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Thought I had better set up the crane, it's come up good; Should do the trick.

Last update for 2019 I got annoyed at my brain going around in circles about intercooling, between water to air, air to air, or doing water meth injection. Spent waaay too much time reading stuff on the internet I'd actually bought most of the stuff to do W2A but it adds a lot of weight and more stuff to do A2A means I lose the bonnet catch so I'll have to put up with 1x dick punch from @RUNAMUCK due to bonnet pins Water/meth is the easiest route but so much conflicting information on whether it works well or not plus the unit I was looking at was $800 So to stop goin

Finally got a chance to take this on a real drive. 50km round trip this morning, out to governors bay hotel for a coffee and some wedges and back through lyttleton and through the tunnel back towards home. The drive was awesome and the car performed beautifully. Only issue was the steering doesn't want to return to centre very well, probably just an alighnment needed but will check over the uni joints and the rack. Wasn't pushing it hard at all because it's very early days, but it seemed far far too easy to keep up with normal cars through the hills, I suspect it just eats the road

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Have been working on this a bit in the holidays, getting the inlet manifold work done. I've thought a couple of times that I should have just bitten the bullet and made an inlet manifold from scratch, with the amount of work it is to get this one sorted properly for a RWD application... But I'm this far in, so I'll finish it off. Most obvious jobs are to swap the throttlebody onto the other end of the plenum, and reroute the coolant setup. I've seen a few RWD setups with this manifold where the thermostat housing is left where it is and a hose is run to the front of the engine, but a

I started to strip the turbo and nothing really looked wrong, so I thought fuck it and bolted it back together. So far it seems pretty sweet. The actuator pops at 15psi, although I don't actually know what it will boost to, one of the jobs is to fit a gauge to monitor it. It has a pretty loud whistle so I can hear it spooling up from 1500rpm or so, @Mof pointed out that it may have a boost leak so I have replaced the gasket into the manifold with a rubbery one as this is pretty much the only place it could leak, so next time I drive it I will see how that goes. I don't think I have h

We did some stuff with this today, one of the boys videoed it. This was the third lump we pulled out like this, works well, saved a lot of effort.

Been having hot start issues with the engine, worst of all being random which hampered troubleshooting. I also didn't bother refitting the fan when the engine was out as i've often wondered how much effect it gives without a cowl and so far back, unfortunately it draws sufficient air to keep the engine cool at idle so leaving the car running for short stops was not an option. (Must re-fit...) Keeping to my usual mantra of when it seems like the carburettors are playing up its the ignition I started swapping out bits that I could. Given the brand of the coil I was left unsur

Head on with new gasket and torqued down. All degreased and cleaned. Primed last night and top coated this evening. Roll on the new year !

See my sight glasses.... I also got an Aloris style wedge type tool post from EBay USA. It came with 7 holders. I thought it was a lot of money.... then shipping and unspecified "duty and taxes" got added, which doubled the price. So I'd been trying to think of an excuse to buy a 3HP motor to upgrade the 2.2HP motor. The 2.2HP had a noisy centrifugal switch.... The 3HP motor arrived this afternoon. After removing the 2.2 and finding it really hot, I realised the centrifugal switch was stuck on.... so the starting capacitor was always connected. The 3HP is wired

I lightly sanded some of the machined surfaces with 400 grit to get the rest of the black off. It opens and closes smooth as now. It had to force it in some spots when I took it apart.

So I went and found the absolute most polar opposite vehicle to something oldschool If mods think this is a boring daily feel free to delete. My now 1 month old Tesla Model 3 Standard Range +. I have been a Tesla fan for many many years and it has been a long term goal to own one. So this is the new daily. All I can say is what an absolutely phenomenal vehicle. All you need to do is drive one of these and you will be sold. I am still into oldschool so dont get me wrong but man, these cars are really next level. Thought I would throw a post up as probably a bit out of the ordin

Regulators, bit of a headache. I have a 23amp stator and a 32 amp rotor. I brought a 32 amp regulator...but the pins are wrong size. So I brought another one in 23amp...which fits. My understanding (elec-trickery isn't strong point), is that the rotor is just a magnet and isn't going to affect the stator adversely and cause it to make more power. Plus if the demand is low, the system wont be making anywhere near 23amps anyways? So assuming thus to be true, I'm pushing onwards... 32amp, wrong pin size. Making bracket for 23amp regulator. I pu

That’s choice.

