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ajg193's 1983 KP61 Sprint


ajg193

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58 minutes ago, Roman said:

Pretty epic to have this all back together so quickly! 

Def get that rev limit up!

 

I really should sort out the oil pressure issue at some point, I don't really like how low it is getting at idle. I feel like I might have done something stupid in the reassembly, like not making sure the oil pump was butted up as far as possible in the block

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1 hour ago, ajg193 said:

I really should sort out the oil pressure issue at some point, I don't really like how low it is getting at idle. I feel like I might have done something stupid in the reassembly, like not making sure the oil pump was butted up as far as possible in the block

Did it do it before the rebuild ? 

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8 hours ago, cletus said:

Did it do it before the rebuild ? 

Nope. Oil light would go out before it would even finish cranking before

 

Well, I guess the light goes out quickly when starting. But yeah, the light never came on when hot before.

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13 minutes ago, cletus said:

If you dont have a gauge on it already I'd put one on and see what it's like through the rest of the rev range before driving it too much 

 

I have had the same issue on a rebuilt engine and it was a faulty pressure switch 

I put a gauge on yesterday, pressure built up quickly above idle

It still bugs me though so I might try dropping the sump next time I do an oil change and check the pump

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Hmm yeah I would not be happy with a rebuilt 4k that had low pressure at idle. I have owned a couple and they had shit loads of pressure at idle they have pretty good oiling systems. But they will drop when the bottom end wears out like most things. I would spew at running anything thicker than 40w on a rebuild TBH, what were the measurements like on the bottom end? Whats the gauge say? how hot was it?

A sharn for contrast, with my old Buick 455 that has a terrible oiling system designed by some barries from the 60's it started flicking the oil light. Gauge showed like 5-7psi which happens on these donks, shimmed up the oil pump (its in this gross old alloy housing that melts) and that got me a few PSI but it slowly got worse. Pulled it down and sure enough huge clearance on the bottom end, had a ghetto rebuild at some point. Fast forward throwing all the money at it and line boring the bottom end to get it back to the factory clearances which are pretty tight. Bam 40psi at idle which drops to like 25-30psi after 30min of driving once the oil was actually hot, running synthetic 30w also. You kinda needed that idle oil pressure or almost no oil was going up the pushrods to the rockers when sitting around in traffic etc.

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Plastigage reckoned the clearances were at the mid-upper end of allowable (old bearings were way over allowable)

Gauge was saying 10 or less at idle, building up to more than 50 I think when revving up, engine was at full operating temperature and had been driving for about half an hour

 

Light didn't come on today when doing my weekly shopping run, but the idle speed is upped to around 1000 now. Light will still come on at about 600 rpm when at full operating temperature after hooning

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I polished the crank with some autosol when I had it all apart, not sure if the smoother surface just lets the oil flow through faster?

I still reckon the oil pump just isn't seated on the block 100%, but seeing how the pressure is fine while driving I think/hope waiting until the 1000 km oil change before pulling it apart will be fine

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Pressure while driving is nothing to do with it really, pretty much everything has fine pressure off idle unless the pump has exploded.

I thought the bottom end had been built. So its just a ghetto rebuild with no resizing or measuring how round it is? the low pressure will just be that pretty much.

I mean I hope you find something simple like the pump bleeding pressure somewhere or whatever. But I have never had any success with new bearing shells on old bottom ends.

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How's the oil pressure situation after the re rebuild?

Did you find what was causing it?

 

You must have done a heap of kms in it, I seem to remember it wasn't that long ago you replaced tyres, good work actually using your old car for its intended purpose 

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Oil pressure is better than before, crank ground undersize to 0.25, I reckon he got the clearances a little on the loose side though as it still wants slightly thicker than 15w-40, light comes on at about 550 rpm if super hot. He said the clearances were about 2.5 thou, would have been 4 if he just blindly went to book size. I'm guessing that over time there will get to be a little buildup on the bearing journals to increase the flow resistance and make higher pressure.

 

Managed to get 35000 out of the old tyres, supposedly quite good going for a539s. It's my car of choice for driving so tends to rack up the kms

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