Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 20/11/18 in all areas

  1. So time has finally come to find a place for my barely interesting, mildly entertaining diy thread. It is definitely old and I'm sure you have seen one dropping the kids off at school. Oldschool.co.nz it is. This car has slowly brought me back down to earth from my 'Big Plans' (What motorcycle engine?). Learning the basics outta my parents (now mine) garage and basically getting it back on the road. Born in 1968 she managed to escape the city grind and found her way to NZ shores, finally residing in Wellington and for many moons sitting in Continental Cars as a parts shelf, then up to find a comfy tarp to rest under plus get a healthy dose of fresh salt air in Waikanae. After convincing the elderly lady to relinquish it I began about slowly restoring it. (Learning as I went of course). Before I owned it anything further forward of the windscreen was chopped and shaped, suspension included. I'll post more about this further down the track. I'll post an original front so you get the idea. Annnd away we go.... Original front: Any Q's get at me
    13 points
  2. I scrubbed the underside, etched the bare metal and 2k primed the keyed areas a couple months ago. Managed to underseal 90% of it last night. Once I have finished making the appropriate alterations to the inner guard, I'll spray those and the front chassis. Not much fun with only axle stands for height. Mentally it's a good step towards getting finished. I'll fix up any bare areas later on though.
    9 points
  3. Finally I got my arse in gear and towed the old banger to my mates place. He's said I can take as long as I want but I'm aiming to get it done within 3 weeks. pics... Eastbound & down. Settled in nicely Slightly more holes than i first thought but still not too bad, Eviction notice served on headlamp bowl squatters. More updates on the way thick and fast, hopefully.
    5 points
  4. People can't even fit wheel nuts correctly. Requiring a cert for a pedal swap is completely justifiable IMO
    4 points
  5. Im keen on this Ill hit up couple of mates with 50s and bring trailer load down.
    4 points
  6. Couple of found items in support vehicle no.2. - 1 x can of monster energy drink, full - 2 x cans of diesel bourbon and cola, empty -1 x spring washer - 1 x nut (could possibly be paired with spring washer) - 1 x GN125h motorcycle, Red, slightly used. Pm me if you are missing any of the above.
    4 points
  7. And then this happened. Engine started rattling at idle while I was working on tune. Found some metal on top of the piston. Pulled the head and found it had dropped a hardened valve seat. Damage was very minimal due to it happening at idle. The engine had always been a heavy breather since I bought it so decided to freshen it all up. Bore was worn and was already at .60thou so I had it sonic tested and got it taken out to .90 thou. Crank was ok so fitted new bearings. Reused the Kent 234 camshaft as that was all ok. Fitted a NOS dual row timing chain. Had my worked cylinder head overhauled with new guides and hardened seats. Plus he opened up the ports a bit more. Currently almost all back together and ready to put in. Engine came back at 1690cc and 10:7 to 1 compression. Should go much better.
    4 points
  8. Haha the zuk already hits the limiter on most streets in Auckland One mate text me back saying hes in So got the street magic and a zoomer on the trailer so far
    3 points
  9. Nice. Proper 1592cc on top of a 1608cc gasket, cylinder 1 at left.$35 each so i ordered two 'just in case'. the fire rings on the front and rear cylinder were tapped by the pistons and the front coolant passage right above the water pump made the cylinder part of the cooling system Disconnected the things, lifted the head and swapped the gaskets, and soon enough back as per, but with lots of little things done tidier. Yeah looking good. No leaks no bubbles. Bit tappy but pretty sure its valve shims need doing and not rod knock based on my big screwdriver engine stethoscope Now the engine runs good (needs shims doing before going too far), lets check out the new clutch adjustment and feel the smooth action of that fresh low mileage gear box! Seriously, this thing. I dont even. All out AGAIN to swap the old gear box back on. Anyways, its all back together and back in the hole, (im getting pretty quick at this now!) but its gonna rain for the next few days (nearly out of tank water so thats good) so it can sit in the rain for a while, im pooped.
    3 points
  10. Also @sentra back up plan if slightly damp or certain cars cant make the upward part is to use the road to drive from lower gate back to top gate by garage indicated in red. Then slide down and around indicated in blue.
    2 points
  11. note to self, fibre glassing is a cunt of a job.
