kiwisurf

I have the same steering wheel but not the Springalex badge. Did it come with it? If not where did you get it?

Talk to Jai from Electronic ignitions and retro car parts (facebook). NZ supplier of Accuspark. He will sort you out.

I modified my dizzy to sort a similar issue but to do it again I would either buy a pre modified one from Burton or a tuneable 1 from 123ignition.com. The Bluetooth mapable ones look awesome. Mine makes 115hp at the wheels with similar spec to yours but Kent 234 cam and bike carb setup.

That power figure is good for a downdraft webber....and you can always look at sidedrafts in the future to really get it cranking.

Trojan Wheel Studs. I use Auto Trail in Hamilton. Show them what you want and they will have a stud to suit. You may have to drill the hub to fit a larger flange size but the Trojan book will tell you the size drill bit to use. I just did my MK2 escort this way. And yes it can be a cert requirement if your not getting enough turns out of your wheel nuts. And this conversation could be totally taken the wrong way if read wrong!!!

So another long time without updating. Got the motor in and tuned. Makes 115hp at the wheels and runs great. Broke a rocker shaft...Just put a spare one in for now and have not had a problem but may have to upgrade at some point. Did a grasskahna and a track "cruise" And just been using it on nice days as much as possible. I'll sort out some photos and show some of the more recent changes soon.

If its been sitting you might just need to go and get them nice and warm. We used to get a lot of cars fail at the testing station (mostly rear drums) that we would just go for a drive and get the brakes hot and they would pass straight away. Of course you may have an issue but most likely a sticky slide.

We used to replace 100's of the resistors on those Mazda's when I did my time. But generally they would only work on a single speed if at all when they were faulty. Have you tried mazda to see if they have them new still?

For sure it will be the fuel pressure at fault. Try these guys as its where I got my carb setup: http://www.bikebusters.co.nz/

Dream car...now you have made me mess my pants.

Saw it at the Brit and Euro show....Its just as sweet in person.

Are you sure its carb related? Have you sprayed some Engine start in the carb?

As above 90oC is not that hot. Remember water boils at 100oC at sea level. Add the radiator cap to increase the pressure and the anti boil properties of coolant and the boiling point is going to be somewhere around 137oC.

And then this happened. Engine started rattling at idle while I was working on tune. Found some metal on top of the piston. Pulled the head and found it had dropped a hardened valve seat. Damage was very minimal due to it happening at idle. The engine had always been a heavy breather since I bought it so decided to freshen it all up. Bore was worn and was already at .60thou so I had it sonic tested and got it taken out to .90 thou. Crank was ok so fitted new bearings. Reused the Kent 234 camshaft as that was all ok. Fitted a NOS dual row timing chain. Had my worked cylinder head overhauled with new guides and hardened seats. Plus he opened up the ports a bit more. Currently almost all back together and ready to put in. Engine came back at 1690cc and 10:7 to 1 compression. Should go much better.

Another long time between updates. Have been driving and enjoying the car mostly. Put a set of Wilwood Dynalite calipers and vented rotor s that I picked up 2nd hand. Installed a driveshaft loop to be prepared for the eventual low volume.