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The engine is a Suzuki GSF1250, so not a big hp R1, Busa type but the price was about a third the cost of a sport bike engine and it has a stacked gearbox which was gonna be useful. It still puts out 110-120hp with some easy mods but its main feature is torque, about 110NM which is all in by 4000rpm. Space was a big concern as these cars are tiny, 3m front to back, 1.295m side to side. From the rear axle to the back of the car is 50cm or something silly so I needed a compact engine to allow enough room for a diff, that's where the stacked gearbox helps as it makes the engine shorter front to back. I spent a while considering different configurations, putting it in front of the axle would make it easier to sort the drivetrain but there is still minimal room in that direction and I really didn't want to chop up the interior. This way around had some benefits but still not enough room. White tube at the bottom is the axle centre. Then I noticed the bumper sized space behind the headers.

Trans cooler mounted, shifter cable set up. Underneath looks pretty busy now but there's no other way of getting everything to work so meh. Ordered some sound deadner stuff for the floor before carpet goes in

I picked this little thing up ages ago from Fronte fiend @Goat, good things take time but I just fuck around heaps so I'm only now making some progress worth posting up. Hopefully some peer pressure will give extra motivation.

So I kind of went too full on with the throwbacks this year. not only acquiring a set of recaro fishnets and a stainless dumpy for the rotor conversion. I seemed to have impulse purchased myself a 89 bg8 Mazda gtx hatch, but in Rallycar steez. the body is immaculate condition, with a very well built cage, terratrip and terraphone already set up. 3 sets of rims and tyres and 2 spare motors and a host of other bits. score right???? well the car was sold with some “ lifter noise”. ok sure, that’s fine. I decided to pull the spare motors apart. motor 1 “run bottom end”… missing all lifters, hmmm. Head off for a look. Oh boy, pistons are umm smoked, ring lands are awol. bottom end however is mint. Block could be saved with a light hone, head has some heavy combustion chamber damage. To the parts shelf it goes. motor 2 “rebuilt motor but has lifter noise”…. missing lifters also, Dafuq. head off, wow looks like shit has gone through the motor aswell. Bottom end also mint. Could actually use these bearings aswell. motor 3 “ in the car, runs but lifter noise”. hla’s have lots of play. Pulled the sump to inspect. Bottom end is tight and super clean. No crap in the pan bar a small amount of sludge build up. turbo exhaust side has a fair amount of oil residue in there. I will replace all lifters in this motor and test it out. It starts so good, does die out because some numpty has cut the intake pipe too short to fit the restrictor, and isn’t sealing. False afm reading I guess. car has new discs and pads fitted. savage gauges, yup they’ll go straight to the bin. new alloy radiator too, full width dealio. new Silverster Hans spec belts and some sick stickers bro. Love the fit of the Racetech seats too. plans: sort the lifters etc, get it running like a boss. gain by msnz license finally and get an authority card. hopefully find a spare gearbox for it. go full send on some club stuff.

I have been keeping an eye on the lvvta docs but if you see anything whack let me know. Crush tubes for the engine subframe mounts Put the rear ones where the original engine subframe mounted Bending tube to fit The subframe isn't finished, I still have another engine mount I want to pick up and maybe tie it into the shock towers but for now it's enough to get it in.

