Dusty Posted July 27, 2013 Author Share Posted July 27, 2013 More oil mods To block off the oil feed that runs from the rear plate to the front through the dowels i taped the front and rear housings with a 12x1.75, also did the oil feed that runs from the oil pump to the front cover. 20130722_173749 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130724_182251 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130724_182510 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130724_190421 by Dustybike, on Flickr I needed a better way to hold the plates in the drill than in a vice so made this, just some plate in a T but worked well 20130727_125439 by Dustybike, on Flickr Removed the copper plugs in the front plate and drilled the gallery to the front stationary gear out from about 6.5mm to 10mm 20130722_182342 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130723_181523 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130723_185120 by Dustybike, on Flickr And the rear. it tapers from 10mm down to about 8.5mm. just drilled it to 10mm 20130727_133029 by Dustybike, on Flickr Finally drilled the gallery from the oil pump from 10mm to 12.5mm 20130727_145123 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130727_144651 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130727_145028 by Dustybike, on Flickr Put the stationary gears back in the plates and drilled them a bit to match the gallery's 20130727_145937 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130727_150002 by Dustybike, on Flickr then drilled their oil lines from 7mm to 8mm. i would have gone bigger but was limited by the lip bit. fronts went smoothly 20130727_151437 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130727_151614 by Dustybike, on Flickr The rear was a bit out to start with and going bigger didnt really help so i tried to port it out a bit to match the oil ring. its a real tight space though 20130727_151406 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130727_153331 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130727_160547 by Dustybike, on Flickr and ported the oil inlets 20130727_160415 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130727_160501 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130727_160516 by Dustybike, on Flickr Im waiting on a 3/8 ntp tap to turn up so i can add an 10 fittings to the front plate for the front stationary gear and oil pump lines. fyi 1/2 inch ntp is to large. to explain whats going on oil normally flows from the rear plate below the oil filter through the dowels to the front stationary gear feed, this is about 3 90degree bends. im doing whats called a loop line mod where you run an external oil line directly to the stationary gear greatly improving oil flow. also when plates crack the do it around the rear dowel leaking oil. this avoids the leaking oil part. Blocking off the front cover oil flow saves another 3 90 degree bends and feeds strait out the side of the plate. It blocks off the front oil metering valve and omp though. provided you have a low idle and warm the engine up properly before using it this shouldn't be a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicT Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 Epic dude, keep it up. I gave up on the rotary idea for the mx5 i had yonks ago when i priced up the seals and bearings. I hope you are prepared for the price tag. I would still love to build a rota, one day.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted July 29, 2013 Author Share Posted July 29, 2013 cheers, yeah its not cheap, i get some discount working at a mazda dealership but it doesnt help much. ordered them today though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted August 3, 2013 Author Share Posted August 3, 2013 tapped the oil feeds. i wasnt brave enough to drill to far down on the left one so it only secrews in about 5mm, hopefully it will do. 20130729_182049 by Dustybike, on Flickr Finished porting on the oil pump 20130730_171859 by Dustybike, on Flickr tidied up the primary and secondry port runners and poorly port matched them 20130730_173909 by Dustybike, on Flickr drilled and taped all the sump bolt holes from 6mm to 8mm, i need to go back through with a finishing tap of some sort though. 20130803_130816 by Dustybike, on Flickr Most of my internal parts arrived, all new water and oil seals, oil control rings, all factory springs, side and corner seals. and ra super seal apex seals. Still waiting on bearings and a couple more seals that are ex japan. 20130803_185603 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130803_185540 by Dustybike, on Flickr Should have more driveline parts arriving next week 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted August 14, 2013 Author Share Posted August 14, 2013 Finally got around to building a tube bender my design by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130811_161711 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130811_161619 by Dustybike, on Flickr Ordered some tube to go in it today.. Drive line bits arrived, fd drive shaft, half shafts, power plant frame and 2 pairs of front calipers 20130811_161744 by Dustybike, on Flickr Bearings and the rest of the seals arrived. 