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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/08/21 in Posts

  1. Main inner core done. 75kg It removes from the patterns so much easier than last time. Now need to do the largest one at 230kg. No idea how thats going to go! Added a lift point as that helped last time.
    17 points
  2. Did the bellhousing part using the mortar mixer. Gave me atleast a 45min work time on a hot day. Probably 3x as long as the last resin system. Picked up a 6cuft concrete mixer. El Camino for scale. Mixed 70kg for the runner system mould without much issue. Wasnt a perfect mix but I have time to leave it mixing for quite a bit longer. So will try that first.
    17 points
  3. Bags packed for a no stopping pickup from Brock lee.
    10 points
  4. Not much progress at the moment, waiting on some transmission bearings and case sealant to arrive but other things are under way. I sourced some of these things Which will let me use the bigger one of these. Stock on the SR is a 28mm carby, dirt 200 is 35mm. The SR has oil injection through a port in the inlet rubber, the new inlet I will use doesn't have this as the 35mm carbs are used on premix only bikes. So I'll drill an unused boss on the carb and feed it in through there.
    5 points
  5. Runner system pattern complete. Re sprayed everything with the better mould release. All patterns ready to go now. Next will be testing out the new sand resin system to figure out ratios and work times. Dont really want to go all in with a 200kg batch first go!
    4 points
  6. Getting the essentials together
    3 points
  7. You need to stop in at Hunterville bottle shop again Matthew to see what behind the counter bargains they have saved for you. PS if any one hasn’t run the figures yet, the result is that this weekend is going to be neat ok.
    3 points
  8. Bit of progress, parts arriving and seam welding under way...
    3 points
  9. Linkage kit installed I need to shorten the balancing tab between carbs to fit the front one on. I need to grind down the boss on the second runner so the carbs can slide back, would also like to shave 5mm off both surfaces of manifold to gain 10mm clearance from carbs to van body (currently both flanges are 13mm thick each and overall manifold 54mm thick.
    2 points
  10. 1 point
  11. Sistema full of tomato money
    1 point
  12. What a baller. Where's the 9mm?
    1 point
  13. Yeah, I would assume so. More air = more fuel combined with stock oil flow would make a weaker fuel oil mix. Was thinking I would run it premix to start with and do some measurements on the oil injection pump. It has some adjustment in it so will see if I can get more flow, it may only adjust when it goes full open but we'll have a look anyway.
    1 point
  14. Will you need to add a but more oil metering to compensate for bigger carb?
    1 point
  15. Have head. Ports are far better design the ironhead currently fitted. Will price up options of bigger valves etc before i go too crazy on cleaning up the throats and reshaping chambers. also soooooo much lighter.
    1 point
  16. So in echo related updates, Picking up the new wheels from swap meet this weekend, big thanks to @Goat who is bringing them along! I also picked up box full of C56 internals including a torsen LSD. Big thanks to my mate Ken for this. LSD will be glorious! But I have a decision to make. The "proper" way to install it is to sit the box on a bench with bellhousing facing down. Then disassemble the box from the far side and remove the gearsets and detents and everything to eventually get to the ring gear and diff center. But this is like, you've got some food stuck in your teeth but you can only reach it by sticking a broom up your arse. There's a bodgey way where you can remove the front cover only, looks fiddly as fuck but saves a big headache (maybe) So I'll give this method a try on my C152 box first to test the practicality of it. I hate working on gearboxes so I'm torn between taking the long/proper way, or the potentially short but fiddly way. Historically speaking, trying to take any shortcuts usually leads to misery and having to do things the proper way anyway. Also my alternator situation has been nothing short of a miserable headache that's stopping me from driving the car currently. It was fine when I first installed the bracket and tensioner, but it would squeak a little bit sometimes. Eventually my shitty tensioner broke, so I made a better one with the aim of eliminating the squeak. Didnt work, it still sqoke. Rechecked belt alignment, fine tuned it to be as exact as I could. Pinged belt up tighter. Squeals like a stuck pig. Eventually my alternator bracket broke. So I got the local workshop to jizz it back up with some welds. Then it was fine for a little bit, then started squealing in an incredibly annoying manner and hasnt stopped since. I found that the bracket had bent, for I think the same reason it broke initially. The alternator has a sliding sleeve of sorts that pulls inwards to tighten the alternator to the bracket, where the bolt threads in. If it's a bit rusty (they all are) it doesnt move too freely, so takes a lot of force to pull it back in. I CRCd it a bunch and hammered it in and out to free it up a bit. But when you crank the shit out of it to tighten it up, it's trying to crush my bracket before its trying to pull that end bit in. Also I think another potential problem is that the original motor has 3 accessories on it. Aircon pump, waterpump, then alternator. The belt path means theres maybe 190-200 deg worth of belt wrap on the alternator. But if you run just from the pulley to the alternator, there's only ~160ish degrees of belt wrap. So then you need to tighten the belt heaps to try make up for it - then you have issues with things bending or breaking especially when rpm is high and maybe some harmonics stuff coming into play. Then the short belt length probably doesnt help either. So at the moment I'm torn between trying again with another alternator bracket, or just calling it quits on this motor. Evenutally I need/want to get an NHW20 prius motor so I can run VVTI, bolts to gearbox properly, and then I can use the factory bracket to fit an alternator on. With extra belt wrap and belt length because it's back to a mechanical waterpump. But I'd like to compare notes to this existing engine first, hopefully get both on a dyno and see how much difference the compression ratio difference makes (or not) The NHW20 motor is funny because the only thing running off the accessory belt is the waterpump, which then runs on the non V side of the belt. So the only thing running on the Vs of the belt is an idler where the alternator usually goes... But it can definitely fit an alternator there, as the block is the same part number as a normal 1NZ motor. Pretty frustrated at the moment as it's a really unfun sort of problem to deal with, and I dont really have any tools or ability to fix it myself.
