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On 20/09/2021 at 16:37, cletus said:

Yep, will need clamps if pressure is over 60psi on a pushlock fitting 

Thats interesting, some brands of Pushlock hose state not to use clamps/crimps as the barb geometry can damage the hose.

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I didnt actually know about pushlock needing clamps until this lockdown actually, was trying to find suitable hose for my own car that doesnt crack and perish, many of the hose manufacturers recommended clamps if over x temp or pressure  

What you mention makes sense though , you wouldn't want to use clamps that put too much pressure on the hose and cut it 

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Hey Guys - Just been talking to the cert guy for the rust repairs on my corolla, and says I need to get a vin assigned to the car.
Problem is, the shell is back on the rotisserie and the places I have talked to want me to take it to them an hour away.

Now I'll suck it up and take if I have to, it but just checking if this can be done remotely or by a mobile service if anyone knows?

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On 21/09/2021 at 20:42, NickJ said:

Thats interesting, some brands of Pushlock hose state not to use clamps/crimps as the barb geometry can damage the hose.

Pretty sure I read somewhere that Aeroflow recommend clamps on their pushlock fittings if it's over X degrees hotness.

 

 

EDIT: LOL just noticed I have basically just said the same as Cletus

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1 hour ago, AALAWS said:

Hey Guys - Just been talking to the cert guy for the rust repairs on my corolla, and says I need to get a vin assigned to the car.
Problem is, the shell is back on the rotisserie and the places I have talked to want me to take it to them an hour away.

Now I'll suck it up and take if I have to, it but just checking if this can be done remotely or by a mobile service if anyone knows?

I've had a vin assigned by VTNZ for my project car (a US import) without them seeing it in person. I just took photos.

The VIN tag hasn't been made/attached yet. 

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Having some roll centre adjusters machined for my gx61. Do they need a central locating ring like this 

IMG_3247-1024x683.jpg.a5d9149c941b3254387bc15942287dfa.jpg

Or are these fine i-img600x450-16324747144ulob533498.jpg.0af156646cf485afd6f3fb7bd84c8a4e.jpg

Is there a maximum thickness Im allowed also.

Here is the front suspension design with the steering arm sandwhiched between stub axle and ball joint 381d445823b0c4e0cdc561068bf0bdd1.png.8e918e703ee1997c74145110c847d6ae.png1a635b01b9f9fa5896b1de011200f135.png.a4707fd77ec170317efe017db17a2bb6.png

 

 

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Mine are like the second set, my certifier seemed happy enough. Worth checking with yours. My steering arm only has the locating rings around the bolts (IIRC), so that spacer copied that design.

Test the height with washers, too thick and you may find the arm hitting the brake rotors. I found that anyway. I do have much larger rotors than factory though.

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On 24/09/2021 at 18:26, Nominal said:

I've had a vin assigned by VTNZ for my project car (a US import) without them seeing it in person. I just took photos.

The VIN tag hasn't been made/attached yet. 

Either they have changed the rules, or you struck it lucky? The VTNZ people I talked to said they have to see the car on their property so that's it for me.
 

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22 minutes ago, AALAWS said:

Either they have changed the rules, or you struck it lucky? The VTNZ people I talked to said they have to see the car on their property so that's it for me.
 

VTNZ are very good at being useless sometimes 

talk to land transport about it and see where that goes 

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9 hours ago, dspec_tt131 said:

Having some roll centre adjusters machined for my gx61. Do they need a central locating ring like this 

IMG_3247-1024x683.jpg.a5d9149c941b3254387bc15942287dfa.jpg

Or are these fine i-img600x450-16324747144ulob533498.jpg.0af156646cf485afd6f3fb7bd84c8a4e.jpg

Is there a maximum thickness Im allowed also.

Here is the front suspension design with the steering arm sandwhiched between stub axle and ball joint 381d445823b0c4e0cdc561068bf0bdd1.png.8e918e703ee1997c74145110c847d6ae.png1a635b01b9f9fa5896b1de011200f135.png.a4707fd77ec170317efe017db17a2bb6.png

 

 

Those spacers must have the same spigot system as the arms do

There isn't a maximum height but that's because they usually are not that big, around 40mm is the most common size from memory 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Regarding Datsun 720 replica scratchbuilt (registered year 202x)


Rear vision mirror q, if I have a reversing camera, do I need an interior rear view mirror?