20130814_181516 by Dustybike, on Flickr Also gates and stuff turned up. Two mvr 44mms, Tial Q, Davies craig water pump and two Deatsch werks dw200 fuel pumps. 20130814_180918 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130814_180956 by Dustybike, on Flickr Will get the bearings in and drill, tap and plug the coolant hose for the ac then send the engine off for machining. Looking at sending it to mazspares in auckland, anyone have any feedback on them? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sr1600 Posted August 14, 2013 Share Posted August 14, 2013 Good shit dude never seen any indepth oil gallery mods before, always wondered what what else is done apart from windowing the bearings , e-shaft mods. Have the an fittings in my block however they are sealed with copper washers under the fittings,screwed up tight. Are you planning on triming the fittings? Keep up the good work interested to see the oil mods completed, are you planning on running adjustable oil pressure reg? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted August 14, 2013 Share Posted August 14, 2013 I have been looking at those pumps too- bloody good value for what they are. Did you get controller too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted August 14, 2013 Author Share Posted August 14, 2013 Good shit dude never seen any indepth oil gallery mods before, always wondered what what else is done apart from windowing the bearings , e-shaft mods. Have the an fittings in my block however they are sealed with copper washers under the fittings,screwed up tight. Are you planning on triming the fittings? Keep up the good work interested to see the oil mods completed, are you planning on running adjustable oil pressure reg? Cheers, I had done a lot of searching for the oil mods but never found many pictures so thats why i posted all of them. Are your fittings NPT strait? mine are tapered. if i trim them they wont go in any further as its the width of the hole thats stopping them. Ill try get the threads a bit better but otherwise find some suitable lock tight. only planning on running the standard reg. its ment to be 115 psi so should do I have been looking at those pumps too- bloody good value for what they are. Did you get controller too? Nah just the pump as the controller is so damn expensive. Ill just run it on a switch in the mean time and make a controller for it later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sr1600 Posted August 14, 2013 Share Posted August 14, 2013 Cheers, I had done a lot of searching for the oil mods but never found many pictures so thats why i posted all of them. Are your fittings NPT strait? mine are tapered. if i trim them they wont go in any further as its the width of the hole thats stopping them. Ill try get the threads a bit better but otherwise find some suitable lock tight. only planning on running the standard reg. its ment to be 115 psi so should do Yeah pretty sure they must be straight , same as the connections on the oil cooler from memory but they are standard size Searched a few bit but never seen any pictures of oil gallery mods , so is awesome to see some in the flesh. , Assume removing the ball and springs in the eshaft improves the flow however up into the rotors however what size restriction did you use instead? I always thought there was something far more sinister going on here but i would appear similar to the way your going but with an external reg and still using the dowls to transfer oil back to the front stat gear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted August 15, 2013 Author Share Posted August 15, 2013 I might order a strait fitting and see how it goes, id prefer them not sticking out looking ugly/leaking I havent used a restriction for the squirters, the hole is 2mm so thaught meh. im seriously considering putting the check balls back in though. i dont really want to have to tear it down if it ends up in a street car. Yeah it looks like it, seems odd going to all that effort and not to do the loopline mod.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted September 3, 2013 Author Share Posted September 3, 2013 So lately, I drilled and tapped the 2 coolant lines coming off the rear housing that usually feed the heater core and the other to the throttle body i think. Replaced the rotor bearings, you can see the difference in the oil groove between standard and race 20130827_175117 by Dustybike, on Flickr Chamfered the oil holes on the e shaft 20130821_191333 by Dustybike, on Flickr I removed the e shaft oil squirters again and brought some webber jets Just ground down the extra bits of metal that normally catch the ball bearing, as far as im aware this essentially turns them into the factory race squirters. Then pressed in the webber jets with some jb weld for safety 20130822_153513 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130822_160753 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130822_163657 by Dustybike, on Flickr Sent most of the engine off for machining and balancing. And finally got the diff mount finished. I had to make the mounts quite high as the fd diff is quite tall. I dont have all that much faith in it but it will do untill it breaks. 