Furai

What needs to be done to cert a subframe like this? https://v8roadsters.com/product/light-weight-subframe-2/

L3 LF L5 and the 1.8 version as well as Duratec 4 pots in 2.0 and 2.3

https://www.facebook.com/ThatGreenMX5/videos/255070028545378/

Not really but its pretty simple, On the bottom of pic is an NC 5 Speed And here is a pic of an NA 5 speed Swap the front halfs over

NC front housing off the NC 5 speed bolted up to a NA 5 speed box

Did some more drivving, neeed to change a couple setup things then it should be better

Yeah LF-VE but I havent got the VVT going yet. I think this one was out of a Mazda 6 or Premacy around 06 model

Yeah should be decent, it pulls hard and smooth but doesnt feel punchy like the 1.6. mid range is a bit flat but heaps of torque. Weight drop is about 40kg over the whole car so nearly sub 900kg and the front being lighter makes it a bit more understeery but the lack of front cambe makes the steering heavy Haha yeah was a bit of a dull moment on my part but fairly easy fix and I drove it home as well as did another run that day

Just a broken wheel, couple dents and a bent shock not too bad. Have been super lazy with up dates but got her all running, tuned and Certed. Heres dyno graph, sadly no VVT and the exhaust I made is pretty rubbish. Vid of it drifting for the first time So bit of work to do as I snapped the clutch slave, the alignment needs changing and I need to drive better. But slowly getting there

Any forseable issues before I get a pro round to weld them in?

Yes, they supply gussets to weld on for support on the plate side

I couldnt find anything in here, https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Engine_&_Drive-train_Conversions.pdf Maybe its in the Hobby car manual thing?

3mm Steel

Moar questions Couldnt find anything about the angle of a mount, just the rules saying the mounts have to be able to withstand all forces exerted etc. Because the Mazda box tilts the motor 11deg the right side mount will come from a higher point than the left side. Basically left side is parallel with ground and right side is pointing down to the motor. As long as they are strong enough this is no issue?

Would I need to supply drawings if I was going to weld brackets like this for the engine mounts? It has no effect on any suspension geometry but just wondering if it would need anything more than to be well constructed for cert

So MX5 would defo need one, is approval easy thing to do with pictures or mock up photos/drawings?

If I brought this to the meet would anyone want to trade a burger for it?

Whats the dealio with tube subframes or welding new engine mount pick ups to stock subframe? Does it need to be approved or crack tested? Or is it more as long as it looks strong etc its fine?

And at the flywheel

So I havent updated in quite a while, been fairly busy. So heres a quick run down. Smashed a door at Hampton Crashed into a bank at a hill climb - Smashed another door after a drunk lady hit my car while it was parked and I was trying to get in it. Went to Dunedin and just missed out on qualifying Pulled my engine out and made a new bottom end So right now the engine is finished, run in and tuned. Heres the results which Im quite happy with, and thats at the wheels

Ive missed out the past few meets so should make this one hopefully

Wicked idea, cant wait to see how it goes

Thanks for the push guys

Got to do some high speed drifting at Pukekohe and even managed to finish 4th in Pro-sport class(Theres D1-Pro and Pro-sport which used to be called Pro-am) Got clocked on several entries over 160Kmh and the highest I saw was 166Kmh on the radar list. Speedo is fairly accurate as it was showing 170-175 when I last looked haha We only get to drift this track once a year because of smoke issue etc but its amazing fun, not many places you can be foot flat in 5th on entry and just never lift from the start point

Keisukes 2nd drift day, no vids from Hampton cause it sucked