    1 point
  17. 1 point
  18. And that's why this one is going to be worth big bucks to late 90s Nissan foamers with a soft spot for 2000s car mods
    1 point
  19. I think you're doing Y10 all wrong. I find the key to successful Y10 ownership is to neglect them in every aspect. It seems to create some kind of automotive "treat em mean keep them keen" situation.
    1 point
  20. I havnt had a fan on this for a while as all my viscous are either siezed or nof doinh anything so i took it off so it didnt sound like a van Carfully route planning and nof sitting in traffic was the key to not overheating it. Anyways. I had the radiator record recently and at the same time i got the shop to put a bung for a temp switch in. So tonight i put an electric fan in it Its actually out of a 1992 galant out in field
    1 point
  21. Oh yeah! Rebuilt and sleeved to standard spec by Powerstop, so hopefully we should feel ALL the dual-diaphragm assisted Chrysler luxuriousness a poor man needs
    1 point
  22. Doing 2 sprues/filters on this one which each feed one side of the casting. There will be more volume but also the mould is higher with no basin which will give more pressure. Completed the box. Quicker and cleaner than the last one. Next will be the runner system pattern/box.
    1 point
  23. Note: as long as the bike is ready to go. Last time I picked up Yowzer I turned up to his house and watched him sit down and eat a full meal before we carried on our way.
    1 point
  24. @Snoozin @sentra @Snoozin @sentra @Snoozin @sentra @Snoozin @sentra @Snoozin @sentra @Snoozin @sentra @Snoozin @sentra @Snoozin @sentra @Snoozin @sentra @Snoozin @sentra
    1 point
  25. holy heck, 3 days away!! Catch you all in the Lounge Bar at the Ding !!
    1 point
  26. Fenders Painted and Fitted Up. Fitted up a moon disc to the alloy wheel too. And the Painted peaked bonnet.
    1 point
  27. Time to have another go Got almost a ton of sand, new resin system and a new insulating spray for the moulds (meant to help big thin castings). Planning to use a concrete mixer to do larger batches. Doing some repairs to the damaged patterns. Drilled holes in the print and injected concrete epoxy. Also adding a few bond on thread plates to hopefully get a slide hammer on.
    1 point
  28. Trans adapter time. As mentioned earlier the 722.6 doesn't bolt up to a M180/M127/M129/M130 engine even through the bolt patterns look very similar (with the inline engine version of a 722.6 bellhousing at least). So I had a conundrum on how to go about this, taking into consideration things like starter location, ring gear location, keeping things concentric, making sure the torque convertor is seated once its all together etc. There's several things that ended up providing the answer for me. Firstly the starter; On the M130 the starter is on the right hand side of the engine, the factory sandwich plate that sits between the engine and gearbox has a provision for the starter. however on the 722.6 trans the starter clearance bulge is on the the left hand side. So which side of the motor do you want your starter? if you scroll up a post of two you'll see the oil filter housing sits on the left hand side of the motor, right where the starter would be, so you can't make use of the 722.6s starter mount. In which case you're now using the engines OG starter, which means you'll want to keep the ring gear in the original location... So I yoinked the manual trans off that engine and too some measurements and drew some circles in Fusion360 Then realized I'd mucked up the overall diameter of the thing, luckily this was prior to sending away files to the laser cutters. Sent some files off and they sent back some lumps of metal Have a 12mm spacer for the end of the crank, and a 3mm thick flexplate, plan is to scavenge one of the ring gears off the manual flywheels I have and weld that to the flexplate. I spent a rainy Sunday attempting to measure the bolt pattern for both the engine and the trans and had a test piece cut out of 3mm plate at the same time (the disc on the left) if my measurements were right I was going to get a thicker one cut and run that but you can see from the ticks and crosses on it only about a 1/3 of the holes lined up. Ended up getting a 12mm thick piece laser cut (the disc on the right) that utilized one of the factory dowel pins on the trans, that was to be my starting point. clamped precariously in place, the OD was large enough to blank off the now unneeded starter bulge on the left hand side Went around and marked out the holes I'd be using that didn't clash with any of the holes I would need on the sandwich plate, tapped one of them using the shitty tap set I had before buying a Volkel tap set based on someone on heres recommendation, holy moley did that improve my outlook on life. Whoever made that recommendation deserves an ice cream. Ended up here: Jealous of my phone? Whilst doing that the torque convertor was sitting on the bench next to the trans, at some point I moved the trans and knocked the converter onto the floor which caused a drama for later on but we won't talk about that. Did some maths at this point. Decided if I wanted to run a 12mm thick adapter plate I'd need to reduce the thickness of the sandwich plate by ~11mm, a buddy came through and