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2 nights of careful painfully slow welding and grinding and i have a warpfree panel in place. Welded it on the inside as its a flat surface compared to the channel on the outside, this made for easier grinding. Hit it with the flap disk, quite stoked with the result. Patience paid off. Will give it a coat of 2k primer and a skim of nuetech tomorrow welded from the inside Outside

up the hills? bummed we missed bike fun last year but the alpine jaunt was fuckin amazing. so amazing we were in/near a sunglasses commercial amazing.

All youse fullas, just remember who the true pioneers are and who went there last year and made it famous! You know who you are.

you'll look like a bomber strapped with C4 bricks or a photographer when they were tradesmen who carried film, not hipsters with cold ankles

Thought i better start a project thread for my latest toy... Its a 1980 Series 1 RX7 SA22C Brought it off one of my mates who has owned for 6+ years, he had lost interest in the car scene Has barely seen the road in the 6 years that he has owned it..so i plan to changed that Brought the car on Saturday with a non working clutch, luckily we live right next door to each other so just pushed it over.. Washed of the thick layer of dust and gave it a vacuum to see what i was working, over all its in pretty good condition, few little pieces missing but the important parts are there... Found a little bit of rust in the doors and some surface rust in other places but nothing to major... Ended up fixing the clutch on the Sunday, charged the battery and went for a spin last night..reminds me of a hopped up 2 stroke dirt bike (Cars running a 12a J-port) Need to do a few things for a WOF Bleed Brakes Fix some rust Buy some bulbs Hope for the best Discussion //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/44345-d1rty6s-1980-rx7-rice-rocket/

Its all back together now, the girlfriend and I managed to put it in easy as, didnt take long at all. all brakes and clutch bleed. radiator filled and a fresh battery thrown in. Took a bit to get started but now she starts up mint first time everytime, just cold start idle seems to be a little iffy. Also had to put that gay pod filter on because misplaced the other filter and it runs a bit shitter with no filter. Other than that havent taken it for a drive yet but been up and down the drive a bit. Had trouble getting into second gear but that seems to be a linkage needing a little adjustment because if you pull a bit further back than where you want to go and then let it recenter you can select it but going straight from first to second its a bit of a maybe if its going to line up. Anyway tidied up all the sills which only had a bit of light surface face with is pretty sweet now I just have to weld a few patches of rust then take it for a wof. Heres some pick. Lovely air filter setup Put the carbs in to see how they fit. Looks like need to redesign heater box and put battery somewhere else.

Hes going to be ok, was actually on a motorbike. We did have a major vertical quad bike roll over that could have ended very differently.

Yeah I was thinking a convoy into the barron lands in our low cars would be quite lush. could probably do it after lunch before going to the pools for the evening

Thanks, Karl. Team Marlboro jacket assemble!

Went for a ride

Mez showed up today.

Sounds like your car is a lemon........ Anywho, back on topic. I have been told that using that ether crap is really bad for the engine? Apparently they get addicted to it after it damages them.

^ good man. driving it like it's meant to I guess long as you're not just chooching round in high gear carboning everythign up. it'd have to be pretty bad to make it that had to start

Good idea!!!! Clean that pretty regularly. I don't fang it like Fangio but I ain't no old nana in my commute either. Pretty standard driving and I get the Maupuia hill to haul ass up at the end of each day and weekly workout on Brooklyn hill. Plus a fairly regular tripper up Ngaio gorge. So I wouldn't consider my driving as being sedate but definitely not thrashing spec either.

