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Cletus' '68 Plymouth post car


RUNAMUCK
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Joining the helpful suggestion team, whats the AFR like at idle? can you fatten it up a bit? Lean equals HOT water temps.

If that is not an issue, then if you are looking for a fan that moves MUCHO air, then go to Pickapart and look at the Volvo's grab their fan, the wiring and relays. They are super simple to figure out and they have 2 speeds fucking fast, and even faster again, sounds like a fuckin Fokker Friendship taxi-ing for take off.

https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/volvo_electric_fan.shtml

 

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The fan unit look like this - all the wiring a direct positive and negative feed to the battery and a pair of wires back to a 2 stage toggle switch in dash
(With my new motor I am going to wire one side to a thermo switch so stage 1 will turn on automatically and put stage 2 to an override for when I notice it getting a bit scorchy)

https://oldschool.co.nz/uploads/monthly_2020_02/20140224_190559_zpsvgmch0ay.jpg.57badb5ce1c9286376be58481e2edebd.jpg
 

 

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5 hours ago, RUNAMUCK said:

Possibly a derp question,

But are you 100% certain your 1960s guage is reading correctly?  I've had issues in the past with ancient factory guages. Is the sender a proper match to the guage as well?

Yeah, it's a new auto meter gauge, and it boils over at the temp you would expect 

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2 minutes ago, cletus said:

Do you know how thick the fan is at the motor? 

That's the reason I haven't fitted a big electric fan, the rad is fairly close to the water pump pulley  

My guess is that it is thinner than that shroud looks in the photos, but they are a bit thicker than I'd like, but only at the fan motor, however I did have to change the bolts holding my water pump on to countersunk jobbies to give me enough clearance.
But I also have a dumb front crossmember that gets in the way and had to make a weird shaped fan shroud which spaced the fan blades an inch away from the radiator fins.

TLDR -  the fan blades and housing are not crazy thick, bu the motor is chunky, I can measure on Friday day and give you some actual measurements. They are actually a huge diameter though and if I mount it flat against my radiator, an inch of fan blade would sit above or below the radiator fins.

20220723_175245.jpg

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Just got the dimensions from the internet. Please excuse the freedom units.

Once removed from the shroud, this fan is about 4 inches deep from the end of the motor to the furthest point on the front of the fan. After it is removed, you'll find that the OUTER RING is about 17.5 inches across. The actual fan blade portion diameter on this fan is 388 mm (15.27 inches)

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There are some thoroughly hairy mopars running around without an EWP and not overheating, so it has to be either a water to air-flow issue or tuning issue.
I'm leaning towards air-flow cos Clint ain't no dummy and the tuning issues should be within a range that it won't fuck with the temps, so either there isn't enough cool air passing over the rad or the water is not in the rad long enough to cool down.

When you pulled t-stat out, did you leave a restrictor in place?

 

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I've only skim read, but you mentioned something about the intercooler could you add side thingies to it so the fan is pulling straight through the "assembly" instead of just the rad being the one with the pull. I'm Wondering if there's turbulence of pull through the intercooler vs pull going around/ under it.

Prob not, don't have wind tunnel.

Do you have oil temp and coolant gauges, can tell you heaps as the oil is usually way.more stable so if both are xx and then coolant jumps up but the oil stays the same after half and hour then maybe it is a flow issue?

Iunno too many beers deep now.

 

Oh, and are you sure you don't have a rag in one of the rad fittings. 

 

Don't laugh, it has happened. 

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1 hour ago, KKtrips said:

There are some thoroughly hairy mopars running around without an EWP and not overheating, so it has to be either a water to air-flow issue or tuning issue.
I'm leaning towards air-flow cos Clint ain't no dummy and the tuning issues should be within a range that it won't fuck with the temps, so either there isn't enough cool air passing over the rad or the water is not in the rad long enough to cool down.

When you pulled t-stat out, did you leave a restrictor in place?

 

This s is a good point, don't you have a ir thermometer? Check the in vs out temp 

 

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My 351 Clevo had similar issues getting hot when idling for long time or slow traffic on hot days.

Turned out to be the wrong thermostat for 351C in it so when hot and open the hot water still circulated through the heads to get even hotter. -May have had 351W thermostat in it?

Swapping to correct thermostat helped heaps as bypass then properly blocks off to send hot water just to radiator. Now runs much cooler stationary on hot days and going up slow hills.

I see you have already tried a couple of different thermostats, but not sure if your engine has similar set up where the thermostat could be mixed up?

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