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PAINT THREAD


dylan

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You can brush on plenty of epoxys if you want, then smash undercoat on. Seen industrial geezers brushing on epoxy then 2pak top coat, it wont level out well at all but fuck it. Go read a bunch of different epoxy primer data sheets. I use Protec over here because I get a sweet hookup, its all I used on the Buick 

 

An example of a datasheet where you can brush on epoxy, its a epoxy with zinc phosphate for corrosion resistance it is 10x more suitable than anything listed above and can be coated my almost anything. Beats POR15, rustkill all that gay shit hands down

 

http://www.ppglic.com.au/uploads/tds/470%20-%20XXXX%20BARRIER%20PRIME%20EX%20-%20470%20ANTICORROSIVE%20EPOXY.pdf

 

Over here I would get 4L of that plus 2L hardener and thinners (makes like 7L of paint) for around $100. 

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how would i go about a 2 tone paint job my car is black on white and has quite a lip between the two colours been thinking about redoing same colours as it looks mint but not sure how you get away from the paint line between colours (you can feel it Yuck) i've got a few deep scratches now on it and humidity blisters in places from last owners paint job so i it needs attention soon. i have done some pretty sweet paintjobs in past and have good  sprayguns to use but yeah merging 2 colours?? any ideas.

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Cheers for the link Spencer, looks like pretty good shit. Thing is that I can get the Wattyl gear at a good price, so am more inclined to go for the gay stuff as it will be nice® to my wallet. Both products seem to be similar in job, the Protec just a better spec. Will report back my results in 6 months time heh. I read the MSDS sheets for the various "rustkill" themed products and they look to be appropriate. 

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kill rust is terrible stuff avoid if possible

 

Suggestions? What makes it and the other the industrial products Wattyl sell bad? They have a shitload of products for varying corrosive exposure levels. Just after something to brush on to go between the underside of car and the 2 layers of underseal it will get.

 

50 years lol, escort is very low on my priority list for funds/effort. 

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how would i go about a 2 tone paint job my car is black on white and has quite a lip between the two colours been thinking about redoing same colours as it looks mint but not sure how you get away from the paint line between colours (you can feel it Yuck) i've got a few deep scratches now on it and humidity blisters in places from last owners paint job so i it needs attention soon. i have done some pretty sweet paintjobs in past and have good  sprayguns to use but yeah merging 2 colours?? any ideas.

Do it in basecoat/clearcoat, can layer up your colours with basecoat then clear the whole job and tadaa no line!

 

Always use a good quality fineline tape for the break between the colours

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Suggestions? What makes it and the other the industrial products Wattyl sell bad? They have a shitload of products for varying corrosive exposure levels. Just after something to brush on to go between the underside of car and the 2 layers of underseal it will get.

 

50 years lol, escort is very low on my priority list for funds/effort. 

its a very low grade paint made for garden furniture, with a whole list of reasons not to use it under your car. you can brush on any paint it just might not flow out as well as others. just head on into RJP and buy some cheap etch primer and some laquer black and brush to your hearts content 

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flattening base to a 1k top coat or base coat? matting base is sometimes used in base coats to help get even coverage but base is matt/satin by on its own

adding matting agent to a 2k top coat will do look and last just the same as a premade matt paint but will be more transparrent and take more coats to cover

ie 2 coats of mipa flat black covers the same as 3/4 coats of a heavily matted 2k gloss

 

 

Keen of doing a Satin type finish on the mazda - do you have to stick with the finish straight off the gun or is there some finishing work you can do on it - sanding buffing etc??

 

The last car I painted was the starlet in acrathane (spelling) which i hit with some 1200 grade and then the buffer with some cutting compound.. which was ideal to say bye bye to some of the inperfections..

 

I fear if i don't have the luxury of doing some finishing work the top coat straight off the gun may be none too flash.. in which case i would flag the satin finish and carry out in a similar manner to the starlet..

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its a very low grade paint made for garden furniture, with a whole list of reasons not to use it under your car. you can brush on any paint it just might not flow out as well as others. just head on into RJP and buy some cheap etch primer and some laquer black and brush to your hearts content 

 

Will pop in and see them at some stage, cheers

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Keen of doing a Satin type finish on the mazda - do you have to stick with the finish straight off the gun or is there some finishing work you can do on it - sanding buffing etc??

 

The last car I painted was the starlet in acrathane (spelling) which i hit with some 1200 grade and then the buffer with some cutting compound.. which was ideal to say bye bye to some of the inperfections..

 

I fear if i don't have the luxury of doing some finishing work the top coat straight off the gun may be none too flash.. in which case i would flag the satin finish and carry out in a similar manner to the starlet.

buffing a matt paint makes it look yuck

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