check the glowplugs are getting power! could've popped a slowblow fuse type thing or something. also, check all your earths and cleanliness/tighness of your positive leads in case the pump fuel cutoff solenoid isn't getting a good voltage when cranking. usually when you get air in the system, when it finally starts they will sometimes blow heaps of white smoke and miss and fart around etc but not all vehicles are the same. if it's getting a good supply of fuel/enough to fire the injectors whilst cranking for like 10 seconds or so (pointing to a glowplug fault/nothing to do with pump electrics or fuelling) then it'll chooch a huge cloud of very grey/white when it finally fires up. smoke isn't the best way to diagnose a starting fault though i guess. checked your air filter lately? maybe unrelated but it might be trying to suck itself inside out and starving the old girl a bit. as always, back to basics. fuel treatment, check all connections & fit your new glow plugs, then new filter/fit that other filter head and new rubber lines. all else fails then fuel pump/compression. hah. during the commute, do you nana it hardout or do you give it some beeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaannnnnnnnnnnnnnnnsssssss?? diesels love getting some decent heat into them and I've often noticed on the diesels I've owned that they get pretty yuck (esp precomp spec) if you drive them like an old woman. need some badass WOT chooch up the ngauranga and shit.

doesn't sound like bug if it runs dope once it's sorted itself out. has it still got the stock PSA outborad motor style bleed pump? like this. I know it say lucas but the bosch ones have these too AFAIK. they're pooze. ditch all that shit and get a filter head from a hiace/hilux/estima diesel (z252x) or a mitsi L200/L300 (z271) and it'll be mint and cheaper filters too. that plus some new rubber lines will see it fairly well sorted I reckon. Not many people service the fuel fitlers on diesels nearly enough either. we have pooze diesel and you should really do them every 10-15k IMO it sounds like air ingress and when it's sitting (esp depending on which direction it's facing - up or downhill) it's letting air into the fuel lines and when you try to fire it up it has to suck the air bubble out through the lift pump before it'll chooch you any deez out your squirters. When you were trying to fire it up at my pad the other day when I was puking my brains out I was thinking 'holy shit that thing's got a guts full of air' as it wound and wound for ages lolz. You'll know if it's not firing due to shitty glow plugs coz it'll chooch a huge white cloud while you're cranking. it probably wouldn't hurt to chuck a fuel treatment through it too. If you gassed up at the diesel pump in stratford you'll be sweet.

Thanks bud but I've already ordered some of the stuff Yowzer recommended and grabbing it on my way home tonight. In my mind I think it is deeper than diesel bug but I'm going to give it a dose anyhow because it can't hurt.

Sounds similar to the symptoms you get with air leaks, I have had this a few times on things like Navara's, once they warm up they're mint, the fuel lines go hard and brittle and open up around fittings and suck air instead of fuel. Being a Citroen it probably has that weird plastic supply hose. Try hand priming it if it still has one of those squeeze pumps before starting it next and see whether that makes a difference. But the surging over 3/4 Throttle doesn't really coincide with this thought, I am also not a diesel mechanic.

If you're worried about diesel snot, do you want me to bring you a bottle of that Wynn's diesel treatment snake oil tonight since I'm coming straight from work?

Money paid Ferry booked Max excite

Ah OK. Check the filter for deez bug too. The fuel set will kill it off if it's there but you'll still need to blast the lines out.

Get some Fuel Set from BNT, that shit is great. Wack a full dose in the tank, and wack a bit straight in the new fuel filter when you change it too. What year is it? EFI, common rail? If it's OBD hook a scan tool up to it and check codes, MAF sensors (if it has one) like to fail or get dirty and read all up the shit which will cause shitty fueling issues. EGR systems also foul up and cause shit. Threebond makes those intake sprays that clean the crud out.

PS retep. the black magic joke should be taken with a grain of salt. im sure you've done your fair share of research, and come across all the people that are just adamant they will never work on a car/don't understand how carbs work. and it generally slows down the spread of the conversion over tried and tested webbers/dells cheers for the confirmation guys, and i shall update my project thread soon with the last little bits before wof and i might even be able to bring it for a hoon to hanmer

... but the bean counters made them use the 1800's doors , hence the looong wheelbase. They also shoe-horned the silky smooth 2.2l 6-cylinder version of the OHC Maxi engine into the 1800 and Princess - now that would have made the Maxi fly... The Maxi looks good lowered a tad, with some wheels that fill the arches better (imho). Nothing wrong with a quick Allegro - the UK got the 1750 twin carb engine, and BL eventually sorted the ride and handling (although too late, as usual ). A mate had one with a warmer cam for commuting from Chch to Lincoln Uni, back in the '80s. Ate Escorts for breakfast . A KV6 from a Rover 75 would have made an interesting transplant in the Maxi - an Austin Rover parts bin special.