was able to do that for me, I have a spare plate if this doesn't work out, comparing the two post surgery: That's the relatively easy side done, next step was to join that to the engine whilst keeping the trans concentric to the crank (well as much as I could anyway). There's a small win here in that the OD of the pilot on the torque convertor is the same as the ID on the end of that crank where the pilot bearing would normally go for the original manual trans (35mm). I carried this measurement over to the ID of the crank spacer so the Torque convertor could locate on it, the spacer picks up the OG dowel pin on the end of the crank so based on that assumption of it being a straight line I bolted the spacer up to the crank and slid the trans up to it, docking the torque convertor pilot in the hole. Took a brave pill and wiggled it so the trans looked straight up and down against the engine, rather than tipped to one side, and marked out the two holes for the starter then drilled and tapped those. Bolted everything back together, so far everything is lining up. took the trans off, leaving the adapter bolted to the sandwich plate on the engine, removed these two as one: Was then able to flip it over, mark out some holes and drill and tap those. Then the moment of truth, putting it all together... Booyah! that shit is attached. Had to do a bit of fettling but was bugger all. I need to change the blade on my vertical bandsaw so I can trim the excess off the OD of the adapter. Current issue is that its too tight between the flexplate and the converter, they rotate as one without being bolted together. We didn't get exactly 11mm off the plate when we machined it down, it ended up being about 11.2mm which I think is part of where the problem is, it's bringing the trans and engine too close together, in hindsight I probably should have aimed for 10mm. I think to get around this I might skim a bit off the end of the converter so it can sit further inside the bellhousing when seated, but I'm not sure how much clearance the input shaft of the trans should have inside the converter before it bottoms out, surely 1mm less isn't the end of the world? Anyone got any insight?
    1 point
  29. also had a go at 3d printing a drill guide with stanless inserts 4x108 to 4x114.3
    1 point
  30. Last few weeks have been productive..... Floor in, panels straightened and fitted, car dropped to painter to be rubbed back and fully primed and undersealed. It's now sitting at home, rust free and ready for seam sealing and getting it on it's wheels to mock up the engine.......
    1 point
  31. Ran a RWD 4G63 Turbo (with a stroker crank) in the 'Cosevo' Sierra Cosworth for a number of years. Ended up using a V164 Geartrag trans with custom flywheel and a 3 plate Satch clutch. For the road https://projectzerog.com/ has so much information.
    1 point
  32. Added power steering. No more struggling in carparks
    1 point
  33. So a long overdue update. Put car on a rotisserie for inspection, and not great news... Surprisingly for an EA coon there was some rust issues and the certed roll cage was, well, junk... Bends all had deformation/wrinkles, welding was sub par, and wall thickness was pretty thin... So this happened. ED? body shell bought locally for around 3 hundy. Bloke wanted to keep the engine so we yeeted that out for him, so easy with workshop crane... And front suspension was bent so new mounts etc need fabricated. Rally car block is in the engine shop but bloke there had a fucked Clevo block we used for a mock up. Apparently have exactly the same mounting dimensions as the windsor, which makes sense... So we lifted that in place to find the optimum position... And will make up mount modification blocks to suit... Body is actually in really good nick, and new roll cage is well under way... Proper steel, properly bent, properly mounted, and properly welded (not by me, obvs)... Owner looked at using a long crank/shorter pistons for rally torque, but got too hard with supply issues atm (even Summit couldn't find right parts) so he's ordered some pistons from Aus. Also new diff being built in Ch'ch after some bits were found to be missing... Think the axles are being modified too for rally use. So things are coming together, he's looking fwd to bolting the engine together and putting things back in the painted shell when that's done. Financially the initial purchase has not proved great, given all the gear being swapped, but he's philosophical bout that as it's given him an interest/something to work on. Old car life eh...
    1 point
  34. Got the camgear covers sent over. Looks like the real deal.
    1 point
  35. Washing the accumulated storage grim off Felicity revealed her lovely condition. Oh she looks good and I must admit a few caresses were shared as she was tucked back into the garage... With inspiration flowing the W50 gearbox and Pinto bellhousing was trial fitted. Success! As it came together nicely. Then I left my rubber arm a bit too close to the guys and ended up accidentally buying something... Why chose this jellybean shape of '90's excess...? Because YB Turbo. Hmmmm a little distraction, again. Thank goodness I have an understanding wife as I dragged this home.
    1 point
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