kiwisurf

If its been sitting you might just need to go and get them nice and warm. We used to get a lot of cars fail at the testing station (mostly rear drums) that we would just go for a drive and get the brakes hot and they would pass straight away. Of course you may have an issue but most likely a sticky slide.

We used to replace 100's of the resistors on those Mazda's when I did my time. But generally they would only work on a single speed if at all when they were faulty. Have you tried mazda to see if they have them new still?

For sure it will be the fuel pressure at fault. Try these guys as its where I got my carb setup: http://www.bikebusters.co.nz/

Dream car...now you have made me mess my pants.

Saw it at the Brit and Euro show....Its just as sweet in person.

Are you sure its carb related? Have you sprayed some Engine start in the carb?

As above 90oC is not that hot. Remember water boils at 100oC at sea level. Add the radiator cap to increase the pressure and the anti boil properties of coolant and the boiling point is going to be somewhere around 137oC.

And then this happened. Engine started rattling at idle while I was working on tune. Found some metal on top of the piston. Pulled the head and found it had dropped a hardened valve seat. Damage was very minimal due to it happening at idle. The engine had always been a heavy breather since I bought it so decided to freshen it all up. Bore was worn and was already at .60thou so I had it sonic tested and got it taken out to .90 thou. Crank was ok so fitted new bearings. Reused the Kent 234 camshaft as that was all ok. Fitted a NOS dual row timing chain. Had my worked cylinder head overhauled with new guides and hardened seats. Plus he opened up the ports a bit more. Currently almost all back together and ready to put in. Engine came back at 1690cc and 10:7 to 1 compression. Should go much better.

Another long time between updates. Have been driving and enjoying the car mostly. Put a set of Wilwood Dynalite calipers and vented rotor s that I picked up 2nd hand. Installed a driveshaft loop to be prepared for the eventual low volume.

Can you build something else straight away please.....been my favorite build to follow on here and now its going to come to an end.

Fuel pressure is critical. Easy way around it is to use the fuel pump of the matching bike. They are high flow, low pressure and pressure switch automatically.

http://danstengineering.co.uk/ Have a read on that site mate. I'm running Keihen CVK's of a ZZR600 on my 1600 Escort. That's kind of the recommended bike size for that engine capacity. Guys running 2lt pintos generally use the bigger carbs off a 1000cc bike such as a R1. PM me if you want any more info. Mine runs way better than it did on the Weber downdraft originally. Is going to be Dyno tuned tomorrow so I should have a good idea oj just how good it is after that.

Been a long time since my last post. Slowly chipping away at the car. PCV bypass and catch can fitted. New cooling system with big alloy radiator and electric fan and controller. Alloy rocker cover. Bike carb manifold finished and bike carbs fitted and running. Rev counter dash fitted. I'm currently playing round with the tune on the carbs as I want to get it as close as possible, then give the engine a freshen up before sending it for a dyno tune. I have a wideband AFR so I have been playing with jetting and mixtures. Its not bad and a big improvement on the dog of a down draft that was on it....idle is so smooth now.

Been busy doing a type 9 5 speed upgrade for the last 2 weeks. Cut the gearboot ring off. Cut a hole for the new shifter position. Then added a patch to fill the old hole. I bought a gearbox x member from retro Ford in the UK as well as a short shifter but I've had to cut the x member a bit to clear the gearbox which I'm not happy about. The factory mounting hole s for the standard x member had to be removed as well.

The 1300 also had a much lighter flywheel so that went on at the same time.