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Adoom's 1972 Triumph 2000


Adoom
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Solution for your AN fittings space issue on oil lines, 

Tap for tapered NPT or BSP and get some angled fittings. Then you you can aim them away from each other enough to get the hoses tightened up. 

Or get some crimped to suit with bsp one end and AN female at other end to hook up to filter housing.

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12 hours ago, Muncie said:

Solution for your AN fittings space issue on oil lines, 

Tap for tapered NPT or BSP and get some angled fittings. Then you you can aim them away from each other enough to get the hoses tightened up. 

Or get some crimped to suit with bsp one end and AN female at other end to hook up to filter housing.

 

Good idea. I managed to sort it another way.

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2 hours ago, Nominal said:

Nice work on getting it running. You must be pleased.

injectors could be sticky, worry about it later.

Thanks, it feels like I passed a milestone.

I should probably move on to wrapping the loom with the expanding mesh sleeve stuff I bought yonks ago. 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

In my experience your leaks would disappear if you threw away those cool looking clamps and just used budget worm clamps. 

The t-bolt clamps can work OK-ish when you gave a barb or bead to shoulder to snug up against but seem to be near useless when clamping over a bit of parallel tube. 

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45 minutes ago, mjrstar said:

In my experience your leaks would disappear if you threw away those cool looking clamps and just used budget worm clamps. 

The t-bolt clamps can work OK-ish when you gave a barb or bead to shoulder to snug up against but seem to be near useless when clamping over a bit of parallel tube. 

Damn, I got the cool looking clamps because there were going to be so many of them and right in your face.

I did put a bead on the aluminium tube, using the modified vice grip method. Maybe it will help if I move the clamp right on top of the bead, rather than beside it?

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Lubricating the hose under the clamp with silicone spray so they don't pinch when tightening appears to have fixed the leaks.

Now I'm trying to identify the cause of an oil leak at the adapter plate for the remote mount oil filter. I'm hoping it's just the figure 8 o-ring that needs replacing, not a pin hole in the weld.

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Re chopping the car into smaller chunks,

If you dont have a decent recipro saw, an axe is remarkably effective. 

I've chopped up a few cars that way. 

Take the roof off, then go through just in front of the rear wheels at the base of the C pillar, and at the base of the A pillar. I'll usually completely remove the B pillars too.

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28 minutes ago, RUNAMUCK said:

Re chopping the car into smaller chunks,

If you dont have a decent recipro saw, an axe is remarkably effective. 

I've chopped up a few cars that way. 

Take the roof off, then go through just in front of the rear wheels at the base of the C pillar, and at the base of the A pillar. I'll usually completely remove the B pillars too.

Geeze you might be okay on the older stuff but I'd love to see anyone take on a modern car with an axe. I let the magic smoke out of my recip cutting our Toyota Blade in half. The chassis rail/floor junction was THICC.

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3 hours ago, Corbie said:

Probably talking about Datsuns, mostly rust anyway.

The first time  I saw an axe used, it was  on a VG Valiant regal shell. I told the guy,  you're  off your head cunt. You cant cut up a car with an axe. Well he did. Thats where I learned the method. One night I cut up a 180B shell at @datto_610 flat after drinking for about 6 hours straight. (And riding  my nifty 50 accross town tanked up with an axe between my feet) I unleashed my drunken fury on that car. (twas the Mid 2000's, and I was probably at my physical peak then) 
The next day I could barely lift  my arms over my head. 
/It was a fucking good night! 

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