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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt


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19 minutes ago, Nominal said:

Where can I get a decent set of jumper leads? Ones with actual bolted on clamps, not shitty pressed/crimped supercheat style.

Not bolted on clamps... But I got some kincrome ones from Bunnings. Surprisingly inexpensive. Even has an inline voltage thingo. The clamps are much sturdier than the flimsy SuperShit ones that are really easy to bend, they are plastic coated steel with 2-2.5mm thick copper teeth. The wire core is also a decent size. The cheap ones tend to make their wire look more heavy duty by making the insulation thicker but the core is still small. 

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Whats the go with GL4 and GL5 gear oils? Probably about time I did the gearbox oil in my KZN130, Castrol website reckons GL5 for a KZN165 (theres not a 130 listing that I could see). I vaguely remember something about GL5 not being suitable for older transmissions but I assume the KZN130 is 'modern' enough that GL5 would be suitable? 

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Rusti or Rudi once posted a link to a study paper abut GL5 oil and brass synchros. IIRC the guts was that it sticks to the metal so well that when it shears off, it removes part of the surface of the metal.  Ive changed GL5 oil out of gearboxes,and the pan has been full of fine brass. a disturbing golden fine sand in the oil.

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Hilux is light duty enough that GL4 would be fine. I run Castrol VMX in mine, but would probably happily run anything that doesn't smell like sulphur.

The owner manual for those Hiluxes does actually specify GL4 and GL5 though if I recall correctly.

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48 minutes ago, cletus said:

You cant blame the oil, I've seen you shift gears lol  

A properly shifted gear should produce a satisfying crack! Sound from the sleeve of your jacket. Much like from the Gi of an expert martial artist when they strike during a demonstration. 

Strike first!

Shift fast!

NO MERCY!

(or mechanical sympathy)

 

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We get heaps of machinery Powdercoated at work, which has a really tough nice finish, but it is quite time consuming vs something like wet spraying. I saw some machinery those other day that had a really nice surface finish that was like wet spray but it was slightly textured and felt as if it would be a bunch tougher than your typical wet spray. Are there any painting types in between wet spray and powder coating? Google shows a whole bunch of gimmicky things so I can’t gauge what’s a real commercial solution and what’s not. This replaying to painting big 1 ton+ steel frames, to small 500g steel/aluminium parts

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Guess depends what paint you are wet spraying currently? I think in industry its the same as car tech, you go to two part epoxy primer and two part Urethane top coat (you can buy industrial versions of these paints from automotive places). Epoxy primer has the best adhesion and Urethane is flexible and UV resistant. Knew a dude whos whole gig was blasting and painting cranes using that process. Maybe I am off but that's what I have seen. Its the same paints for pretty much everything you want to last (2pac epoxy+urethane) factory floors, home garage floors, cars everything. Its currently the best paint tech for durability.

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Hmm yeah at the moment we only use wet spray as an extreme backup and it’s pretty much sent to a mate of the powder coaters, so we dont really have an idea on what it is. I’ll look into the epoxy and urethane types

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20 hours ago, peteretep said:

We get heaps of machinery Powdercoated at work, which has a really tough nice finish, but it is quite time consuming vs something like wet spraying. I saw some machinery those other day that had a really nice surface finish that was like wet spray but it was slightly textured and felt as if it would be a bunch tougher than your typical wet spray. Are there any painting types in between wet spray and powder coating? Google shows a whole bunch of gimmicky things so I can’t gauge what’s a real commercial solution and what’s not. This replaying to painting big 1 ton+ steel frames, to small 500g steel/aluminium parts

We usually use carboline paints or altex coatings on stuff at work when we need to ask for specific paints and have really good service/advice from their application people. 

TBH the last one I got some advice on I was very surprised, inside of an atmospheric flash tank, total ball of rust inside just painted it in hope to get it to last 4 more years/total band aid didnt have much else we could do at the time. opened it up last year (after 4 years in service) and 90+% of the paint was there. there had totally expected the steam and hot water to have just peeled it all off like it wasnt there.

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Gday upper class spam, not sure if i should be posting this in the cad drawing thread but i'll try here first. I have acquired the pinnacle of 60s british engineering, a lucas foglight which i want to wire to a manual switch on the dash for general reversing purposes. i've got a relay but not sure where to put it. if the foglights were at the front the wiring would be short and i wouldnt care but with such a long run to the back of the car i'm not sure. 
1, next to the battery. 

2, under the dash next to the switch.

3, in the boot next to the spotlight. 

4. somewhere obvious i havent thought of

cheers. 

wiring..jpg

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anywhere is fine, just run some ok thickness wires. its a lucas product we are talking about, so they normally just run through the switch and barely work.

id tuck it under the dash somewhere

do you have a power distribution block/ secondary fuse box somewhere?

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I've got some 15 amp Chinese 1.5mm wire. I have an inline fuse holder yeah, I forgot to say that. the car has no fuse box so whenever I add anything I put one in. 

edit, I was hoping under the dash would be alright, cos theres feed wires already there. 

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