of digging we could find a good supplier on Ali. After all most of the legit brands probably come from there anyway.

Yes/No, I actually thought it would be a good way to size the system for cheap and then buy legit ones. The tapered threads on the Ali ones were that terrible, I doubt they would make a seal of any confidence

Some things are probably better bought from a legit supplier.

A dash is a 1/16th I think? So -4 AN is 1/4" I think

@kyteler could be keen. I was after a 5 spoke style in 15's to match my car but those MK-III's do look cool. I'll look into it tonight. I also have this nos Datsun 510 sss kit that I'm undecided if I'll build or just hold onto for a while.

Zinc blocks only work on things that are submerged.

Haha, cheers man. I’ve never been much good at bogging, so half the fun was learning how to mix and lay it again... The stuff I’m using doesn’t change colour when you add hardener, so I doubled down on hardener the first time and ended up with a streaky mess to deal with. Recent applications have been much nicer! Plus the sanding is basically cardio . Its getting there now - bit of filler primer and seam sealer done. Now it’s time to start applying filler to the other side and get the rest of the bay cleaned, sanded and primed for paint.

motor is still in bits.. been making progress but slow due to doing other stuff and trying to get the machinist to come in on and Saturday and help work on it. did some stuff last Saturday but couldn't assemble heads due to wrong valve stem seal but should be sorting that this sat its Actually quite depressing when ive spent more time working on it than ive ever driven it.

Yep, when it's carrying pressurized fuel or oil, I'd rather pay more for quality.

Yeah mate, they make all kinds of cool shit.

I yep all blew. and no that would just make it look like a smurf. black or silver wheels. plan is for blew tray. blast the back end and smash some blue on. but its winter so may just wire brush the base parts and squirt some black on till summer

From skimming forums for next to useless info a few years ago suggests about 300KW if you're not too much of a rough bastard. They're cheap enough though so break one and try again.

I can get a 1:1 scale for that

stupid rain. paints taking ages to dry. heaters on in shed. hope it drys in next couple of days. will bolt doors back on truck to paint the other side. will be cleaning the shed today me thinks

Got a couple of scooters that live outside in the rain, they keep getting that white powdery stuff covering all of the aluminium parts like carburettors and engine casings. Whats a decent way to stop that from occuring, doesnt look like they would last more than a few years without any sort of protection. There is no way to stop them getting wet

And this one I've lowered a scale 3 inches and dialed in a bit of camber front and rear. Need to find some suitable wheels for it. I still need to cut out the top of the wheel wells on the chassis piece so the wheels can turn.

Yea 1/24 aoshima and fujimi have the best range of jap classics. But ricks models do a range of resin kits too.. have seen monaros/falcons/rx2 coupe and Anglia 105e but gotta be fast on those ones lol Don't kill me but my first derby car 1993/94 was an 808 and brother in law did genuine tagged rx4 sedan both had piston motor for derby tho

Car passed cert today - awaiting Cert plate. You beauty

I buy them directly from Japan in bulk mate, heaps cheaper than local and huge variety of those JDM kits.. Look up https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/m/ they have a huge range and deliver to your door

Noice. Gurnard are the best. There's always something wrong / to be done on a boat so don't let that put you off.

Had issue after issue with getting this in the water. Life got in the way Had an afternoon free yesterday so decided to roll this out of the shed and give it a go Took a while to start but finally fired up with a smooth steady idle. Bundled up wife and three kids, launched the boat, found the first major issue - the gear selection was reversed. Put it in reverse to got forward spec. Motored out of napier harbour, put it in forward and disconnected the shift cable (throttle is limited in reverse), gave it some beans and found the second major issue It wont rev over 3000 rpm, not quite enough to get the boat on the plane. My gut feeling is that its way overpropped. I need to check that the throttles are opening fully, but i might just go and get another prop before i look into it much more. The prop on it looks very grabby, but has no pitch numbers to compare. The gear reversal can be easily fixed i think, instead of putting the cable onto the push lug i need to put it on the pull lug inside the control box. I was looking for an excuse to open up the control box anyway and attach a temp guage and warning LED's to the various sensor output wires in there. The good news is that the outboard is charging, starts and stops first pop, and is smooth and quiet We still motored out to spot x, and had a hour of good fishing, came home with 10 gurnard and some kahawai for smoking. The cats will be happy!

Sunday of productivity. Water pump back on, filled & warmed up. No leaky, no squeaky. Messed about with the front brakes but couldn't work out a way of fitting the new calipers without it turning into a fearsome bodge. I'll take the calipers & current flexies into the workshop tomorrow & make up some hard lines and brackets. Rear brakes went well though. Offered the shoes up and they looked good enough for a country job Everything fitted perfectly so I can confirm that 1971 Datsun 510 rear brakes are the the same as Hakos. Do with that information what you will.... Also done a vid. Really to demostrate the tappet rattle for comparison after I've adjusted them but it sounds like the cam's not bolted in. It's really not that bad. So that's about it, hopefully full braking will be restored by the end of tomorrow and then I might even give it a clean. Once I've adjusted the valves I'll give it the beans, I've been staying below 4 grand (mostly) because of the water pump but it really feels like it wants to pick up between 4 and 4,500. Thank you for your continuing interest.

