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High chance I can make this and will confirm.

If you want a contact that has alot to do with barras in jetboats, he has installed ALOT and setup as raceboats and marathons etc. autosprky and very switched on fella. just dont be one of those guys that just ring him and suck dry on info info not buy stuff him LOL.

electronic pedal in a jetboat? barra tb has it as standard, and the old mechanical arrangement is absolutely rubbish,

Looking at the lvvta chip lookup page the cert is registered to the vin not the plate, my plate isn't even listed under vehicle details.

That’s why it also has the vin number on the tag

What's the go when a car with a cert gets new numberplates? Not when the plates it had when it got the cert have lapsed but if it gets changed to/from a personalised plate. Saw a car on the tard this morning that has a cert for seatbelt mounts but the personalised plate rego on the cert plate doesn't match the personalised plates on the car. The ad goes on to say that the plates on the car don't go with it and that it will have a standard issue plate at time of sale. Is the cert still legal or does it technically need to be redone with the new rego number even if nothing else has been changed?

It's not legal to do anything other than clean them with soap and water

How legal is it to “resto” my old white license plates rather than pay to get them re-made with the new font white plates? by resto I mean colour match the metallic grey-white colour and respray it with the numbers Matty B. It doesn’t have the security watermark thingy. already hammered out a lot of the dents, feeling like a bit of a Barry now.

Cool. I've just made a 'acme mount jig 2000', got my 5mm base plates bolted in and will pop to town for some 4mm plate.

I've assumed the 'ding hotel?

Oooh, that one is interesting, the cylinder being shorter than the res might help too, coz the main interference is the end of the cylinder vs the rocker cover (now I'm questioning if I can modify the rocker cover)

Don't drive with the handbrake on and you'll be fine

Nope, there's no minimum thickness, the design of the mount bracket is more important IMO than thickness. 4mm would be fine if the design is right. Even 'reputable' manufacturers get the design bit wrong...

@cletus Is there a minimum thickness of steel required for engine mounts - the parts that bolt to the engine. I've made mine from 3mm steel and but for adding an extra gusset they are finished. I don't see them failing (each one carries circa 50kg static weight) However I have started making a new pair, mainly so I can move the bobbins and cross member away from the engine by another 5mm so avoiding any chance of annoying knocks on bumpy roads. The base that bolts to the engine is 5mm. But to build the rest in 5mm will be tricky and I feel total over kill. Will 4mm be OK. It's thicker steel than I've seen on most oem mounts. Ive looked on the lvvta site and can only find this.. Nothing about minimum thickness? An engine-mounting system in a low volume vehicle must be of good design and construction, must position and support the engine correctly, and must be securely attached.

For a change of pace I am doing some bodywork. After the louvre pressing the bonnet was in a bit of a state from previous paintjobs so it required a fair bit of work. It's presently in the first coat of primer so I'll give it a bit of a tickle with some sandpaper before doing a final coat of primer. This first coat will just make it easier for me to see where needs more work. Also dug out the spare GT lid I've been hoarding which will help the rear radiator get some much needed air.

@Adoom, is this of any use to you? Do we need to confirm the longitudinal dimension?

Shit yeah beave! Saw this on marketplace. Even though small bikes are so punishing, there is some amazing charm about them. I've got a few a100 donks in stock if you need when the time comes. Also, you don't want the RD back do you? hah, it really doesn't like Broadmeadows hill! Haha.

Crappy idle and suspicious fuel delivery issues... Have you had the injectors cleaned and flow checked? Especially likely in old cars with rusty fuel tanks that have probably eaten a lot of stale fuel. And impossible to figure out if you don't have an o2 sensor measuring fuel trims

Maybe if I possessed one. I could buy one and insert it here with the appropriate tee piece, but the normal-looking Jaguar fuel fittings probably have some horrible thread pitch.

@Kelvin sorry just saw your post, yeah bought the wheels from minispares in the uk. Weren’t the cheapest wheels to buy but they look bloody nice.