Ive been continuing to pick away at the 7M motor. @Roman dave made me some prototype pistons to try out some things. with my big cams and increased lift there is still a million rooms between the valves and the pistons. im never going to keep this a non interference engine if im aiming for 11 to 1 so i might as well re-think the whole piston dome situation. all those years building stupid two stroke engines might just pay off after all........ upshot is that i can run bigger valves without any clearance issues - only thing limiting this really is the 5M head's fondness for cracking between the valves and the spark plug hole. the other thing ive done is to sort out the cambelt/front pulley drive on the front of the crank. 5Ms have a stepped crank at the front and the cam pulley has a larger internal diameter than the crank pulley, 7Ms do not, the 7M crank pulley is larger internal bore than the 5M. so i machined the front of the crank and cut a new keyway in the crank so i can run the 5M pulleys on the 7M crank. i did spend 2 hours machining the crank only to find that it was bent and the middle journal was running out by half a millimeter. i had a spare crank so i just used that in the end. 2022-04-10_04-22-50 by sheepers, on Flickr 2022-04-10_04-23-10 by sheepers, on Flickr 2022-04-10_04-22-58 by sheepers, on Flickr 2022-04-10_04-22-44 by sheepers, on Flickr 2022-04-10_04-22-30 by sheepers, on Flickr 2022-04-10_04-22-37 by sheepers, on Flickr 2022-04-10_04-22-22 by sheepers, on Flickr 2022-04-10_04-22-14 by sheepers, on Flickr

What an idiot, he could have probably made it that light just by swapping a 1NZ in

so that the engine side of the ecu all wired up and plugged in .. relays done for ecu main and coil packs... on advice from a mate I ran all 4 ITB runners to 1 vacuum manifold and ran FPR and MAP of that and I also ran brake booster aswell... so thats all vacume hoses done aswell.. still need to run wire to boost switch, boost solenoid , wideband o2 ,.. put a relay in the boot and wire fuel pump...and put ends on spark plug leads.... oh and get spark plugs... but then it might be time to try and fire the old girl up..

I got distracted with engine stuff. Pulling apart the sweet 3 cyl 2 stroke engine I found a blown bigend. I still intend on rebuilding it but after reading some cool builds on the net I bought one of these to go in first.

Mate I am only too happy to post extra graphs in this thread

Alright people, I have a strict Tuesday/Saturday upload schedule. So this video won't be searchable and public till Tuesday - I'd appreciate the link not being shared around till Tuesday. BUT for oldschool.co.ng members, I shall post it below. Mainly because @Roman and I have already watched it and are impatient. Please interact with the video if ya like it. Was very very very very fun to come and check out a car in it's natural? habitat. Okay, enough advertising my own film project in someones build thread. Here's the link:

V2. Find an unbent pair of the correct struts, strip, paint and reassemble. New shocks and fittings. The original rubber from the strut tops have been removed and replaced with poly. The 2 different strut bodies but look very similar. The correct mk2 escort in the foreground and the unknown in front. The tube diameter, caliper spacing, disk shield spacing, stub axles and heights all measures exactly the same.

There was a bit of rust in the plenum that needed sorting so I started poking around. View from the inside I cut it all out about 2 years ago and it's still in the same state.

needed to do som maintenance on the focus ... one of the rear wheel bearings was making a hell of a noise so thought I would just do both. you can but a complete hub with studs an all from any focus fiesta with 4 studs.... but replacment bearings where just Over 50bucks to my door..(I've git other projects draining my wallet). next was the thermostat housing..I thought it was leaking from the bung on the bottom (think it's for turbo coolant times on the rs) but turns out that the side of the seal place as gone the new one bought didn't have any of the holes drilled for temp sensor or bottom bung ...so figured it can't leak from there then. I doubled up on the temp sensor o ring then put the clip in ... and no leaks. gets up to temp quicker and the heater is amazing... think the old one was stuck open (191 odd thousand ks) as this is the 1st time the temp Gaughan gone to half way and stayed there ... use to hover around 1/4..