All certed reg wof as of the end of July. Needs a WOf end of Jan haha. Man they come around fast. reunion in a month and a bit so game on

So... something like 12 years ago I bought my vice 2nd hand. I was missing one of the jaws. Buying or making a replacement jaw should be straight forward.... right? I never found anything off the shelf that was the right size. Probably because the vice is polish. Since then I made do with only the one jaw... After a few years, the one jaw broke... But I continued to make do. Finally, yesterday I decided that the tools and materials I have, had reached critical mass and making replacement jaws was achievable. The old broken jaw... The 50X50 aluminium ba

Cheers man, I'm gagging to get it legal and start hooning around. I have also done the bulk of the design work on the camper cabin for it, that is next in line for some attention, although I am now as broke as anything so scraping the funds together for that will take time...

Building the 1961 Datsun 310 Bluebird Floorpan - Welding up the pie cuts along the floorpan edges. Making reproduction nutplates. More fit checks. Getting closer to completion. Some little things. I used Teks and temp fastened the underside support to conform the floor shape more accurately. And backing up a little bit from the thread post where I fully trimmed the flanges, I needed to first weld up some gaps. There's seven bends in contour along the fore and aft direction. That results in 14 pie cuts along the edges to be cleaned up and welded. Not so much

Building the 1961 Datsun 310 Bluebird Floorpan - Disassembly of the parking brake hand lever. Repair and fit checking the brake assembly installation against the floorpan. Adding the divot for the lever end. There was a problem getting this parking brake lever assembly off of the car in the first place. I need it now to temporarily attach it to the floorpan and locate the attach points and underfloor clearance cutout. The lever or arm was seized on the tapered shaft. I cut the seat bracket to remove the whole assembly and deal with the problem on the bench. Unsuccessfully, it

Nah it wasn't certed. It had heavy duty leaf springs fitted I find it hard to figure out why the company that did the work would have that attitude, surely they would have insurance, and the bad publicity would cost more than fixing the vehicle.

With the brake rotors slowly making their way to me from across the planet, I wanted to get the TVR in for a Warrant Of Fitness inspection to see if there was anything else I needed to order. Its been a little nerve-wracking, knowing that this would be the longest trip the car has taken in about 3-4 years, and it's still only a 40km round trip. Nothing for the other two cars, but for the TVR, it seemed like half the country away. To prepare for it I took the TVR for a backroad shakedown the other day; just a short 15km trip, but further than down the road and back I've done previousl

Is there still shops that re-wind them?

The replacement china sight glasses finally arrived. When I drained the oil out of the carriage, it didn't drain very well. I found that there was a thick layer of watery oily filth sludge in the bottom. So I unbolted the base plate to clean it out. Fortunately it cleaned up quite well. I also discovered that there was a broken spring. It had rusted at one end because it was under the sludge. I replaced the spring and its retaining screw. Tonight I tried to flush out the feed screw gearbox. I discovered it was pretty filthy too. So I moved all the levers to the left and removed

A couple months ago this got featured in the NZV8 magazine. @Snoozin did a wonderful job! Got sick of the doors not shutting correctly. Had my parent's bring back some Altman latches from the US on one of their trips over. Relatively simple to install, but modified a few things so they work a bit nicer and installed some electric solenoids. Need to sort some more door seals as these ones leave some large gaps in places. The final thing that needed doing to "finish" it off finally got done! Mark Dunn in Levin did an awesome job on the u

Yes i found enough pieces of bronze ones to make about 80% of one, then faked the rest with bits from the rustiest one i could find. Not sure why i spent about...50 hours on it? It's a ...questionable? design, like, Victorian era "I just designed an engine that runs on gas & want to run it on liquid fuel & this is the best I have" design. Not horrible, just weird. They have a 'toilet lid' looking flapper in them and a bowl of gas, and tubes, and the flapper not only regulates how much air (yes air) gets sucked into the main jet but opens at speed as a kind of mixing valve? And do

I picked through a bucket of parts & found them. Should be enough parts for 1 good one. I think the parts carb' was one you gave me too. Do you need a giant 3 litre lawnmower engine carb?

Forget that one, the new tune is better. That one sounded like a series of tiny gearshifts, kind of like an early fast&furious movie. Eww why is there a digital thing on my dash? Oh, if i look closer it's an exhaust temp' sensor. But the gauge seems to have suffered damage from a 25 volt alternating current charging system. But it worked for a month so i guess i got enough data...

They only need 10 seconds of water flow every 1 minute. And that plug does look a bit lean but i run mine at 9.5:1 so i might be bias.

If i increment the math side of things by 100 it stays at full advance all the time. By 1,000 - 10,000, same thing. It even advances while sitting there not turning over, but will retard while running. Please tell me how bad my math is.

