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Hey guys,

I'm after a bit of clarification on the driveshaft loop thickness requirements. Been trolling this for a while but can't really find anything to confirm.

The lvvta states "Material Specifications:
A drive-shaft safety-loop should be made from either flat-section material at least 50 mm x 5 mm, or tubular-
section material of at least 22 mm x 3 mm."

Now what I want too know is can I cut, roll and weld some 3mm sheet to the required diameter and this is fine?

Also can the mounting brackets be 3mm material as long as they have the required contact area or do they have to be 5mm?

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9 minutes ago, Escortn said:

Hey guys,

I'm after a bit of clarification on the driveshaft loop thickness requirements. Been trolling this for a while but can't really find anything to confirm.

The lvvta states "Material Specifications:
A drive-shaft safety-loop should be made from either flat-section material at least 50 mm x 5 mm, or tubular-
section material of at least 22 mm x 3 mm."

Now what I want too know is can I cut, roll and weld some 3mm sheet to the required diameter and this is fine?

Also can the mounting brackets be 3mm material as long as they have the required contact area or do they have to be 5mm?

Sketch of what you are thinking? 

If it's like the pic below then it needs to be 50x5mm

image.png.44568538fe7e2d9399fb09658e25cc82.png

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5 minutes ago, Nominal said:

Sketch of what you are thinking? 

If it's like the pic below then it needs to be 50x5mm

image.png.44568538fe7e2d9399fb09658e25cc82.png

Pretty much that pic but instead of using 5mm wall thickness linepipe I'd roll some 3mm to the same diameter and weld the ends together, would that count as "tubular section"

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There is one exception:
“3. A vehicle first registered anywhere between 1 February 1977 and 31 March 1980 may be fitted with a second pair of dipped-beam headlamps”

My guess is the VTNZ guys assumed it was originally like that.

Here are the rules  https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/lighting/headlamps

Edited by AllTorque
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  • 2 weeks later...

Wondering if someone has a smart idea (cert happy)to overcome my engine fouling on bonnet/seat in my liteace. I planned on dropping the engine but I don't want the sump to be lowest point of van and it's actually ideal where it is.

Snapchat-1001938111.thumb.jpg.5b9134453f6b7348838e6df022863b86.jpg

an idea I had was spacing the entire lot up with a 15-20mm flat bar continuously around red line with holes drilled so everything uses original fastener holes with longer bolts. Is there an alternative material that could be used that's a bit easier for average Joe to bend 

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Would probably be easier  cert wise to put a lump in to clear the part you need to, or move the engine, rather than space the whole thing up

This is a common problem with 1uz into hiaces, the throttle body hits the lid right under the drivers seat/ buckle anchorage. The best way to sort those out is move the throttle body to the other side 

 

This is a fairly common issue with certs- people will modify safety related things to clear non safety related things, and create issues for cert later . Like instead of modifying a sump, moving the rack instead or cutting big lumps out of crossmembers 

 

Is it hitting the timing cover only? 

 

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I did look for an off the shelf shortened and winged sump and pickup as I read they have ground clearance issues putting 4age into the lotus 7 kit cars but couldn't find anything. It's a mater of the least amount of work which is modding seat rather than new mounts and sump/pickup.

I could cut a slot the running same direction as timing cover and still be atleast 100mm away from seatbelt mount and seat rail which is the only mounting on left side of drivers seat?

There's an additional skin below which has a bulge in exactly the wrong place which isn't helpful 

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