I've got most of the underseal off the underside. Starting off with the heat gun and some narrow paint scrapers with the corners ground off. Then wet it down with turps. I started off with kerosene, but it takes ages to evaporate. The turps seems to work better, it's the cheapest solvent I could find. $5 per L when you get it in 4L. It evaporates, but not as fast as thinners(which is super spendy from Mitre10). Agitate the wet turps with a brush and steel wool to dislodge/dissolve the underseal. Wet it down some more with the brush. Make a big mess on the floor. Then use a rag to wipe up all the dissolved underseal. Change the rag when you run out of clean sections. Repeat until no more underseal. I decided to remove all the bent strips of metal they use to hold the brake and fuel lines, etc... down. I'll put rivnuts in and use p-clips instead. I also did some panel beating along the bulkhead seams to tidy up the edges and make them sit flush. The spinning death wheel uncovered some pin holes around the front end of the drives side sill. So I went exploring. Looks like a really straightforward repair. I'll replace that section of inner sill and the little bit of floor. And I'll have to re-use the vent thingy and make a new outer sill section. Looks like 1.2mm... I'll have to get some. The 1.6mm I have is a bit overkill. The front end has kissed something once upon a time and the area below the headlight has been pushed in about 10mm. I've had a go bashing it out but it's not keen to move. The front panel is rusty all the way across behind the bumper lip and the bonnet slam panel doesn't look so good either. I can get the whole front panel for $300, it's not worth the effort trying to repair what's there. The small panel below the headlight also needs replacing, but it's not available separately. Hopefully I can get it cut from another one. It's all curvy so I'd rather not have to make one.

It's interesting to see the difference it makes, being less of a weiner with launch rpm. On my fastest run, launched at 7500 and then rpm dropped to about 6300 at minimum. (pink line) The last time I was launching at 4500ish, and engine speed dropped to 2300 haha. This probably wasnt my fastest last run, but yeah really need to keep that rpm up and allow for that it's going to bog a bit. These tyres are more happy to just keep spinning for a bit than bogging.

Yeah but I cant even take a photo of it, because the printing on it is super shit Type it out for you though. In brackets next to it, is my PB from last time R/T: .531 (.411) 60: 2.096 (2.182) 330': 5.689 (blank) 1/8: 8.682 (8.928) MPH: 81.12 (80.17) 1000': 11.276 (11.583) 1/4: 13.496 (13.832) MPH: 99.51 (99.65) I thought my 60ft was heaps better being "2.0" but 2.096 is pretty damn close to a 2.1 haha Only 0.086 seconds better! So maybe it is/was actually a power improvement, or the smaller tyre diameter helping out rather than an epic launch. It looks like most of the gains were actually in the 1/8th mile region

So now I had a spot for the engine I had to work out if I could get drive from it to the axles that goes in the right direction. I spent more time thinking, looking at pictures, measuring, reading forums, asking @yoeddynz questions, doing nothing, buying parcel shelf speakers, looking at rims, starting other projects. I started to cad (poorly) up my own diff with countershaft unit when I found an outfit in the UK who do R1 conversions for Minis and they have their engines facing the same way, a quick email confirmed they would sell one of their diffs separately if I wanted one. This Or this So now I had a solution I started to fit the engine.

So woke up this morning and it indeed needed an overnight burp. It took around half a litre to top up and good to go. What a difference it makes. It can now easily sit on 60mph without stinking of burning oil and smoking on cool down. Fixing the oil leak helped too. I'm genuinely shocked at what a difference it makes. Random pic of it with it's bigger brother outside the new shed I need to build for it.

Last night was wild! I've had this on my mind all week but made sure everything was going to be 100% and didnt forget anything etc. So I leave super early so I could get through scruitineering early, and get some runs early. I stop in at morrinsville on the way to get some food. Start the car back up - and my electric waterpump isnt working! Fucks sake! So I checked over everything and nothing obvious causing the issue. Was pretty disheartened and so I messaged @MopedNZ and @GuyWithAviators to say that I probably wont be able to make it. As they were coming from Tauranga to see it. They insisted that at the least they'd meet me where I was. The previous times the pump has failed, it's been that it just wont hot restart. Because the big starter capacitor cracks or something. So sure enough, once it cooled down enough it started again. This gave me the confidence to take a gamble on that it'll be the same issue, and I'll be able to get there and back home so long as I just let it cool if needed. So, yeah! Second run of the night. 13.49 @ 99.5mph and 2.09 60ft. It was awesome! I experimented with some other launch settings and tyre pressures, my "bad" runs were generally around 13.7. Hard not to be happy with that. I was eliminated on the first racing round by a real quick rotary, but I was real happy to get 4 runs in. This time there were heeeaaaappppsss of people coming over to see what's in the engine bay, or yarns about it. One young lady asked me if I'd sell it to her. Was lots of fun, and a real cool atmosphere at nightspeed again. I rounded out the evening by cruise control smug facing back home in luxury. A++ would drag race an Echo again Big thanks to Andrew and Cullam for coming along and helping / support