That's the place! Ye olde hangover brunch spot. I'll be at a loose end in Kilbirnie from 5pm if anyone is around.

Time to get the sills sorted!

left this outside in the rain over night. jumped in it the next day and my feet got wet. I found that there was water pooled in the ribs in the floor pans. and the rear compartment was quite wet too. Luckily it doesnt have carpet in it so I sponged that out. and went hunting for the cause of the leak. Picture so I remember what it looked like. I started removing parts of the dash to get a better look at the point of the leak, and it appears that the little bit of rust that I saw when i was looking at the van under the dash is leaking. So I pulled the rest of the dash out for access for repairs. As you can see Its pretty much all there and is relatively tidy, but still needs a bit of tlc as its all covered in a layer of dust. I dont think its been apart since 1979 due to the amount of dust and general yuckness behind all this. the top of the glove box for example was about a centimeter thick. Ive got a couple of spare bits stashed away that I was saving for the ute, but the vans priority right now as im thinking about flicking the ute to get some funds. (Mexican blanket is on seat because seat is split and worn out) Also, whats the point of a panel van with out showing off the 'entertainment' area It doesnt look very entertaining though does it? Dont worry, that will be changed. All the yuck carpet that is glued to the walls and roof will be removed. Same with the yuck headlining. Too much builders van SO MUCH ROOM FOR ACTIVITIES

Oh wow, who are we gonna be spooning?

A weekend of progress! IMG_9539 by Richard Opie, on Flickr Diff fit tested, all the links fit up without drama and it moves freely throughout the full range of movement. IMG_9510 by Richard Opie, on Flickr I between times, I acquired some platforms and springs for the rear. Springs are typical 65mm ID coils, length of 180mm and 200lb/in spring rate. IMG_9550 by Richard Opie, on Flickr The axles returned from the engineers with fresh new splines cut and have also been induction hardened to hopefully negate any chance of munching up splines due to the mighty torque produced by a 4AGE. IMG_9578 by Richard Opie, on Flickr With help again from the masterful sheepers and his magical machine that glues metal together, the next task was to create somewhere for the spring platforms to live on top of the diff housing. This shot shows the rough platform tacked in place so we could work out the right angle to mount it on the diff, due to the movement of the diff being in an arc as opposed to simply up and down. If the platform is angled too far forwards or backwards you run the risk of the threaded section clashing with the coil. IMG_9604 by Richard Opie, on Flickr After much trial and error (which is boring and not worth taking photos of), the mount location was finalised and the mounts welded into position for good. Side bracing ensures they're solid as hell and up to certifier satisfaction. I will point out here I couldn't have done this without the help of sheepers, being able to chop pieces up with an angle grinder isn't conducive to finishing a project within a project like this and without the welding and lateral thinking skills of the man with many Toyota's I'd still be sitting around talking about doing this. IMG_9588 by Richard Opie, on Flickr IMG_9586 by Richard Opie, on Flickr Final couple of shots show roughly the final ride height, the diff is resting on the jack with the weight of the car on it, with the wheel centers in line with the ends of the diff. Not super low, but I'm happy. Easily able to go lower with a simple spring change. Next up - reconditioning the brake calipers, acid dip and painting of diff housing and setting up the LSD in the carrier again for final assembly!

FINALLY (AFTER 5+ YEARS) THE 86 AND I MADE IT BACK TO THE TRACK. Was a splendid day, had soooooo much fun, made even better by the abundance of other OS members racing. Managed to equal my PB around track two, 1:24, which i'm happy with after quite a long absence. The goal I have set myself is 1:22, not sure if its doable, but will have fun trying. Didn't crash and nothing broke, so counting the outing as a success. The diff acquired a hell of a whine late in the day, which rears its ugly head under light load/normal driving, which was a real cunt on the two hour drive home. Will pop it out and see whats happened, and have a backlash against the backlash. Cant wait to get back on track. Regards, VG. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/25550-vintage-grumbles-ae86/page-19

Cleaner but shows up the cunt