Spencer Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 Haha no fun degree wheeling it in the bay! but most old shit TDC is off a few degrees, only really needs to be accurate for cam degreeing, at least you know you aren't way off You should still borrow a wideband at some stage, on a Q-jet with the adjustable part throttle (where its pinging) you could be anywhere from 16:1 through 12:1 and not really notice much difference. On another note I would bet that it is rich on the secondaries, mine is mega rich and the stock holden needles I have at home aren't any better. I have ordered a bunch of hangers and needles to get some power back up top and stop using all the worlds gas. I have come around to E10 Ethanol lately, its fine if you have all new fuel lines and have rebuilt the carb, unless your carb kit had a shitty old accel pump seal (good one is blue I think) it should be good. Out in the sticks here you sometimes wont have any options but E10 (they have 100 octane as well!) and I'd rather chuck half a tank of 98 E10 in than rely on octane booster. Anyway see how the spark tuning goes, got adjustable vacuum advance? you should tune it so you are running vacuum advance especially since this thing already smashes the gas. Is it just me or does that seem pretty conservative on the timing already? I know my uncles hot 308 runs timing all in (around 32 degrees) at around 2500, Buick is all in at around 2200. Even with compression big motors with bathtub/wedge heads usually lap up the timing. Anyway have a fun trip to hawkes boes and do a skid. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 also on the ethanol - if its on a road trip and you are going to use it all up quick smart its probably not quite as big of a worry as it wont have much time to eat away at stuff if it is going to 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 They usually put some anti corrosive stuff into the E10 mix as well (Gull does at least). I think you guys are a little paranoid haha - maybe a good excuse to drive your old beast regularly? Bring on E85 I say Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 Guy chucked a tank of E10 in the Buick when I picked it up, watched ancient old hoses expand and split over about 3 days, will fuck a accel pump and O-rings in a carb pretty quick too. The alloy/steel corrosiveness is not really a big issue, it just smashes old rubber, no worries if you have rebuilt the carb and done the hoses. Oh it will kill a old fuel pump too, you should generally be cautious with a old whip and E10. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 Good to hear it from someone with actual experience for once, rather than internet hearsay. Just seemed odd after having so much success with it in my old shitters. I'll stop harping on now haha. As you were. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 I had never seen anything like it on my fuel lines, they kind of swelled up and melted, was proper old school fuel hose too. I think in the 70's fuel system/carb parts changed from neoprene to nitrile, so anything after around 75 will have much better resistance to E10, it smashes cork gaskets that some old carbs have, also heard soldered brass floats get fucked up. So yea a rule of thumb is after ~75 its going to take more time to melt any rubber bits you have. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.