20130903_190022 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130903_190106 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130903_190046 by Dustybike, on Flickr Also had a go with the tube bender, works perfectly. Made the main hoop for the cage. overbent the sides slightly but otherwise its a really nice tight fit. 20130825_143622 by Dustybike, on Flickr 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 Fuck.This.Rules. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 Hmmm, FD diff should be ok, I've never had any issues with mine and it's in a much heavier car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 looking good man, rear subframe mods look a little less stealth than mine, what are you doing with axle lenghts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furai Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 Awesome I would love a 13B, gonna drift it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted September 4, 2013 Author Share Posted September 4, 2013 Fuck.This.Rules. Cheers. Hmmm, FD diff should be ok, I've never had any issues with mine and it's in a much heavier car. The diff should hold up fine. fuck its heavy enough to. I meant my mounts, Not sure how they will handle the twisting load. looking good man, rear subframe mods look a little less stealth than mine, what are you doing with axle lenghts? Cheers. yeah tell me bout it, bloody fd parts. I think ill probably get the fd and na shafts cut and welded in the mean time. I havent had much luck finding a hub/bearing combo to fit the standard knuckle. Awesome I would love a 13B, gonna drift it? Ill have a go, Iv never been on the track before so will be terrible at everything 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted January 13, 2014 Author Share Posted January 13, 2014 Time for an update of all things. Drilled and tapped the OMP oil supply. IMG_20131201_111239 by Dustybike, on Flickr Fitted all the bungs using jb weld. IMG_20131201_113259 by Dustybike, on Flickr IMG_20131201_113336 by Dustybike, on Flickr IMG_20131128_180540 by Dustybike, on Flickr IMG_20131128_180550 by Dustybike, on Flickr Just used thread tape on the OMP feed hole and front cover oil supply. IMG_20131203_181440 by Dustybike, on Flickr IMG_20131203_182915 by Dustybike, on Flickr Nice new bearings in the stationary gears. IMG_20131204_175818 by Dustybike, on Flickr Ported the exhaust ports, I didn't go as large as i was thinking as i couldn't be bothered making an exhaust sleeve to suit. Stupid photo but i never took more of them finished, i beveled edges so its quite smooth, hopefully i wont see any chipped apex seals. IMG_20131025_153326 by Dustybike, on Flickr IMG_20131225_134940 by Dustybike, on Flickr I ended up sending the rotating assembly and plates to Rotorsport Racing. He did a awesome job lightening, side clearencing, balancing the rotors and assembly and polished the e shaft. Ended up just attacking the plates with wet and dry as apparently fd ones need re nitrating when they're skimmed. 20130917_120511 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130917_120939 by Dustybike, on Flickr Painted the housings and plates, I wanted to do gunmetal grey on the housings but couldn't find any and didn't want to go white on black and have a zebra engine so just went black on black. IMG_20131201_203141 by Dustybike, on Flickr Stuck the apex seals together using loctite 401. its just strong enough to hold the springs in place in the engine and should melt away once running. IMG_20131225_163934 by Dustybike, on Flickr Ground the side seals to length and assembled the rotors. IMG_20131225_162638 by Dustybike, on Flickr Then got stacking. IMG_20131226_113637 by Dustybike, on Flickr IMG_20131226_115343 by Dustybike, on Flickr IMG_20131226_120327 by Dustybike, on Flickr IMG_20131226_122440 by Dustybike, on Flickr After secrewing up the end float by having the plate that the needle bearing sits on upside down i got 0.11 mm of play had a spacer machined down and then assembled it with the plate the right way up ended up with no play and probabily squished bearings. Got new bearings and assembled it properly with my old spacer and was left with 0.05mm of float just nicely within spec so have finally finished assembling it. IMG_20140113_182637 by Dustybike, on Flickr IMG_20140113_190908 by Dustybike, on Flickr IMG_20140113_194113 by Dustybike, on Flickr I also got a thermal pellet block off and filter housing bypass thing. 969402_10152052070552962_1650995955_n by Dustybike, on Flickr Have been potering along with the cage as well, I need to get hold of my mates mig and get it finished. My tig skills arnt up to the task. And i cut more shit out of the car above the diff. Wouldn't have fit a fuel tank there anyways. IMG_20140102_155445 by Dustybike, on Flickr 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Jeez lots of good stuff happening there. cage looks great too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rot808 Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Loving every part of this project, super nice job son Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Did you look in to one of those prebent cage kits? I do need to kick on with the cage in my mx but not 100% sure if a kit is the best option? this thing is going to be quite the little weapon once complete.. Also what are your plans for front knuckle / hubs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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