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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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OK- took Viva for Woof pre cert and was told by testers there that my wheels might not get a cert. They usually deal with Don Hoff there and apparently he doesn't like widened steels, wants them stripped, x ray tested etc etc.

I've just been out for a test drive in Viva after tightening hub bearings. I drove to blenheim car parts and while showing Geoff the car he spotted the wheels and said " ohhh you won't get them certed, it'll be a pain and they'll want to strip them every time its for a warrant cause they can crack where they are welded etc. Lots of sucking through teeth...

Hmmm what to do? Anyone on this here forum with widened steels had any problems? Should I just swap them everytime I go for a wof - put on my old 13 x 4.5" wheels. Would the police spot them as being widened? If so I'll need another set of bloody tyres :rolleyes:

Anyone know what Wayne Martin is like on widened steels? Billy and his mate reckon that the fella who I was going to get it cert'd through, Kendall Bradley, works through Don Hoff so thats no bloody good.

I'd rather get it all cert'd and keep it legit then have to piss about swapping them.

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trucks reg as light vehicles- i dont know tbh. best speak to someone at NZTA about that one, i think you can reg a campervan as a light vehicle if its over 3.5 tonne but dont know what the regs are.

wide steels, can be certed, if they are an old modification that you dont know who did them, then they should be stripped/checked/crack tested for cert, other option is supply a reciept from a reputable place that did the widening . its not a case of "X" certifier not liking them, its on the wheels checksheet we have to fill out. once the car is certed you dont have to check them again at every wof or anything like that. if they are welded properly theres no reason for them to crack where they are widened

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OK- so where can I get them tested? What's involved in the testing- ie is it a visual thing or do they actually x ray them. Or use dye. Anywhere in Nelson? Or can I get my old workplace, Cuddon engineering, to have an engineer look over them tick them off? Would that suffice?

What a bloody ball ache! :(

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Would these fabricated knuckles be able to be certified? Would they need to be x-rayed/otherwise tested?

They're made from scratch in the UK (not modified factory parts), and mount the hub 50mm higher (relative to the chassis) than stock.

DriftworksHubUprights800.jpg

more info here: http://www.driftworks.com/shop/car-parts/suspension/steering/driftworks-geomaster-hubs.html

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cletus: what's the deal with seatbelt mounts. my car from factory has them mounted on top of the folded sheet metal sliding rails. read: flimsy.

I've got my own 4mm angle iron fixed rails. seatbelt buckle is mounted to that. the rest is standard. IMO, and the opinion of 3 wof guys previous, much stronger than factory (never had probs getting it wofd sans cert). would this go through cert or am I best adding some to the tunnel. if so, what's the regime for a plate and captive nut underneath the floorpan for this?

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Am i right in thinking you can remove rear seats as long as you also remove the belts? Just wondering what i can take out in terms of weight reduction.

yes seats and belts can be removed without a cert.

cletus: what's the deal with seatbelt mounts. my car from factory has them mounted on top of the folded sheet metal sliding rails. read: flimsy.

I've got my own 4mm angle iron fixed rails. seatbelt buckle is mounted to that. the rest is standard. IMO, and the opinion of 3 wof guys previous, much stronger than factory (never had probs getting it wofd sans cert). would this go through cert or am I best adding some to the tunnel. if so, what's the regime for a plate and captive nut underneath the floorpan for this?

got a pic? if the angle iron is bolted to the original seat mounts, and the buckle is mounted straight to the angle iron, should be sweet if its in the right position ie not too far foward.

if need be the lvv standard is here- http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards ... orages.pdf

page 22 onwards for doubler plate requirements

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got a pic? if the angle iron is bolted to the original seat mounts, and the buckle is mounted straight to the angle iron, should be sweet if its in the right position ie not too far foward.

if need be the lvv standard is here- http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards ... orages.pdf

page 22 onwards for doubler plate requirements

no pic right now, but, yeah. angle iron bolts to seat mounts on floor. seat belt buckle bolts in similar spot to factory one but on the angle iron.

cheers for link

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OK- so where can I get them tested? What's involved in the testing- ie is it a visual thing or do they actually x ray them. Or use dye. Anywhere in Nelson? Or can I get my old workplace, Cuddon engineering, to have an engineer look over them tick them off? Would that suffice?

What a bloody ball ache!

Could try Safe Air at Woodbourne, they do heaps of NDT. Not sure about private jobs but worth an ask!!

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hey got some brembos to fit on my hubs and was going to make adapter plates for them ,was wondering what the rules are for the thickness of the metal ect for the adapters

cheers :wink:

depends on the design of the bracket. there is no minimum thickness- did you have an idea of what you were going to use? is the bracket going to be straight/flat or is the caliper offset from the hub mount?

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will soon be getting around to redoing my chassis rail mods (gone rusty from being neglected)

whats the deal with me re-making a section of rail

ie

46861_463979809765_530014765_6374813_4877235_n.jpg

you can see ive chopped a bit out and will be making it a different shape from some rhs, will be sleeved, but and plug (hehehe) welded

does this shit need testing or will heaps of photos before painting be ok?

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are you able to register a ~6-7000kg GVM vintage truck as 3490kg GVM and run it on wofs if it's being used primarily as a classic type dealio?

found out some info about this.

camper up to 3750kg can be on WOF instead of COF

dunno if theres any exemptions for classic, or vintage trucks though

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