I have put on door mirrors too, and part of their rear vision is blocked by the tray, but this is fairly common on utes? You can still see down the side of the tray, but only on part of the mirror if this makes sense.
I am thinking of maybe making some blocks at some point to space them out a little bit, but in the meantime is this ok?

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 07/10/2021 at 08:05, WhangareiKE70 said:

Regarding Datsun 720 replica scratchbuilt (registered year 202x)


Rear vision mirror q, if I have a reversing camera, do I need an interior rear view mirror?

I have put on door mirrors too, and part of their rear vision is blocked by the tray, but this is fairly common on utes? You can still see down the side of the tray, but only on part of the mirror if this makes sense.
I am thinking of maybe making some blocks at some point to space them out a little bit, but in the meantime is this ok?

@cletus can I ask is this a cert or a wof issue? If it's a WOF issue, do you know who the WOF people on here are? 

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The virm has just been updated to say cameras can be used in place of mirrors, but it would need to be on all the time the car is on, not just in reverse.

https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/vision/rear-view-mirrors
 

Your 720 Is class NA (Ute) so must have a right side and either an interior OR left side mirror.

(See tables and images in the link above)

New flat deck utes usually get spacers/extensions for the wing mirrors.

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4 hours ago, WhangareiKE70 said:

@cletus can I ask is this a cert or a wof issue? If it's a WOF issue, do you know who the WOF people on here are? 

Sorry I missed your first post

 

S/b vehicle requires one interior rear view mirror, and a drivers side outer mirror minimum

If an interior mirror is not effective due to body shape etc, then outer mirrors on both sides. 

They must be capable of doing the job of a mirror, so they have to be able to see what's behind you, not wobble around with vibrations or wind etc  

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On 15/10/2021 at 16:47, AllTorque said:

New flat deck utes usually get spacers/extensions for the wing mirrors.

Yes, that's the plan atm if the wing mirrors aren't acceptable as they are, getting some aluminium bar stock abd making some basic extensions for the ones I have. 

On 15/10/2021 at 16:47, AllTorque said:

The virm has just been updated to say cameras can be used in place of mirrors, but it would need to be on all the time the car is on, not just in reverse.

That would be a problem for me as i am using the screen that it would be displayed on as my dash cluster too so that's all good. 
It isn't a major anyway, I have the rear vision mirror, just thought it might tidy up the interior a bit to not have it, as it doesn't see a huge amount with the spare mounted to the headboard.

 

On 15/10/2021 at 18:00, cletus said:

Sorry I missed your first post

 

S/b vehicle requires one interior rear view mirror, and a drivers side outer mirror minimum

If an interior mirror is not effective due to body shape etc, then outer mirrors on both sides. 

They must be capable of doing the job of a mirror, so they have to be able to see what's behind you, not wobble around with vibrations or wind etc  

Haha all good, I appreciate it mate.

I will be running both door mirrors (and as above maybe spacing them out a bit). Will throw the rear vision mirror on as I do have it and it does provide a limited amount of rear vision, and if money allows before it goes in for cert I may run a second rear vision camera that can be on at all times to a rear vision mirror screen thing (like this https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/rear-view-cameras/listing/3303739906),

If I go for something like the above I get the added advantage of having a dashcam built in, and I can change the angle of the one connected to the dash screen to be more of a towing camera with the towball in view, and just have it on a switch.   

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Hopefully a nice easy one. Current top hats have long bolts. If I want to space the strut down, is it acceptable to just have a ring of 10mm aluminum machined with the top hat bolts passing through? Size would match the size of camber plate that currently contacts car body, with the center hole matching the factory hole. Seems legit to me, but I think my certifier will cry if he sees me again before I want to book it in. (lots of complications). Down to a few things before cert and think the car is too low to pass, this is just a relatively easy way around it it needed. TIA

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