    2 points
  12. So lame needing a cert for fitting a factory brake pedal
    2 points
  13. You haven't had much luck with dicks crashing into you lately! May I suggest
    2 points
  14. Well its been awhile since parked this up. going home for Christmas, looking forward to dragging this out and finishing off some of the odd jobs left to do on it. also managed to find a full set of NOS mazda chrome hubcaps have been keeping an eye out for a set of these for such a long time pretty stoked to have found some. hoping to tidy up the interior when get back, re-cover the door cards and dash and maybe clean or paint the hood lining or replace it. also want to weld up the hole someone cut to put a head unit in the dash and then put the original stereo blank back in.
    2 points
  15. Yeah, i figured something like that, i haven't looked inside it (and probably wont!), but it kinda felt and sounded like those gears were spinning on the shaft or something. i had a cursory look before i installed it and it seemed clean/nothing obviously broken, which is the full extent of my gearbox checking/testing/fixing skillz, but i will look at the diagrams and see if i can get my head around it. Im glad the engine seems ok too, im hoping the tapping is just valve clearances and not something more serious from hydrolocking or something, but the bottom ends of these engines are very stout and i checked that #1 piston wasnt sitting lower than #4 at TDC for the most part i was just getting it running before adding coolant, and once it was and i added it, the starter laboured and would nae start (i thought flat battery initially) so hopefully no harm no foul apart from wasting a lot of oil, coolant, money and time...
    2 points
  16. Gimme gimme gimme. I'll do great things to it.
    2 points
  17. Hah no one wants the gn. Can't say I blame them
    2 points
  18. Great success on the water this weekend! Did a couple of laps around the bay, initially she was running rich so dropped the needle down in the carb. Power picked up a lot after leaning the mixture. Goes mint for a little engine, had three guys in the dinghy and towing two other guys in Kayaks, moved along ok. Went out to a fishing spot and caught a Kawai. Smoked it for dinner. Success.
    2 points
  19. Famous last words..... Was on my way 2 Ohope to kick off East Cape Ride when just before Edgecumbe it started to bog and die, clutched in and it stopped running. Whipped the exhaust off to be greeted with this sight again. (Interesting that it did almost 80kms of WOT before killing itself again which was the same kms it did when it killed the 1st BBK) AA roadside rescue/sharns thanks to @cletus and @RUNAMUCK got me to J5s place where I jumped on a loaner CT110 and delivered the post round the coast all weekend which was so sweet Whipped the head off at Johns to find a very chooched bore and piston plus a weird flame front burn mark on the combustion chamber, only getting complete burn on the front half of the head/same side as the exhaust port. 2T barry yarns have deducted that I cocked up the squish band when clearencing the head so the piston wouldnt hit it which is fucking with ignition turbulence so its not doing a complete burn- piston gets unevenly hot causing it to not be very round and digs itself into the bore causing the above. Cant do much except get myself in the dogbox by "spending more money on that bloody bike" so have a 3rd(and hopefully final) 70cc kit on the way from Germany plus found a 2nd hand un fucked with head in the UK which is also on its way via Youshop. Been going down the 2T rabbit hole on squish band setup so will actually measure it this time to get it right not just get a bit gungho on the dremel after a few Brianlownes and mexican cigarettes. In summary, 2 strokes are sweet when they are running but they dont like to run that much when I play with them
    2 points
  20. still progress is happening had a good look over the parts painted in primer and gave some bits a quick scuff then fired some gloss black on and painted the timing cover and oil filter housing And the same on the inlet manifold too also did the exhaust manifolds in high temp silver then gave the motor some loving Also when i stripped the motor i found this in the sump had to have a bit of a think to figure out where its from. but the sump also had plenty of rocks and dust collected in there too And the only reasoning why that was in the sump is that when the timing cover gasket was done in its past life that got put in along with rocks and dust as this part appears to be a small block chev rocker pivot ball for the valve train where as my motor factory run roller rockers so that part doesn't exist on my motor. so i also found a much easier way to do ford 2 piece rear main seals Remove all main caps but leave the conrod caps untouched then i used a gantry to slightly move the crank up which made sliding the bottom half of the seal around much easier. also placed some silicon where the two half's join as per seal manufacturers recommendation. and some on the top and bottom of the rear main cap side seals too. I then put a new oil pump on too seen as while im in there. then gave the motor a good wipe down and painted the motor. for this part i wanted the car to remain close to how it came from the factory and that has been pretty much for the whole car throughout the whole fix up process. plus that orange looked so shit so these fords of this era came out with black engines and either blue or gold rocker covers and air cleaner. cheers