Yea I'll give it a test, clean contacts etc. Yes as a cut off. However I have a new relay on order that will work off the coil signal.

Won't have an oldschool vehicle running but we will be showing up this year. Yes I know, shock horror!

Fiiiine Doug's happy 4x4 key arrived before the weekend, fortunately. We put it somewhere safe until it was time to crack back into things. It is indeed 4x4mm on the dot and has a fair bit of length for me to play with. I gave it a quick test when i got it to see how it fit, and it seems to be as people on the interwebs describe it should be - firm, but no need to tap it in, and no play. I tidied up one end, cut it to length and tidied the other. Fits gud! This let us complete the timing chain, but not before a bunch of thinking to make sure that the chain links were 100% where they should be. I'd rotated the crank twice with the plastic key when verifying everything, so the chain marks had moved on. Nothing some link counting doesn't solve! The oil pump/chain case goes on next. The bolts were a bit manky so I tidied them up, We schmooe'd the edges and this one little bolt hole in the middle, Girlface lubed up, Then we increased how much the engine looks like an engine by at least 15%. This also completed the water pump job, as the final bolt goes through to the block. The next morning it was time to tackle the crank pulley. I cracked out some iron and some old bolts to hand-fashion a special tool to hold the crank in place. At about 30 degrees (out of the 70 desired) it was clear that this wasn't quite enough. It's times like these I wish I had a welder, and the knowledge to use it. But I don't so... I hammered it back to straight, tapped it into the pulley for extra seating, notched the bar (weakening it further but what can you do) to allow the socket to still fit and then found an old socket to sit on one of the bolts to provide some rigidity against the other side of the bar. It barely worked, but it worked. Nextly is the cover, with a nice shiny new gasket and two tiny blobs of permatex where the oil case cover meets the head. While I was at it I spent some time removing that shitty aluminium tape on the cover, and some copper tape on the oil cap - both still present in the picture below. I don't know what it was for. I think the previous owner was genuinely mad. Then, since I don't like open holes, I cracked out the new spark plugs I'd been procrastinating installing back when I got the car. The gap spec is 0.7-0.8mm. They were pretty good out of the box, but some very light taps (mild drops, really) on the anvil got them all a little better. I put them in and followed up with cleaned and dialectric greased coils. The oil pressure switch called for a certain torque that I couldn't provide, thanks to its 24mm socket size and my lack of anything deep enough for that. So girlface and I cracked out the maths to figure out how to torque it using a socket wrench attached to a torque wrench. One of the scary things here is that it doesn't seat all the way into the block, there are exposed threads, so if you were a visual person you'd just send it and break something. Really glad I held back. Then we came back and swapped torque wrenches post-maths. It was at spec already. Calling it good ... Things started getting on so kind of skipped a few photos. - Got the water pump pulley on. - Alternator's in there too baybee - Mulled over why there's an empty hole in the case that doesn't seem to have a purpose. Decided it was always empty. - Got the idler pulley and tensioner on and situated, ready for belt. - Wondered why we never ordered a new belt.

https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/574825/how-do-i-use-a-12v-led-indicator-light-for-an-alternator-i-have-seen-some-on-t No doubt with your googling you will have seen something like the info in the above link, and you know to ditch the LED and fit a filament lamp. Also as a temp trial remove fuel pump line and power from ign switch. Is fuel pump fed from here as a protection should engine stop with ign on? As in a crash?

Battery voltage should be measured at least half an hour after they’ve been taken off charge. You’ll always get an artificially high number otherwise. 12.7 is a perfectly normal voltage for a decent lead acid battery in good, fully charged condition. 13v is still normal range but high end. Some modern battery chemistries do seem to give higher resting voltage. Those kind of voltages will not harm your starter. Hell, they’ll generally survive 24v - for a while. Could just be the solenoid contacts are shot. Maybe accessible to clean up. Otherwise motor has problems. Hopefully nothing worse that worn/stuck brushes.