Chucked some primer on and then it was time for a quick test fit to check gaps and alignment. Uncle Google told me that the easiest way to line the doors up is to start off by getting the bottom and back gaps uniform with the fixed rear quarter and rocker panel and then to tweak the front fender to suit. So off came both front fenders which left the poor old Muzzy looking decidedly bare. Looks like someone has been here before as both splash panels have been replaced with Scott Drake replicas still sporting their labels. Date stamps say 2013 so must have been fitted two owners back. The chassis legs and inner panels look nice and solid with signs of the original Nightmist Blue factory paint.

So heres my idea. Thinking the irony of a electric petorl can is too funny Outta random bits and bobs laying around. So far ive done. •chopped floor outta jerry can •chopped up a swing arm to work on the can •chopped up a small bmx welderd on a front •Also have a cool little seat I have a electric motor here that ill mount up and see how well it goes other wise ill go to a petrol motor but thought for shigs and gigs ill try the electric 1st

Sooooooo, I purchased a running and legal burgman from a chap in Te Puke, as that seemed easier than fixing the first one. The Te Puke one runs well, and rides ok, but is a bit rough around the edges. It's been dropped a few times, so the front plastics were pretty haggard, and had been repaired with cable ties/fiberglass/bog/screws and steel brackets etc. The plan was to put all the good plastics from bike no1 onto bike no2, and have one running tidy-ish bike, and sell off what I don't need/use to recoup some cash. But bike no1 is a much lower k bike, so I've decided to do an engine swap rather than a body swap. Some of the features of bike no2, Barry spec back rest, The ruff-as-guts plastic repairs, The sanded windscreen, apparently he was trying to polish it? And for whatever reason it has a later model rear wheel, and muffler from the skywave (I also got a 2004 EFI skywave with bike no2, more on that later) I rode this thing back from Te Puke, and to work once, and it goes pretty well. The 0-80ish acceleration is crazy good, and it tops out at 130, but gets there pretty quickly. The only problems I have is my height, I need to get my bum back a bit, and the windshield is exactly the right hight to direct all the air into my helmet, so it sounds like you're going 300kmh at 100kmh. Duck down behind the shield, and it's crazy quite, so I'll get an extension for it. Having not had a big scoots before, I thought the rear wheel set up is slightly interesting, and different between the burgman and the later model skywave. Burgman has splined disc and wheel, skywave spec is splined hub with bolt on disc and wheel. Anyways, I ripped the motors out of both, cleaned up the good bike and motor, and will soon slap them back together. I will whip the rocket cover off the new motor and just make sure it's not about to have a cam-tastrophe like the dead engine. Also, note wrecker writing on engine, this is not the first time this bad boy has played around. Regards, V-AN250s are my life now-G. Edit: I just clicked, the rear wheel will have come on the wrecker engine, hence it being different/from a later bike.

@Roman More lightness inspiration, surprised no dimple dies used however

These come up on trademe for reasonable price couldn't resist It's eibach street series so not fully adjustable just height adjustable,still ment to be semi compliant on road too. Should help the semi slicks dig in

Still getting lots of wheel spin off the line, so a lower launch rpm might be beneficial. However it's amazing compared to street tyres how these just hook up and go anyway!