Don't mind this, it's just a basic, primitive tune i spent the afternoon adjusting // constants won't change. Used here to set a pin number: const int coil1 = 3; const int coil2 = 5; const int coil3 = 7; const int coil4 = 9; const int sensorPin1 = A4; const int sensorPin2 = A1; const int sensorPin3 = A2; const int sensorPin4 = A3; int sensorValue = 0; int sensorThreshold = 200; int sensorMax = 0; // Variables will change: volatile int coilState = LOW; volatile int coilPin = LOW; volatile int sparkTriggerDelayActive = false; //added this to try & see if i can delay spark at low

After deciding that i can't really devise a means of making a sparkplug ionization measuring device at home... Has anyone here used inductance on the coil lead to calculate the delay of firing a coil to the point of the spark occurring? Bonus points if it's an earth lead on a C.o.P. setup.

Not sure how to test the frequency of the main loop without an oscilloscope so i had it serial print for 30 seconds. Which told me the baud rate was the limiting factor. E.G. Versus Edit: what happened to the text with the other rate ect? Anyhow. adding "coilState = LOW" in the 'else' statement has transformed the open road running. Work much like i intended (Duhh what an oversight that was!) Would drive fine. But it's now hard to start & misses at 120-500 RPM? Can't figure that one out.

3rd pull start. All the 2-stroke goodness. Pics to come..

I'll probably copy this sort of brace for the upper mount

With the engine and trans in I started to look at what I was going to do for an exhaust I can choose 2 of the following 3 items Rh torsion bar Oil filter An exhaust that actually flows So I think the best option is to put coil springs in it and get rid of the torsion bars. I knocked up a dummy coilover using parts I had kicking around. I'll go see autolign this week and see if they can make a bilstein shock with a circlip adjustable lower platform and I can use the threaded one at the top. If this plan works I'll need to modify the lower arm inner pi

Good observation, but if that happened it'd cut power to the coil which would result in a spark. So not a bad result as it'd be "on time" rather than lagging.

That’s the millennial quote of the day there. No more dyno tuning, just windows updates

Stopped at SuperChargers in Hamilton, Taupo and Palmy for about 20mins at each. We went via Hawkes Bay for a night so had a charge up in Hastings on one of the Charge Net chargers for about 30 mins. One quick 20 min charge in Blenheim while we had a toilet break and another in Kaikoura while we had fish and chips and that was it. Basically every time we stopped we got something to eat or drink, had a stretch and a toilet break and maybe waited for 5 mins in the car and that was it. Very stress free and not at all an issue. Some of the charging we probably didn't even need to do it

https://cleantechnica.com/2019/07/16/lowering-the-tesla-model-3-increases-efficiency-an-astounding-7/ "Lowering The Tesla Model 3 Increases Efficiency An Astounding 7%"

Might dab a bit of 'direct to rust' satin black on the bits that need it... Did some things today. Stripped the Villiers carb, not too bad inside, a few previous bodges made it tricky to get apart, but they're a simple beast... And cleaned, lubed, reassembled and ready to go... And assembled the ignition too. Didn't feed the brown wire corrrectly but didn't notice till I checked old pics. Should run under the insulation plate in the points box, but soldered now so she'll be right. There's a new Villiers condenser under there too... And araldited a new felt pad to the sprung

Would you like some more bits...

Thanks! Basically it's just: Degrease. Because the electrolysis doesn't work so well if it's oily. Put in electrolysis bath for a day or two or several days. Each day, or whenever, give the sacrificial electrodes a scrub with the wire brush to remove the crusty shit so they work good again. Rinse with hot water.(I have a hot tap outside) Clean off black stuff with hot soapy water, scourer pad and wire brush. Most of it will come off with minimal effort. Rinse with hot water. Parts will start to flash rust as they dry. Blow dry with compressed air

Electrolysis for the win. Ans a scourer pad... and soapy water. Came up well. I oiled the 4 jaw so it doesn't rust again.

Bosozukodozer the barry aggravator

Except for still having a leaky sump, it seems. Someone, at some time in the past, over-tightened the sump bolts and deformed the gasket. (For "someone", read "me") (For "at some time in the past", read "last Saturday") It was fine for a bit & then it wasn't. Still, the chassis definitely isn't going to rust now. Surely I'll get it right in the end with all this practice.

Ii haven't done anything to this. Today I did some things with it today. Things like pushing piles of AP65 about and making a nice parking space behind the garage. Mint!

Been a few months since I really updated progress, so Got really pissed off with chasing issues in the carbs, that I traced to a vacuum leak, fixed that for a quick win, got the LM2917 running and lined up all data points on the one plot, this ended up to be very useful and with that and a set of micro drills, I soldered and drilled my way to a decent mixture, eventually settling on 0.5 idles, 1.20 mains and 2.0 air correctors, pretty much the same as where I started! there are a few more gremlins in there, I have reason to believe the pump jets are a tad rich, but economy is acceptable a