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4V Century V8 powered Dyna Camper Discussion


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Its been the subject of much debate, but I think it will come straight off to the front without lifting the camper body. We nearly have everything clear. Need to drop front axle, have removed most everything else underneath except engine. It will be tight, but looks like it will work.

The engine, as you can imagine is also a squeeze. Overall L/W/H looks ok, but we might have to shift the radiator xmember forward a little, and/or carve a little out of the camper body for trans relief. Width between rails is good, and engine will sit lower than original, but still about a foot off the ground.. 

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Must be a very early one to have a  carburetor.

The Aisin carbs are dogshit inefficient and they tend to be pretty hungry on fuel.

Best thing you cam do is find a small Holley and make a adapter plate. 

Seems like a bargain what you paid for it especially If it's been done up already

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Have you considered a UZ instead? Don't want to knock the V engine too much but even the 4L 5V is short of power, not very economical, and as you'll probably find out, hard to get a decent 4/5 speed trans for.  

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1 hour ago, JustHarry said:

Must be a very early one to have a  carburetor.

The Aisin carbs are dogshit inefficient and they tend to be pretty hungry on fuel.

Best thing you cam do is find a small Holley and make a adapter plate. 

Seems like a bargain what you paid for it especially If it's been done up already

Thanks man, Ill get it running and if not happy with it Ill look at carb options from there. Yeah price was pretty ideal!

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1 hour ago, fuel said:

Have you considered a UZ instead? Don't want to knock the V engine too much but even the 4L 5V is short of power, not very economical, and as you'll probably find out, hard to get a decent 4/5 speed trans for.  

I initially did before the 4V came along. I agree they are no powerhouse, but the 4L 5V is actually worse than the 3.4L 4V as its choked up with emissions gear. I want the simplicity of no electronics and with the tickle up its had I expect it should make 150kw at least and enough torque - will be over double whats in there. Economy isnt the biggest deal its not a daily, and tbh the original 4 cylinder averaged 23L/100km on trips as you had to beat the dick out of it everywhere, mostly with the secondarys open , so I expect the V8 might be slightly better than that. Its still a cheaper holiday than flying and motels ;) 

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15 hours ago, dmulally said:

I spent a year looking for one of those engines and one walked into your lap! Very jealous! 

yeah...sorry about that. It was truly too good to pass up. It also forced me to make a decision on the repower of the camper - fate has its ways.

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Is the main issue that the carb fowls the cab in its current location?

My first thought is low profile efi conversion,  but I know you wanted to stay carbed. 

Anyway to remote mount the carb? Sounds like a good reason to go remote mounted turbo with a suck through carb ;)

How much dies the cab fowl on the carb/ top of the engine?

Could you raise that part of the seat/engine cover up?

Can you remove any material on the heads/cam covers to lower the engine more?

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Option A : EFI that bitch so the seat clears and much nicer running, then chop what ever needs chopping/strengthen what ever needs strengtherizing (yes thats a word... well it is now) to make it stay where it is for visual smug face when the seat is lifted (cert man is being lazy with no cutting preference).

 

Option B : See above.

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I say move it back, if the only issue is a short driveshaft then that works sweet. The driveshaft in the Dynafari is only 600 -700mm long and provides a shitload more articulation than you will ever need.

You will be able to get the engine as low as you want which will minimise how far it encroaches.

Having a removable cover in the cabin for servicing is fine. That's what I have and it works. I have little hatches for oil fill and dipstick.

It will become a mid engined racecar.

Also the chassis cut is right by the spring hanger which isn't great.

I mean the cut you want is in line where the chassis widens to, its telling you what needs to happen.

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