So I'm basically set on using a 1.8L. The 4g93 is known to be able to make good power, but it also has weak rods. So my thinking is to find a 4g93 block for bugger all, then put some put H-beam rods in it. Apparently Ca18Det rods are an upgrade and you can also using 4agze pistons since they are both 81mm bore, but you have to heavily shave the skirts. Then for the head, I want to find a 4g92 1.6 dohc Mivec head so it flows like a mofo. That way it kind of justifies not just using a 4g63 and sticking with the 1.8 block. Apparently some Mitsi ECU's are programable, I wonder what the limitations are versus using a link or even Speeduino? Should be fun and I've never owned an AWD turbo performance thing. The question is, do I make it look like an Evo 5 when it isn't one? Technically it could easily be faster than one with more power or what ever. Or do I keep it looking like a boring Lancer? Problem there is if I change my mind later, I'd need a cert to cut the rear arches etc.

I then decided bugger it I'll go get this gearbox anyway and had a nice Sunday 4hr round trip with my 7 year old boy. Ice cream, BP pie and all. Took the runaround Celica and hoped it would be happy with a gearbox in the back. Arrived and bought two identical gearboxs and two matching transfer cases, some driveshafts and a flywheel for a 4g15. Back home and wife helps me lift them onto a couple of wheel dolly's

Always wanted an Evo 5. Prices are nuts now though. Every time I walk my dog I'd walk past this rough '98 Lancer and I noticed the AWD sticker on the back a few years ago. Had a chat to the owner recently and said if he ever wants to sell it let me know. That day came about a week ago when he left me a note saying it has a massive oil leak and do I still want it? *voice over* He did still want it. My main interest was what sort of Mitsubishi 'parts bin' is going on here? How similar is it to the Evo, which is obviously just based on the small 4 door family car that is the Lancer. But SURELY they wouldn't have made a different floor pan for this one model right? I did some part catalogue searches to compare this, which is a CM2A and an Evo 5 CP9A it does look like the rear diff is the same as an RS Evo and the drive shafts are the same too. I think the outer will be different though. The rear subframe itself does look different, there are apparently 2 extra mounting points for the Evo subframe. But it will still bolt in from what I've found...still to be proven, if I want to go that way. Too much words without pictures, so here it is. Stunning. It sure doesn't look like an Evo 5. I've replace that front guard with one from Pick a Part, its just cosmetic damage which is good. I thought the headlight wasn't lining up and thought maybe the radiator support was bent but its just the guard being bent, which is all bolt on. One tab is broken too.

I'm still waiting to move into my new space (can I call it a "shop"? Lol) which happens on Easter Monday. So while I wait, I thought I'd do what I can til then. Cue trip to Zebras (and Auckland). I managed to pick up this guard Pretty much dent free! The one it will replace is full of bog and a big crappy repair. I wanted to replace the other one too, but of all GC/GF imprezas at Zebra (about 8 in total) theirs were too crappy for me to spend $50 on. Not a bad problem to have, being able to be picky with so many parts available. Fortunately upon getting home and checking over the one I have it isn't that bad. The next day the guard was repaired, only 4 small dents, and I covered any bare steel with a spray can primer just for now. I also got 3 out of 4 bumper brackets I needed. Younger me was a bit rfb /cable ties will be good but now I understand panel gaps are important. Why 3? Well, the early imprezas use different bracketry from the later, which are more common, at least during this visit. And the only early (92-94, version 1/2) had a wrecked front bumper with only one good bracket. It's a common myth that Subarus are lego cars. Here's the early front bumper bracket And late: Later bonnets also look cooler, but if you do the swap, better have the headlights to go with it too: Also a pic of a straight radiator support and front. I'll cut one of these, just need to invest in the tools first. Also got a lot of bolts, to replace the cable ties. This pic was taken for reference, so I know which goes where. I had a good chat with one of the workers, which led to me paying $15 in misc parts which covered a lot of the stuff I got. I stumbled across this... I've foamed over these for ages. I wet sanded it with the lightest grade sandpaper I had, which was 800 (ill have to get some 1000, 1500, 2000) and buffed it. Unfortunately I decided to leave zebra at 4pm and try pick a part, sadly they had knocked off early. Also spotted this beaut Diesel, if I remember correctly too This was a cool oem cupholder, too bad it was rooted. Found my car's twin I think next time I'll have to get an Airbnb, I get lost at the wreckers and just spend more time looking at cars/through them than getting what I need. And today I buffed the Corolla... With my DA sander!

