ajg193

ajg193's 1983 KP61 Sprint

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Swap springs over and see if the height difference moves. /Cobra springs @ Chamberlains (if they still exist) will probably have some on the shelf.

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3 hours ago, igor said:

Looking good with the new springs. Almost looks like you fitted a lift kit. 

I may just be sick in the head, but I'm sure these cars look better when they are high if they have Sprint rims.

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When someone who isnt me posts a whole bunch of graphs on the internet

so_good.png.b2df16c8438090b5036c501879d21c29.png


Although stop labelling and scaling your axes, you're making me look bad

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Congrats on cert, but you're doing it wrong...
You're supposed to go "Since I'm getting it certed, I might as well do XYZ as well" 
And then scope creep your project into oblivion like the rest of us

Just looking back over your fuel results etc, have you spent much more time on this since then?
 

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I think your cert plate is invalid bro? They don’t seem to include your fully hectik lift kit? Any body lift more than 50mm needs to be certed aye

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Yeah, I know what you mean about the cert thing. It does seem like getting a cert pushes people to modify their cars more than they would like. I'd love to see a future where there is a multiple-tiered cert system where if you do certain types of mods or single system mods they can be checked quicker - with less associated paperwork and maybe not even require fitting a cert plate - to reduce costs significantly.

I haven't done too much regarding fuel stuff recently. Had a little play with ignition timing (I couldn't hold at high RPM on dyno as had limited airflow and poor extraction from the room at the time so kept triggering CO alarm), virtual dyno reckons I got a good solid 10% bump in midrange and pulled peak horsepower up a tad and to higher RPM now. (you were right about virtual dyno being reasonably repeatable). Basic math prediction of horsepower based on weight and hill slope said I was making 13.5 kW at wheels at 1800 rpm, both the dyno and virtual dyno agreed with that.

I've been thinking about adding a VSS to the car so I can get better real time fuel consumption figures. As far as I can recall it is using around 3 L/100 km at 60 km/h, and around 5.5 L/100 km at steady 100 km/h. I feel that could drop by 10% just by going to supercat tyres though, but I prefer the grip of the A539s.

 

I have a random hall effect sensor I scavenged from a scrapped uni project recently, it was being used to detect shaft speed from bolt heads passing it. I'm not really sure where I could mount it unobtrusively on the car, especially without putting any holes into hard to find bits - otherwise I would have just mounted it to the front hubs and picked up wheel studs or brake rotor studs. Do you have any suggestions?

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That's amazing fuel economy. Over 50 mpg at the speed limit. What did they claim to get when new?

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Depends who you ask, there were a lot of different configurations around the world.

USDM model claimed to get 57 US MPG at highway speed (4.13 L/100 km) (high compression 4KE, 58 hp)

JDM model claimed to get 5.2 L/100 km for combined cycle, 3.33 L/100 km at 60 km/h (high compression 4KEU, 79 hp), carb model got slightly worse (high compression 4KU and 4KJ, 78 and 76 hp)

NZ didn't give any specs for fuel consumption for Starlet, but we had low compression 4K, rated for 66 hp - no idea where they got that rating from. I think the US power rating is probably the closest for flywheel power of any of the claims.

I reckon my fuel consumption should really be a lot better, but they tyres I have get an F rating for fuel consumption. With supercats and old goodyears I once managed 4.8 L/100 km over a tank with the carb. I was driving 80 pretty much the whole time, and the fuel consumption seems to increase by about 10% going from 90 to 100.

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I have a bunch of leftover wierdo Hall effect sensors you can have if you want. SOT-23? (Size of a grain of rice). It'll cost you drinking a cuppa and having to listen to some random wombling sharn.

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Just now, h4nd said:

I have a bunch of leftover wierdo Hall effect sensors you can have if you want. SOT-23? (Size of a grain of rice). It'll cost you drinking a cuppa and having to listen to some random wombling sharn.

The one I have is a proper automotive one so would probably be more suitable. Usually keen for a sharn though. We should organise another OS meet sometime

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36 minutes ago, ajg193 said:

I have a random hall effect sensor I scavenged from a scrapped uni project recently, it was being used to detect shaft speed from bolt heads passing it. I'm not really sure where I could mount it unobtrusively on the car, especially without putting any holes into hard to find bits - otherwise I would have just mounted it to the front hubs and picked up wheel studs or brake rotor studs. Do you have any suggestions?

Yeah maybe onto a bracket that clamps onto the rear diff and looks at bolts passing by or something - Not too many options.
Maybe the diff pinion flange could be a good spot?
I need to figure out the same soonish as I want to get wheel speed from all four corners.

But will be redoing brakes at the same time so I'll incorporate it into the bracket somehow.

Keep in mind that your ECU might have a max frequency it can read, G4+ Link cant read over 500hz I think it is on the digital inputs.
So factory wheel speed sensors for ABS will overspeed it with their 60 tooth wheel or whatever it is. 

4 or 8 bolts per revolution is heaps especially if it's just for speedo, even one would probably do.

 

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On my 20v 4AGE swap I needed to provide the ECU with a switched earth speed signal to stop it throwing error codes. Eventually did it by hacking up a bicycle computer setup - you know the ones, magnet on a spoke and sensor on the forks jobby.
Attached a small neodynium magnet to the prop and the sensor to the driveshaft hoop. Bit of a bodge but worked for my purposes, not sure if it would work here?

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silly  question.   how much fuel do you put in on a fill from empty?     my fuel gauge is janky as, when its on E a massive 20L fills it.   from a quick google they are 40L tank?

sucks to going to gas station every 200km.    <-  from that,  you can feel better about your fuel economy

 

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They're rated as 40 L

I think the most I have ever fit in is about 35.5 L, never really had the balls to run it lower. I'd assume it would start sucking air at about 37 L. I'll check my fuel log as the tank was bone dry when I first put the EFI on.

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On 03/06/2020 at 20:39, Roman said:

Keep in mind that your ECU might have a max frequency it can read, G4+ Link cant read over 500hz I think it is on the digital inputs.
So factory wheel speed sensors for ABS will overspeed it with their 60 tooth wheel or whatever it is. 
 

https://www.jaycar.co.nz/4017-decade-counter-divider-cmos-ic/p/ZC4017 or https://www.jaycar.co.nz/4024-7-stage-ripple-carry-counter-divider-cmos-ic/p/ZC4024 should sort that out for you for $2. You just wanna de-noise and spike protect the sensitive CMOS inputs.

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Too late now/wouldn't have fitted in with keeping oem looking but the gm hei module I'm using on the tonner probably would have worked with your stock electronic ignition dizzy. They have a tach (rpm) output and advance input from the ecu. 

I've had one working off a Honda dizzy so I imagine they'd work on most of those style dizzies 

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The OCD in me thinks the alternator pulley fan and nut and washer should get zinc plated like the factory

you can thank me later.

plus the fan looks like its bare steel so will rust in no time  

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Just now, piazzanoob said:

The OCD in me thinks the alternator pulley fan and nut and washer should get zinc plated like the factory

you can thank me later.

plus the fan looks like its bare steel so will rust in no time  

Fan is bright zinc

front of pulley is black zinc, didn't want to get any in the V so stayed away from that spot.

The other thing is that the alternator is the one part of the engine you can't even see

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