Gee's 68 Mustang chat

[Gee]

It's not exactly 'weld porn' but seems ok from what I could see. The car is probably stock height unless the rear springs are lowered. They are still at the stock eye setting and no blocks. It was a lot lower though as the guards are rolled and the sidewall damage would not happen at its current height. 

[Otodat]

Yes, this is what I'm getting at, the may have altered the driveshaft for max slam, also a bent driveshaft from being slammed and hitting a judder bar or even the body itself will cause severe vibration 

[cletus]

Yeah that drive shaft is terrible 

It shouldn't have that extra piece welded in , also there's some weirdness on the front yoke, some of it looks like it's been ground off? There's not much material around the bearing cup 

 

Russell @ driveshaft specialists in east tamaki is a good guy for sorting out issues with driveshafts

 

 

[CUL8R]

14x7 - JJ is just the bead type (irrelevant for pretty much everyone)

ET is what you're looking for, but I suspect that would be stamped in the rim itself.

Those rear tyres are old as the hills, they had discontinued those Firehawks at least 12-15 years ago.. There would be either a 3 digit number on the sidewall (pre 2000) or 4 digit number. First two digits are the month, last digit or two digits are the year. 

To note, the date stamp is only on one side of the sidewall. So I'd expect your fronts to be something along these lines ; 2718 (27th week of 2018) , and rears to be perhaps 498 (49th week of 1998) 

[Gee]

I found the JJ explanation just after I posted it. Doesn't really matter but good info. The car sat for a long time and the damage was caused when it was lower I assume so not surprised they are that old. Bit of cracking as well so need new ones.

I'll have to look at the drive shaft. I think it is a replacement after the first one shit the bed but who knows where they got it.

[piazzanoob]

for trans fluid use type f like you said 

as type f is basically a trans fluid with no additives for like friction modifying etc. great fluid for old type transmissions. 

but any old texron 3 will also be fine for a c4 or trans of same era. 

and for the steering ram there not too hard to do yourself if you are mechanically minded. if you want pics i did the one in my galaxie build thread.

also driveshaft looks abit dodgy i would also pull it out and send to russell @ driveshaft specialists

[Gee]

Can anyone recommend a driveshaft guy out west? It is a bit of a hike for me to take a shaft east during work hours.

My other thing is I can sense some scope creep coming on. If I remove the shaft I'm going to dump a bunch of fluid so I may as well yank the trans and fix the leak and service it. While it is out of the way I'd like to fix the floor damage even though it is really only cosmetic. I also want an overdrive gear somehow eventually which would need a shortened driveshaft.... I'd prefer to limp along for a bit till I can do it all but I have a feeling one driveshaft has let go in the past and I have seen videos of driveshafts destroying trans output housings... Sometimes you shouldn't look too hard.

[Nominal]

Scope creep limitation device

ToolPRO Gearbox Stop Off Tool | Supercheap Auto New Zealand

 

[Sunbeam]

Been there. I backed my Fiat into the bullbar of my quad. Did a bit more damage than you’ve done. Uninsured too because it’s been off the road for ages.

[Gee]

32 minutes ago, Sunbeam said:

Been there. I backed my Fiat into the bullbar of my quad. Did a bit more damage than you’ve done. Uninsured too because it’s been off the road for ages.

Slightly annoying as I wanted to ignore aesthetics as it looks good from 2m away but being a Mustang I can fix anything on the car. When someone backed into my Fairmont and bent rare as hens teeth chrome highlights I lost my shit.

[Tele29]

Excuse my carb ignorance, what does the spacer achieve? More torque? Or better atomization?

[Gee]

On 16/02/2023 at 21:45, Tele29 said:

Excuse my carb ignorance, what does the spacer achieve? More torque? Or better atomization?

The main things I'm trying to achieve are temperature isolation from the manifold as the phenolic does not transmit temp like aluminium and also by using an open spacer when I fit my EFI later it has a consistent signal for the MAP sensor. TBI systems do not like dual plane manifolds unless there is a slot.

I have seen tests where a spacer can add small amounts of power due to longer runner length and possibly better 'signal' at the jets but this will be minuscule on my baby v8.