So today I got cracked in the head buy a rampaging concrete drill as I was making a big hole is a wall. Got sent to the Doctor and he said go home an rest, but don't go to sleep. My standard mode set so if I stop and simply lounge around 8/10 times I will have a nap. So I decided to make a start on the truck. a set of fusion component speakers arrived this week. just 58 delivered of the tard. out with the old and in with the new. when j pulled the door panels off I found all but 2 clips wer missing or broken. luckily I brought a a bag random clips off ali. will be very handy. boring pic but I'm stoked the door is back togeather and the rattles are gone Got a cheap $30 radio offAli. Found a 24_12v reducer under the dash. good to have but the radio I got is 24v so pulled the reducer hoping it may stop my battery drain issues.

House is rented and I dont live there anymore sorry guys life got busy

Cert recheck today Passed the drive test and the 5x 100km brake test too. Let me tell you it was loving the fang today and performed spot on. It was the first time going over 50km haha so I had my beady eyes on the temp gauge The only remaining things to do are: 1) supply the alignment print out (repair cert person has this so will need another copy printed) 2) add 2 rear bump stops - ordering tomorrow from a George Stocks 3) tighten hand brake (this needs to be done for the compliance also) 4) the speedo is out 15-20km. I need to apply custom stickers to the speedo corresponding to the correct speed increments eg 120km is actually 100km Legal cruising is so close I can taste it.

RX4 steelies are on with a little taller white walls of 70 series vs the 65 on my previous steelies. Fouled the plugs this weekend and got brand new plugs. Will put more conservative jets in tomorrow and hopefully stops the plugs fouling. Ive drive It 10km EVER so I’m still feeling it out day by day.

Shit im slack Heres more build photos

Put a 50cc 5th wheel on it and register as a moped

oh hello. long time no posting we finally got the profile of the caravan cnc bent. borrowed old bad pennys work horse to get it done. pretty excited about the weeks to come now. just need reunion to be over with and get this thing rolling again. EXCITED!

When I saw the pic, I thought you'd bought a car trailer to convert into a caravan, but that was just to cart the steel

New member of the team:

Picked up a front panel last time I was in Palmerston North. I like it more than the one I'd made out of rectangle tube and alloy sheet. The standard gap is the perfect width for my radiator and air filter together. The plan is to install this panel with rivnuts and keep it as a removable piece. I'll need to add some steel to a few places and fill in a few holes.

A bit of further investigation shows no signs of stress on the underside or the valvetrain. This chunk obviously decided it'd had enough... But it's hard to know why. Also had this massive box arrive from Amazon: Which contained my new muffler. It's no wonder their shipping was so expensive! I chose this because it's 3". But also because my neighbour has the same on his K24A DC5 Integra and it sounds great. I've also got the matching 3" resonator that I'll probably make removable so it can be added if the car's too loud at Pukekohe etc.

Pulled the head off and will send the bottom end to the rebuilders this week. And I noticed this very strange bit of damage while inspecting the head: I have no idea how this would have happened, but there's a substantial piece missing from the face of the bucket. There's no signs of damage on any other buckets either. The cam appears to be fine aside from a small wear pattern visible in the above picture. I'll get a DTI onto it to make sure the cam is straight and will replace the bucket. Has anyone else ever seen this?

Everyone should have one of these. They make it super easy to get into tight spaces to clean up welds etc. They're on special for $99 at the Toolshed this month too. Got stuck into the engine bay with the powerfile and a flap disc. Still a bunch of finishing work to do, but the powerfile did an awesome job of the radius on this weld: Also bought myself a set of step drills. Their first job was to make the correct sized holes for the new engine mount threads: The nuts sit in there really nicely. It's a slight hammer fit to get them below/even with the surface and they can't drop any lower because the hole steps down as it gets deeper. The nuts need to be tigged in and tidied up, then that job's done.

Jason managed to turn my "buck" (read: bucket and piece of wood) into a part that will hold the filter and funnel air towards the air box. the filter fits like a glove! Test fitted with some big hose: Gave it a wash and a paint. I didn't want to sand it too much because I hate fibreglass dust and don't have any masks at home, so it can stay rough . The setup has turned out good enough for now. I'll re-visit everything next time the engine comes out.

Here's the "temporary" 150mm inlet that's made from 1mm aluminium and rivets. This will stay in there until I can be bothered remaking the whole front plate and collar from 2mm so it can be welded. And the bonnet is now a blank canvas:

Bit of black paint for the ducting. The fibreglass piece should be done this week, then there's only a couple of jobs to do before going racing!