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Have you run octane booster before?


KKtrips

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There are a lot of myths around about Ethanol, don't beleive everything you read on the internet eh.

Never had a problem myself and I also run it in an 80s motorbike with vacuum hose for fuel line which is still in one peice..

I tried E10 in an 80's motorbike once, it ran like shit till I drained the tank and filled with 98

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E10 is fine if your carb has the seals to deal with it oh and you don't have the original fuel lines. Have seen super old fuel lines balloon out because of it. But yea I avoid putting it in most old cars but you shouldn't notice the difference in running at all.

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KK, is your timing set at tdc and it still rattles? ie 0 degrees btdc

Yeah at 0 degrees - detonates when I change from cruising to mashing full throttle.

 

We talking 308? am going to ignore that you said no diagnosis.

Is it pinging on 98 fuel? If it is and your motor is stock compression it isn't the gas buddy, its carb or ignition. Or maybe carbon.

Off the shelf octane boosters can die.

Yup - I'm thinking more and more that the motor has a buttload of compression - maybe like 11:1 or something stupid - don't know why - too much off the heads or something possibly.

Shazdad first suggested the motor had heaps of/too much compression when he was building the exhaust.

 

I'm putting it down to shit NZ fuel with way too much compression. So was thinking about octane.

 

As I have 2 dizzys now so a few spare parts are available then I'm going to go from one light and one heavy spring in the dizzy to 2 heavy springs and also thinking about drilling one set of weights with an 8mm hole in each to slow down the advance. (currently running no vacuum adv)

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something i have done a few times on old enjuns is check that tdc actually is proper tdc- sometimes the balancer outer ring has moved/ not that accurate to start with/wrong timing cover etc

 

then measure the circumference of the balancer, divide the measurement by 360 degrees and measure and mark out some of your own timing marks that go as far as you need

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Yea waste of time, I doubt you have built a engine that can't be run on pump gas. 98 is sweet, even 95 should be ok, pull some timing out and chuck a wideband in it, real easy to have the APT set lean. All in at 3 something sounds safe really usually go all in earlier, cletus is onto it check TDC and mark the pulley up so you can check what's going on.

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Carb was tuned by a pretty clever QJet man - who knows his Holdens like the back of his hand. So I have complete faith he has set up the carb correctly.

 

FWIW - I stripped both distributors last night and fitted the 2 strong springs to my distributor and although I didn't get a chance to road test it I got some good results on the timing light.

Mech timing is set at 6 degrees static and peaks out at 22 degrees by 3000rpm and it is a steady progressive rate rather than the original quick ramp up from 0 to 20 degrees by 2000 then to 25 by 3000.

 

I haven't connected the vac advance yet but will try with and without VA on Friday roadtest.

 

I'm going to just buy some octane booster for the trip in case I can't find 98 on the road.

A quick search tell me that between Welllington and Napier on SH2 I can only get 98 in Masterton, Waipukarau and Hastings. But that's it.

Waipuk is a Mobil which is Ethanol blend - fuck that.

Also checked TDC marks on the pulley - damn long stroke cranks are hard to tell with a screwdriver but I've got a fairly good hand for feeling it and TDC was midway between the noticeable feeling of the piston dropping away and coming up. So I can be confident that it's within 2 - 4 degrees if not spot on.

I know I know - I need to get a degree wheel onto it aye Spence...

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if it works on the right angle, an old spark plug with something welded up the end of it to hit the piston works well- turn engine by hand till it stops against the plug- mark pulley- turn the other way till it stops- mark pulley- halfway between your 2 marks is tdc

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