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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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hi Clint hi.

 

I noticed in Jarred's Escort thread you have noted some pedal boxes are not suitable for cert purposes. I'm looking at running with Wilwood part # 340-11299 for my car (reverse swing top mount with dual master cylinders) can you advise what determines what is legal and what isn't so we don't make a costly mistake?

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a complete pedal box from a reputable company like wilwood or tilton will be fine.

 

theres some around that are no brand name ones that have various issues, like pedal welded together, material size not up to spec, welds that are not that good etc.

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regarding the steering shaft question, the forum is being dumb and wont let me post quotes

 

there is about a page and a half on steering shafts in the hobby car manual, unfortunately its not available online and it would take me ages to type it all out.

but basically if its a straight shaft that has splines on each end its fairly easy. the book suggests SAE 4130 as an ideal material for a steering shaft.

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caddy susp q-

ladder bar rear ends have come under a lot more scrutiny recently, a high profile car in auckland had a mishap a couple of years ago because of a broken ladder bar. now to get one legal it has to meet several requirements, one of which is to only have a minimal amount of suspension travel, so that rules out an air bag suspension

 

IMO a ladder bar/2 link style suspension on a street driven vehicle is a cock up, as it either needs to flex somewhere, or it turns the whole rear end into a swingarm and lifts the inside tyre off the ground when you corner hard ish. watch a few drag car crash videos on youtube and you will see what i mean

 

there are some exceptions, like 60s chev trucks, but its hard to replicate that sort of thing easily

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Hi Cletus,

 

In regards to the Driveshaft loops, for when they are bolted through the floor with doubler plates, how far apart Ideally would you like to see the M10 Bolts - 2 per side?, and do they have to have nyloc's or split washer + nut. 

 

Also do you mind if the doubler plates on the inside are cut & welded/bent to shape of the floorpan - and thoughts on welding them to the floor as well?

 

Many thanks, Chris

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bolt distance- there isnt a rule, i would space them so it "looks right"

shaping the plate to match the floor is good

lock washers or nylocs are fine

if you weld them, i would just do a couple of plug welds, or short welds on the outside, not all the way round

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In terms of drop spindles do these sound like they will be acceptable??

Im struggling to find a spindle that will work with my already purchased brake kit which works with 14" wheels. 

This one will work by the sounds so hopefully its acceptable.

 

These 2" drop spindle are for use when you want to lower your disc brake converted car a full 2".

The spindles are precision cast from high quality Ductile Iron, with 4140 Chrom-moly CNC machined pins and accepts factory ball-joints and stock steering arms.

These are the best engineered, and best fitting drop spindles available for your vintage Chevy!

 

http://www.classicindustries.com/impala/parts/bs7001.html

 

Link there if you want a pic or anything

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So iv fitted and wired up a set of daytime running lamps to the hilux. I brought this set because they also have an indicator strip built in (hilux had none) They work fine and switch off when the headlights are on.

Problem is that when the headlights are off and I indicate the DRL alternates between white and yellow.

Is this legal?

I guess if it's not, I can wire up the headlight on wire into the ignition switched 12v+. Then I won't have DRL just indicators

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What would be required to get a cert if I just dumped a 4AGE and K50 from 3A into my starlet?

 

If all your work is up to scratch then it wouldn't be hard. Unless your certifier decided that standard Starlet brakes weren't up to the job. Other than that, just driveshaft hoops I think?

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I'd get my brother to do the welding for any mounts and whatnot, he has his tickets and stuff. So basically, swap tailhousing on gearbox, drop motor and box in (do some wiring and plumbing) and put driveshaft hoop on? (Assuming running carbs)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello experts. 

 

A company in Australia has started producing coilover conversion kits for DR30s which eliminate front bump steer and rear droop travel issues commonly associated with the standard "mickey mouse" method of converting R30s to use S13 adjustable coilovers.

 

I would like to get some for my sedan, but have no idea if they are even certable, let alone what is required for them to pass any form of safety test.

 

Have spoken to the guy in charge of the project (who races his own DR30 competitively) and he's happy to provide schematics and other technical details, and can answer any questions if needed.

 

http://www.brysport.com/shop.html

 

This kit has specificaly been devloped for DR30 Skylines (will also fit R30 and HR30).

 

The front tie rod end allows an S13 knuckle to be used (and therefore S13 Coilovers) and the bump steer inherent when using the S13 knuckle to be dialled out through the use of shims. Using 4130 steel and aircraft qualtity spherical bearings, this kit is perfect for race use.

 

The rear part of the kit bolts directly to your rear S13 Coilover strut top, converting the 2 bolt to 3 bolt, and allowing your car to run standard amounts of droop travel in the suspension.

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Hi Cletus

 

I know ive asked this question before but i come back with a picture showing the semi final product/example. This is in regards to moving the petrol tank in a mk2 escort van from under the floor in the rear, to the inside cabin. This would be half sunk in the floor and half poking out, using a sedan tank and fixtures etc. Picture is where the petrol tank would be located (on the right at the rear). Can this be done legally without a cert? Would it make a difference if i made a box/casing for it?

 

ccwad2b.jpg

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated

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