    2 points
  21. Got the FA back from @Raizer and have set about finishing the last few jobs. It's now got a Technigas Next R pipe from a Suzuki Lets and a Keihin carb on a 90° adaptor to sit the carb away from the rear wheel. I made up a bracket to hold the spanny in place and threw on a filter from a box of parts. I've been testing it today and the thing is hilarious to ride. The 2 speed FS50 trans has always been geared up massively (because I fitted a 14" FA50 wheel), so it takes quite a bit of speed before it gets on the pipe... At the moment it starts to make power above 60kph, and is pretty slow below that . I'll fit heavier springs to both clutches and hopefully solve those issues. At the moment it shifts into 2nd gear at about 35kph... I need that to be closer to 60kph so it'll get on pipe in both gears. Regardless, it's pulling pretty well up top:
    2 points
  22. So....something awesome happened on Saturday. After more than 6yrs of ownership, I finally got to drive the coupe. I don’t think it’s moved under its own power since 1989... It’s super super super low, therefore the fronts need winding up a tad. a tune is needed too as it is clearly running rich. The clutch and brakes worked to plan and I can feel it has a load of grunt It’s nice to see it in the shed facing the other way for once and even nicer reversing it in like that. Now to button up the leaks and squeaks then I will look to book the cert inspection in at some stage. Cheers
    2 points
  23. my radiator was in good nick and cleaned, but was not good enough for my modified engine, temperature fluctuated all the time. You need to check the fan type too, as some are specified as being designed to blow, suck or both (both is usually the most common but worst type as it does neither job most efficiently)
    1 point
  24. Weather certainly isn't looking good for this event so far so stay posted as to whether it will be postponed to another date. Fingers crossed things slightly change in the sky for the week
    1 point
  25. Monthly update thing... New starter fitted, much better now. Heating is now too hot which is brilliant, thank gawd for quarter-lights. Spent most of today insulating, paneling and carpeting where the back seat should be. Looks ok but more importantly much quieter and I can put stuff back there now. /useless pic for thread Also, as mentioned elsewhere, I bought a buggy. It's been sat in a barn for years but it's mostly there. Or most of the buggy parts anyhow. /pics here coz not really worth starting a thread yet.
    1 point
  26. Peeled the 2ndry winding off an old isolating transformer and wound on an old HD jump start lead,
    1 point
  27. Track day on Friday went much the same as the last, with different problems. I had new brushes put in the alternator which solved my lack of charging. I had some overheating issues last time, if the gauge is correct. Was getting up around 95-100 degrees, so I cut the spring out of the thermostat and removed the innards, leaving just the body- I've heard that crossflows don't like having the thermostat housing empty? Anyway, it didn't fix my issues. Driving to the track was fine, sat around 81 degrees. As soon as I got on track it climbed to around 90 when I decided to call it quits on the first session and let it cool. Didn't boil though. Was quite a hot day and some other cars were having issues. I also put the old thermostat housing back on the engine as shown below. The radiator has its own cap but it is slightly lower than the head- my theory was that the air needs to escape at the highest point so it should be easier to bleed the air out? Maybe just wasn't bled properly as it was a rushed Thursday night job. Then the throttle linkage came off, nut must have shaken itself off- got towed in. Embarrassing but relatively easy fix. And then this happened Throttle cable broke at the pedal end. Towed in again. Then proceeded to the nearest bottle store and purchased the event organizers a box for the inconvenience. So that was the end of the day. Pulled through the block on the accelerator pedal. So I wound the idle up, tied a knot in the cable, put a zip tie on it so I didn't cut my hand up, and drove home with a hand throttle. There were a lot of helpful people at the track, giving advice and offering to try and help solve issues, maybe some are members on here, if so, I thank you. Any thoughts on the overheating issue would be appreciated/ what temp should it be running. It has a near new Honda alloy radiator, electric fan, have put descaling solution through the cooling system recently and refilled with good coolant mix. One day I will get a decent lap in... Discussion/ advice welcomed
    1 point
  28. We can certainly make something happen in Jan. Ideas here on a postcard. Would be good to do a run somewhere, maybe with a camp over night. Make most of long summer evenings.
