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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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Wof-men:

Is a cracked serpentine belt a wof failure of it's own accord?

Has been crossed as a fail under the Steering Components section, however the car has electro-hydraulic power steering with absolutely no belt or engine connection.

 

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On hydraulic power steering a cracked belt is a fail. Some WOF inspectors may argue if the alternator belt breaks, your electric power steer will stop working and fail a cracked belt. I wouldn’t fail it, so it’s one of those interpretation things.

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What’s the go with welding a plate to the chassis rail as a base to build an engine mount off?

whats the guide lines for size and if it maybe must have a fold around the rail so it’s not just welded on one face?

 

i had a look under engine conversion and suspension systems sections but couldnt find anything about the chassis mounts.

Factory location On the chassis is to far forward and needs to be removed to clear thermostat and moved PS pump.

can see motor mount location in yellow

i would be happy with something bolt on but there’s no holes for access inside the frame. So for that I would guess I’d need to drill right through and add crush tubes anyway?

 

 

edit: sorted. 

81F742C4-FAF7-40B2-B029-F762CD7E0C38.jpeg

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Stumbling my way thew Lift kits for the coil spring independent front end modern day 4x4. Think ranger, Prado etc... 

I can see spring spacers and ball joint spacers are just terrible. Not the way to go. 

A lot of vehicles in AU solve the issue with replacement upper control arms a better way to go (imo) To regain the geometry lost in the lifting. 

Do we have any brands of upper control arms that are passed into out system here in NZ that have ticked the box's and are ok to use ? 

 

 

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The problem is the arms dont correct the geometry apart from maybe correcting caster and camber problems at the new ride height, so while they allow the vehicle to be lifted more  the pivot points are all in the same places so the geometry still sucks. 

 

None of the common late model ifs things take a lift very well in my opinion 

 

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On 17/08/2020 at 23:12, Ashkellybarr said:

What’s the go with welding a plate to the chassis rail as a base to build an engine mount off?

whats the guide lines for size and if it maybe must have a fold around the rail so it’s not just welded on one face?

 

i had a look under engine conversion and suspension systems sections but couldnt find anything about the chassis mounts.

Factory location On the chassis is to far forward and needs to be removed to clear thermostat and moved PS pump.

can see motor mount location in yellow

i would be happy with something bolt on but there’s no holes for access inside the frame. So for that I would guess I’d need to drill right through and add crush tubes anyway?

 

 

edit: sorted. 

81F742C4-FAF7-40B2-B029-F762CD7E0C38.jpeg

New mount has to span the height of the rail so that can either be a new bracket the same height, or you can weld a plate on and build a mount off that 

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Hi friends.. What's the go with trailers? Went and had a look at a car transporter tonight, guy selling was a full flat peaking neck tattooing dodgy cunt with a bunch of boganed early 2000 cars on the street. Trailer had reg but no wof and had the plates swapped not long ago and hasn't been reported stolen on carjam. How do I know if its legit or not as it seemed like a lot of trailer for not much money (3k) and he seemed very keen for me to take it tonight.. 

 

Felt dodgy af.. 

 

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I picked up an old Cadillac off FB that I would like to put through entry compliance and enjoy. It had all new front bushes with zerks and new seals when it was imported 24 years ago but now the rubber dust caps  have perished although the suspension is tight because it has only been for the odd blat up the road since replaced. Will the missing dust covers/seals trip me up when I put it through compliance if I take them off or is it more a case of if everything is tight they will be happy? Bushings themselves are not rubber. 

Car was first registered in the US in 1954, if I am reading the legislation correctly it won't need seatbelts as on the road prior to Jan/1955 even if not in NZ? I hope this is the case as has jump seats that would be a pain to deal with.

I had previously read that an imported car has to be registered by the person that imported it and can't be sold for 6 months. Is this still the go or is a paper trail sweet to show where it come from?

Cheers.

 

 

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Hi @cletus hope you're well

Hopefully another quicky for you :) Do you see any issues with this notch at all? Keeping in mind that it will also get plug welded and fish plated.
It's made out of 10 Gauge CRS, I have the car construction manual but it doesn't really go into deal on C notches.

https://www.murraykustomrods.com/store.php#!/1949-1954-Chevy-Car-C-Notch/p/124962205/category=32296533

Thanks :)

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