According to the Mustang Barrys the door gaps from factory were never that great, but I managed to get them a lot better than they were when I bought the car, so I'm relatively happy with the result. I refitted the front fender only to discover that the front lower corner was sitting proud. Gave it a little tickle with some 80 grit and it looks heaps better. In this photo you can clearly see the mismatch in paint colour between the door and the fender. It's only this door that is different so I suspect it was re-painted sometime after the initial repaint back in the USA

Back to the oil leak. It's shockingly bad. The mechanics report said something about the transfer case/diff. But I'm pretty certain its the rear main seal. So either way the automatic transmission has to come out. That's when I found someone advertising a gearbox from a CL2A, which is the mirage of similar age but equally rare awd option. Also with the 4g15. So I thought, I should buy this. Did a bunch of research to find that Mitsubishi's gearboxes are all very similar. The only major when it comes to Evo's is after the Evo 1-3 they move the gearbox to the passenger side. This seems to also mean that, unlike the 1-3, the 4 onwards Evo 4g63 had a bigger bellhousing that only fits the 4G63. Previously models the gearbox could fit a 1.8 4G93 as well as the 2L 4G63. I had a think and check pricing on the Evo 4-9 gearbox decided to buy the gearbox and transfer case that fits only the 4G9* anyway. Worst case is I'd have to build a 1.8L turbo. The interesting thing is that it seems based on the model numbers, this gearbox should be as strong, if not stronger than the 1-3 Evo's had. Don't take these as gospel but this is what I think I understand of the gearbox history through the evolutions/gsr-utions. Evo/GSR 1-3 = w5m33 with a 225mm clutch Mirage 1.5L CL2A = w5m42 (also used in a manual 2.4 Outlander, so should be strong right?) GSR (CM5A) = ?? finding it hard to find info. But should be the same bellhousing bolt pattern as the CL2A one above. Evo 4-8 or 9 = w5m51 with a 240mm clutch So in theory, the w5m42 can fit a 225mm clutch and likely has quite close gear ratios. So could work quite well with a 4g93 turbo?

The specs. Engine: 4g15 A 1.5L which is also Twin Cam (JUST LIKE AN EVO), weird because every single other lancer (non GSR or Evo) of this era seems to have a SOHC 4g93 1.8L. Why did they make a twin cam for the 1.5? Wheels: 13" factory steelies. EDIT: 4x100 too which I didn't expect. I think they might be 175's? Basically like the Evo 5 on those thin ice gripping tyres! Auto: 4 speed I think. Evo 7's had an auto option. Same thing. Wind up windows: JUST LIKE AN Evo RS! Rear Diff: IRS, 3.3 I think....just. like. an. RS. No AYC there. Interior: grey. Didn't the Evo RS have Glxi seats? 4G15 twin cam. Probably 100hp maybe?

