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Posted

Pretty sure that shit melts out unless you use fancy stainless stuff. 

 

Next question for KPR - how does glass strand react to welding? Should I weld up most of the chamber first, then stuff, then cap it last?

Posted

yup,  you got it.     doesnt effect the weld too much if you burn though a bit of it.  not likely to worry mig at all.   mild/stainless with tig will be ok as well if go though the odd strand.    if its just sitting up against the metal on the other side of weld, no drama at all. chop will just melt back a touch, if it gets too hot for it

Posted

"novelty households bowl brush pot dish washing stainless steel decontamination ball cleaning brush tableware wash tools"

That's a hell of a name.

Why's it a novelty?

Posted

just run the exhaust to the back of the car and put double the size muffler that you have at the far back , it would probaly need a retune with muff that far back ,more power for you . keep exhaust close to tail shaft tunnel for more room under car

  • 2 months later...
Posted

So i kept up with most of this thread when people were posting in it regularly, and now i have a question that i dont remember being asked/answered.

Solid mounting exhaust a good idea with a flexi? and what kind of clearance should you keep from the car to keep your shoes from melting at a track day?

Posted

Reason i ask is the motor can get a good shake on sometimes, plus the current exhaust hits the body every so often thanks to the crap suspension in it/bumps.

I've snapped the exhaust already just back from the firewall so thought a flexi would be the way to go, and having solid mounting means i can get closer to the car for clearance without it hitting the car on every bump.

good idea/bad idea? thoughts?

Posted

Flexis are gay in my eyes, there's just no need on RWD cars, you don't see them on factory rwd stuff.

Fix the motor shaking, should be pretty smooth. If you build it with the proper solid rubber mounts (rather than gay dounut things) it will be sweet and not crack and hit the floor. Had RWD car exhausts solid rubber mounted on slammed cars that smash on the road and never break. Buick engine flaps around at idle due to the cam and the exhaust is mounted tight on those rubber blocks and its sweet.

Basically just build it awesome on the proper rubber mounts and it will be sweet.

  • Like 2
Posted

+1

 

if you mount it decent and your engine mounts aren't jelly.  10mm is enough clearance.  if your floor gets too hot, you are going too slow

  • Like 2
Posted

solid mount off gearbag somehow then 1 or 2 rubber ones at the back?

what type of solid block ones do you mean spencer. like landcruiser ones like this? or something else?


m4h-54imY1z1gvxzCWMgDtQ.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm facing an upcoming turbo exhaust conundrum, going to a 2.5" for better flow on my TX3 but still worried about how loud and droney it's going to be (Testament will recall how awful it used to be on the open road).

 

Currently the system is 2.25" and has two 600mm resonators and a generic "sports" muffler, and is pretty damn loud/droney/yuck.

 

Would going to a 2.5" with one resonator and two mufflers be a good option for reducing noise levels, or am I just going to be chasing my own tail?

 

I'm aware there are a squillion muffler choices out there as well which isn't going to make things any easier.

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