anglia4 Posted May 6 Report Share Posted May 6 If you did want to talk to a truck person, some names I would suggest: Dave Plum is a heavy vehicle certifier, and he will talk your ear off if you can get hold of him. Phil @ Waimea Engineering does lots of heavy vehicle fab stuff. Either of those guys would have some ideas of practical ideas for how to modify the chassis. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted May 6 Report Share Posted May 6 34 minutes ago, anglia4 said: If you did want to talk to a truck person, some names I would suggest: Dave Plum is a heavy vehicle certifier, and he will talk your ear off if you can get hold of him. Phil @ Waimea Engineering does lots of heavy vehicle fab stuff. Either of those guys would have some ideas of practical ideas for how to modify the chassis. Our boy lives in Inglewood, so way closer to your neck of the woods.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anglia4 Posted May 6 Report Share Posted May 6 Ha! Richard Smith at Meta on Connett road then. He will have some ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otodat Posted May 6 Report Share Posted May 6 Do later model chassis rails narrow at the front still? Can't imagine it would be overly hard to swap the chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otodat Posted May 6 Report Share Posted May 6 1999-2011 U300 looks like it may widen at the front, can’t find a picture of one irl to check but, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted May 6 Report Share Posted May 6 I love the idea of a Toyota Hemi in this old camper, but if we are talking chassis swaps, you’d be better off getting a modernish diesel Hilux or similar and putting your body on top. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaxPower Posted May 6 Report Share Posted May 6 I have a front cut off a 1995 Toyota dyna for cheap if you go down that Rd, had a 15b diesel in it, sounds like quite a lot of work this v8 engine would you be better off with a common Toyota diesel like a 1kz or 13b diesel? I’m sure the v8 would sound the goods though 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CUL8R Posted May 6 Report Share Posted May 6 Why not have "holes" in the chassis rail for exhausts to go through, with suitably thick doubler plates with a return edge for strength? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HumberSS Posted May 8 Author Report Share Posted May 8 On 05/05/2022 at 23:30, shrike said: Is the main issue that the carb fowls the cab in its current location? My first thought is low profile efi conversion, but I know you wanted to stay carbed. Anyway to remote mount the carb? Sounds like a good reason to go remote mounted turbo with a suck through carb How much dies the cab fowl on the carb/ top of the engine? Could you raise that part of the seat/engine cover up? Can you remove any material on the heads/cam covers to lower the engine more? Sorry folks, been a few days away. To answer this question, main issue is both fowling of cab and width between rails. Fowling of cab by a good 100-150mm. Im wanting to run a bench seat (had buckets, dont like the look). Main real issue though is the width for headers. not a lot we can remove off engine, but will shave a few bosses etc definitely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HumberSS Posted May 8 Author Report Share Posted May 8 Re EFI, just not that keen tbh. I was born in 1981, TV was barely a thing. @anglia4 thanks I know Richard well. @Otodat def not keen on a chassis swap. This is already more than enough of a job. @MaxPower yeah its a lot of work, agreed 15B is the easier route. Im just attached to the V8 in this era Dyna as a combo. Im fairly irrational.. @CUL8R I still need primary tubes into some sort of collector, unless I run Zoomies through the rails, which sounds epic, but probably will weaken chassis a little too (although not was much as proposed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HumberSS Posted May 8 Author Report Share Posted May 8 @ThePog you know you're a total cunt. But probably right. I have decided best 'first move' is to get rid of encumberances in the body, which need to happen anyway for trans clearance so there was no avoiding relieving the camper body anyway. May as well chop a hole, then see how much real clearance I have and if it truly is viable to slot it in there. Kyle reckons as soon as we clear the top, it wont take as much as I think to move it back/down and may in fact not have to move rearwards as far as it looks like it needs to. The only way to answer this question is with the chorus of the angle grinder. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted May 8 Report Share Posted May 8 If only everyone just took my advice like that the world would be a better place. For me. Cos I'd tell them to all fuck off and leave me alone. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted May 8 Report Share Posted May 8 Not trying to be a dick and I do not intend to offend But it seems like a lot of work to put a round peg in a square hole , and the round peg isn't very powerful, is hard to get parts for and needs some dickery to fit a trans to, when you could do less work and put a better engine in it? Like you say, a SB chev would be smaller, a 302 would be even narrower, no efi, and you can get a 4 speed auto that bolts on Just my 2c feel free to tell me to mind my own business 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted May 8 Report Share Posted May 8 Toyota valve covers on the chebby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmulally Posted May 8 Report Share Posted May 8 I just did a chev swap on my C20. A 283 for a 350. If you want any detailed measurements in mm just sing out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HumberSS Posted May 10 Author Report Share Posted May 10 On 09/05/2022 at 10:38, cletus said: Not trying to be a dick and I do not intend to offend But it seems like a lot of work to put a round peg in a square hole , and the round peg isn't very powerful, is hard to get parts for and needs some dickery to fit a trans to, when you could do less work and put a better engine in it? Like you say, a SB chev would be smaller, a 302 would be even narrower, no efi, and you can get a 4 speed auto that bolts on Just my 2c feel free to tell me to mind my own business Bro fully appreciate the input, no offence taken.. Will consider further.. May still pursue irrational option. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muncie Posted May 10 Report Share Posted May 10 Height is the kicker for exhaust can you raise the engine enough so your have the exhaust ports above chassis without driveshaft angles getting horrible? If so adapt a sidedraft carby like a dellorto to keep it under the seat, no huge mods then to chassis. Please run 4" side pipes like a 70's panel (porno) van. You can always swap out the Toyota with a Real mopar Hemi later. Or fit a smaller engine like the more compact big block chev. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4AG_Addict Posted May 18 Report Share Posted May 18 Saw this one on Trademe earlier with a Chebby in it https://www.trademe.co.nz/3596638893 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HumberSS Posted May 19 Author Report Share Posted May 19 Awesome, that looks like a sound rig for someone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otodat Posted August 4 Report Share Posted August 4 Post up if you get that delta, a mate of mine has one, I'll ask him if he's after anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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