    1 point
  29. We left some beers behind on purpose. Felt like we should have left more for you GC organisers
    1 point
  30. There's heaps of information online with some pretty good rules of thumb to follow. I basically use these to get attributes I'm looking for i.e. low end, or mid range, or top end. Hard hitting...or soft but wide power band etc... I've tried a couple excel spreadsheets/calculators that I found on websites. They require very specific information, so only good if you've got all your port timings and areas recorded etc...which you'd have if tearing down and porting the motor anyway. But no good if you don't know the numbers. The design it popped out wasn't all that good, so I added more mid area into the pipe based purely on an assumption (It just didn't look right to me) and instantly gained a huge improvement! So like with everything online...take it with a grain of salt. I guess I like to experiment, and build a basic knowledge by actually making and trying things out for myself. Trying to learn along the way from both successes and failures. I'd call this an epic fail (red goped pictured above). I brought a tuned pipe for this motor...made to fit in an RC car. Had good reviews online, but wasn't very impressive. I ended up making my own and trashing the store brought tuned pipe...and the difference was night and day! My pipe turned it's performance from "sad"...to "wild"!!! So I learnt that even when you pay good money for a "tuned pipe" built for a specific application, it's still very hit and miss what you'll actually get. These pipes all added huge improvements over a stock muffler. I'm sure there's a better design and/or way of doing this for all of them, but the results have been well worth the effort in terms of power increases obtained. Not just little improvements...massive power gains.
    1 point
  31. Housings back and the Detroit Tru trac is all locked in.
    1 point
  32. This 1912 Lister powers my off grid house in winter. I've since plumbed in a 10 meter exhaust to outside which means I only hear the rhythmic clanking of the valve train and flywheels. It runs a tractor/drag racing alternator then goes through a sterling 3 stage charge regulator to my house batteries. Runs on 850ml of fuel an hour and the longest I have had it run was 24 hours straight with zero dramas.
    1 point
  33. A boat builder gave me this tip..cover areas you don’t want the epoxy to stick to with packing tape..then to get the gap you want use the foam stripping that you put around windows to stop drafts in the gap and cover with tape again. then it’s ready to epoxy over.
    1 point
  34. Chassis will be away next week so thought I’d make a start on sorting out the bonnet
    1 point
  35. Nah, its one I used to race in the mid/late 80's. It wasn't Rendles one. Didn't his one have strut's? I can't remember, but one of those HB's racing around then was running them. I remember it had its front wheels tucked right in/under. This one still had the OEM Viva frontend fitted. I got it from a guy in Wanga's. It was colored red when i bought it. Fitted the Cheb from out of my Monaro. At one time, the car was run by the Miller's (from out of Masterton I think) and originally built by HESKETT. I raced at Thunder Park when I could afford to get up there. Sold it at the end of the 80's, and the Monaro (fuck) and the Statesman to raise a deposit to get into our first house. It went up to Auckland. Seeing your build has brought back memories of being young fit and broke, lol. Check out those center squirters I still have one of those Holley Blue regulators. Its going on a dirty old rat I have. I posted these pics in another post on here to do with Viva's a few months ago. Goodluck with your build.
    1 point
  36. Here’s my shifter. its an early b&m 60 series. bought it off eBay for $90 us and restored it. these things are getting real expensive now because of the nostalgia gasser racing
    1 point
  37. yesterday we managed to get the motor back in the ute, ran it up to temp and took it on a few test runs, it goes well and ticks over nicely and most importantly no smoke! it started up really easy, wound it over until the oil light went out, then it fired up, adjusted up the timing and it idles nice and drives well. the ute has so many rattles from having no door rubbers on and need to sort out the tailgate latches to go tight, but pretty stoked its finally good to use need to take it for a good drive then re-torque head and check valve lash, then its on to doing the little jobs to tidy it up
    1 point
  38. motors starting to look the part, new water pump and timing belt kit, ditched the belt covers. need to finish cleaning and painting the rest of the brackets/pulleys/inlet and alternator ect, also need to work out how to mount the coils on new rocker cover. hopefully pull out the old motor this weekend
    1 point
  39. The roof was long boarded down and any imperfections were sorted out. Also seam sealed the two edges where the roof panel meets the sides. This is the rear corner looking over the roof. Sprayed on the final primer, dried very quickly but was able to keep it wet and glossy. Looking very straight now.
    1 point
  40. Have been going pretty hard the last month. Last panel to line up was the drivers guard. Once we were happy with this we were able to shape the drivers side, along with the passenger side, front valance and rear panel below the doors. A really long week finishing bits and pieces so i could splash some primer on it in the weekend. Started Sunday morning looking like so 3 or so coats of high build epoxy primer later Really happy with how it went, no runs or sags etc. Looks pretty straight. Few things to fix up but stoked with how it looks. Nice and glossy. Put some guide coat through the gun to finish it.
    1 point
This leaderboard is set to Auckland/GMT+12:00
  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up
×
×
  • Create New...