Still running, il book it in to have the lugs replaced Guy that does vintage straps has been taking a break for a while, but next month ish I might get him to sort a replica of Mallory's strap (he's got a good stash of new old stock buckles which are quite different to today's as well) Tried to order in some silver stuff from the usual place, but still won't send to nz from the usps covid thing, tbh it doesn't work out cheaper to do the silver work myself buying small amounts of stuff. So paying the 2hrs labour is probably fine Anyway

New mainspring in. Can see why it was only running 6 or so hours at a time, the original has not only lost its temper, but has broken into 3 pieces. Got it wound up now and will see if it's still running this time tomorrow

Good to see you've worked out the modern Dell'orto and lumpy cam setup for your modern starlet

this stuff even comes in different colours https://caswellplating.com/epoxy-gas-tank-sealer.html seems to set hard like plastic (says can also be used to pot electronics etc)

Please 3d print a new exhaust soon. The suspense is killing me.

got a few things done this week. 1st was the oil filter .. the pinto one hots the plug end of the IACV. so I did some professional googling and found the xflow has the same 70mm diameter seal but is only 80mm in diameter and the pinto was 92mm. getting to the oil filter is a weeeee bit harder now .. just need to get in from the aide behind the passenger front wheel also filled it with new oil... the new cam belt turned up with the filter and oil so I I put that on with all the timing marks spot on......that then allowed me to be able to bolt the crank and home triggerwheels on. I had noticed a few things when I was under the car... one of them being the drive shaft wasn't sitting right and the rear drifeshaft hoop needs modification to be able to get an exhaust past it...... so out they came ( luckily out and back in without having to remove the full interior to get to the bolts ). once I had the hoop out I tacked it to some steel cut a section out and remade it... the bottom section can still be removed and bolted back on... and that should allow some room for a sneaky exhaust. the issue with the drivshaft was the flange on the front section close to the center bearing was hitting the center bearing ... I made new slotted tabs and welded them back on. I then left those bolt lose while the rest of the drive shaft was in place . and I jacked the diff up and from full drop to all the way up the center bearing moves about 20mm... so with the diff all the way up I tightened the center bolts and that flange had about 5 mm clearance and on full drop about 10mm ..so that seems to of fixed that. back to the motor I bolted the trigger sensors on and gapped them I had to tighten them up and had bugger all room so I modified a old spanner with a fucked socket. and with the sensors now on I can put the fan and shroud back on ( still waiting on a smaller fan belt tho) made a bracket and mounted the coil packs started working out ht lead length and tried the heat sleeves and today I started on the eco harness. apart from mounting the Map sensor I'm pretty sure everything is all in the engine bay. this is about all I need I believe.... ( I am excited and nervous about doing this but I want to have a go and I've got some knowledgeable people I can ask when stuck). removed all the wires from the harness I don't need I untangled the loom so it's clean sorted and none crossed over.... I also found a spot in the firewall for a hole and started to run the loom out. still got to mount relays and run powers and earth's.. ect ect but I'll take my time

I made a cone compressor so I could finish disassembling the front subframe. It owes me $40 but there is enough rod left to make another. A bought one is $99. So... Winning? M14X2 doesn't seem to be a common size for threaded rod, I had to get it from a proper fastener supplier.

well then, now we're home again. total of 3750 Ks at 7.5 liters per hundy. never missed a beat. i fucking thrashed the shit out of the poor old thing too, like i revved the fucking balls off this thing and its fucking loving it. no rocker tick, no chain rattle, nothing, hasn't use a single drop of oil either. the only thing that happened is that the exhaust got smashed against the ground and its now touching part of the chassis so it makes a little rumble noise every now and again but it only does it when its cold. also im fucking glad i welded that piece of angle iron to the front of the trans sump because that fucker took some big hits. bit of exhaust muntage like i say but the big smashing was all gearbox. its hard to tell from the photo but this thing is bent up good.

I'm almost at my 10k budget But didn't allow for stuff like tints audio Think I'm going to go over by about $1500 after it's been tuned. Doing it all proper though and everything that needs replacing will be done, because think I hold on to it for a while. It's still will be alot cheaper than the mazda mps 3 I was considering at the time that wasn't as tidy either and about equal performance

I await for the next episode of "I thought I had stopped my British car from leaking oil for good but I was dreaming"....