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Mr.mk1's Mopar or No Car '70 Dodge Coronet


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2 hours ago, CUL8R said:

I could be wrong but I think that all corresponds to the build plate. 

The door & door jam all the same numbers as the build plate - so at least its "numbers matching"

Also I'd take the build sheet and  laminate it or put it in a clearfile

can you get a "birth certificate" like you can from the VW archives

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15 hours ago, JustHarry said:

Has it has the rust around the rear screen done or just painted over?

Looks pretty haggard in the original losting from the us

Painted over lol, at least it’s not buried in bog I guess

That panel is pretty sound from the underside though, seems a rust trap for lots of yank cars 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 11/02/2021 at 08:27, dabuzz said:

rad looking car - how much was it for all that rusty projectness?

Vote buying a wrecked 300c and dropping your body over its chassis

20k :.-(

feels more like a 15k car,haha.

More work and no resale value in body swapping a unibody

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Good job getting them apart, tbh that design is still common enough through the 90's. 

I'd be using a pottle of copper coat for reassembly makes the alignment so much nicer to do when everything is free moving. 

When you put the drag links back in, get the steering arm and idler arm both parallel to the chassis then worry about getting the toe straight. 

Obviously that'll still be awhile off before you need to get too concerned about any of that

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AFAIK aussie a body upper ball joints were the same small joint the whole way through, B body joint is larger. US a body changed to the same bigger joint mid 70s 

I've got some aussie a body arms with joints if you want comparison measurements 

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