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On 17/04/2019 at 10:12, Mof said:

20190417_101029.thumb.jpg.bd5e1cbcac9e5f2e403df5ceb00f4f49.jpg

Came with the vehicle so I don't know how much. 

Goes over 700 I know that. 

Ended up getting one of these, scored it brand new off facebook for $50 and then got another gauge from a ute that was going to scrap.

 

Have bought a vnt turbo to go on my rodeo, its a gtd2056vkr from a ranger. I will need to change the actuator to a vacuum operated one but undecided if I control it with a dawes valve or one of these vnt boost controllers 

 

https://www.tuning-diesels.co.uk/digiboosters/

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Lol, I never bothered with those. As such, my boost control was absolutely shit. Made for good lols though.

Go for the digiboost. Or make some Arduino based unit to do the same. Could even run the servo if needed.

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I use a gt2056V(same as yours but bigger 1.0 ex housing) on my td27+T with a 10psi actuator on the vanes, and no wastegate, fuel controls amount of boost and i set that to ~18psi, I really like it, only tricky part is setting the vanes open enough that highway cruising is still good when at low boost, used to have a external gate fitted aswell, waste of time and money that was haha

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On 10/08/2019 at 13:00, drftnmaz said:

I use a gt2056V(same as yours but bigger 1.0 ex housing) on my td27+T with a 10psi actuator on the vanes, and no wastegate, fuel controls amount of boost and i set that to ~18psi, I really like it, only tricky part is setting the vanes open enough that highway cruising is still good when at low boost, used to have a external gate fitted aswell, waste of time and money that was haha

The gt2056 is quite a bit smaller and 4 generations older. If you are not controlling the vanes to control boost it is a waste of time having a vnt.

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does anyone know why my engine cuts out when my gfb d-force controller hits its over boost limit? (which i can set) I'm guessing the controller can't hold the waste gate at higher pressures, boost is set to 16psi and over boost is set to 19. i have to clutch in turn off ignition then re start the motor, motor is land cruiser 13bt 3.4L diesel, the controller is not part of the injection pump and is not wired into the ignition in any way. i think i need a stronger waste gate actuator

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if one was to replace bearings in a Toyota 1hz, and genuine toyota bearings are not available,

does one need to go to ACL Race series for longetivity, or normal ACL's sufficient

flogging season about to start again, and clutch is slipping, so birthday could be on the cards

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1hz don't usually need the bearings just the turbo ones but yeah just normal ones will be fine. 

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6 hours ago, Ranter said:

1hz don't usually need the bearings just the turbo ones but yeah just normal ones will be fine. 

might fire a oil pressure gauge on it, then.

bit slow on the oil light at start-up, even straight after a service

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Yep you could chuck an aftermarket one on to double check pressure,  the last one I did didn't make the gauge read any better.

The one I service with 1,200,000kms takes a while to build pressure after a service, 5-10 seconds of looking underneath for the leak.  

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3 hours ago, Ranter said:

Yep you could chuck an aftermarket one on to double check pressure,  the last one I did didn't make the gauge read any better.

The one I service with 1,200,000kms takes a while to build pressure after a service, 5-10 seconds of looking underneath for the leak.  

mate. povo-spec 80-series

oil light, not factory gauge

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They have massive filters, if I can't prefill a filter on those things I usually unplug the fuel shutoff valve and crank it until it gets pressure.

Or I don't, depending on how much I care that day.

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2 hours ago, Yowzer said:

They have massive filters, if I can't prefill a filter on those things I usually unplug the fuel shutoff valve and crank it until it gets pressure.

Or I don't, depending on how much I care that day.

bit hard to pre-fill when it upside down mounted.

it not rattly, so it can do another summer of hauling shit down south

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@smokin'joe 

Toyota service requirements state that the big and mains get done every 100000kms, in all 1hz, 1hd-t, 1hd-ft and 1hd-fte motors

just plug a oil gauge in run it back into the cab and watch it for a few weeks. No better data logging than eye balling a gauge every time your in it. 

or whip the sump and pull a few mains and big ends for a wee look. if it's looking shaky bearing roll ! 

 

 

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43 minutes ago, scooters said:

@smokin'joe 

Toyota service requirements state that the big and mains get done every 100000kms, in all 1hz, 1hd-t, 1hd-ft and 1hd-fte motors

just plug a oil gauge in run it back into the cab and watch it for a few weeks. No better data logging than eye balling a gauge every time your in it. 

or whip the sump and pull a few mains and big ends for a wee look. if it's looking shaky bearing roll ! 

 

 

when was this bulletin issued ?

i got a bollocking for suggesting it when i first bought it ( 3yrs/55K ago ) from guys that have been at Toyota dealerships for many, many years, claiming internet myth.

one tech said a customer demanded they inspect at 300k, so they did, but only fitted shells because it was open, but not due to wear ?

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