[fuel]

Does anyone make an aftermarket power steering box to get rid of that archaic ram power steering system? My C3 Corvette has the same valve and ram set up and I've purchased a Borgeson replacement power steering box to get rid of that whole leaky mess.

[anglia4]

On 18/02/2023 at 19:25, fuel said:

Does anyone make an aftermarket power steering box to get rid of that archaic ram power steering system? My C3 Corvette has the same valve and ram set up and I've purchased a Borgeson replacement power steering box to get rid of that whole leaky mess.

An outfit called "Flaming River" do power rack and pinion kits for them at around USD$3000

[Gee]

On 18/02/2023 at 19:25, fuel said:

Does anyone make an aftermarket power steering box to get rid of that archaic ram power steering system? My C3 Corvette has the same valve and ram set up and I've purchased a Borgeson replacement power steering box to get rid of that whole leaky mess.

 

2 hours ago, anglia4 said:

An outfit called "Flaming River" do power rack and pinion kits for them at around USD$3000

 

Mustang centre have all the replacement parts for around $1k. It would be nice to have a cleaner install and rack and pinion power steering would probably be much better in operation but it is cheaper to keep it original and does not require a cert which any mod would.

[Flash]

I'm keen to hear how you get on with sorting out your header leaks @Geeas I'm still battling with mine. I'm about ready to chuck the buggers in the bin. Apart from leaking the right hand one is almost hard up against the starter motor and although I have massaged it a bit and wrapped the starter it still soaks up enough heat to get "lazy" when hot starting. The left one is also dangerously close to the power steer hoses - as you recently discovered too.

As you know they are an absolute bitch to pull off as there is hardly any room between them and the shock towers. 

I'm thinking about going back to a set of cast HiPo manifolds. My usual supplier stocks the aftermarket ones and rates them. I've put it on the back burner for now as the logistics of getting the car to a muffler place to modify the exhausts to fit the manifolds just seems too hard at this stage.

But I've got to say that I'm getting pretty tired of breathing in exhaust fumes. Kinda dilutes the fun of cruising around in the old girl.

[anglia4]

I've got long-tube headers on my 68 and never had any issues with them.

I'll try and remember to get some photos of them next time I'm near the car.

[Gee]

Long tube headers are not necessarily the issue in my opinion. I had header leaks on my cleveland when I first fitted them, you could see the carbon on the gasket. A bit of goo sorted that right up and no problems for 20 years. The Fairmont had a much simpler power steering system though and Flash has even less space than our 68's. I'm only guessing with the flex as my Fairmont didn't have any and it had a single system so it was all joined. I now have a dual system with a balance pipe but all of that is hanging off the header flange and rubber mounts with a thin steel flange rather than a machined cast manifold. 

@Flash if you wanted more space but not cast manifolds you could try some shorties. I know my 289 is not really using the long tube headers anyway as it probably has a very mild cam.

[Flash]

2 hours ago, Gee said:

Long tube headers are not necessarily the issue in my opinion. I had header leaks on my cleveland when I first fitted them, you could see the carbon on the gasket. A bit of goo sorted that right up and no problems for 20 years. The Fairmont had a much simpler power steering system though and Flash has even less space than our 68's. I'm only guessing with the flex as my Fairmont didn't have any and it had a single system so it was all joined. I now have a dual system with a balance pipe but all of that is hanging off the header flange and rubber mounts with a thin steel flange rather than a machined cast manifold. 

@Flash if you wanted more space but not cast manifolds you could try some shorties. I know my 289 is not really using the long tube headers anyway as it probably has a very mild cam.

Thanks for the suggestion. My engine is pretty stock apart from a 282 cam, so I'm probably not getting any real benefit from the current tri Ys either.

[j.e.d.]

I had a lot of issues with fitment of long tube headers on the 390… leaked badly the first time round. The mechanic ran a few heat cycles and bolted, tightened and retightened through those cycles. I have a feeling they tightened the bolts from back to front to pull the flange in tighter and straighter each time. Seems to have worked well this time around.