Adoom's 1972 Triumph 2000

[VitesseEFI]

Ref the different floorpans….. IIRC the really early MK1s had a transverse exhaust box tucked into that space (some Dolomite variants did too). That arrangement was dropped quite early on for the more familiar crazy afterthought hodge-podge, but seems they never changed the floor pan pressing…. 

[GARDRB]

Just a thought this afternoon as we were discussing narrowed IRS setups. Does moving the suspension pickup points inward do anything to the suspension geometry?? I can't see why it would, but I'm also second-guessing myself. Part of me says that the inner suspension pickups being closer together would change the roll-center.

[Adoom]

1 hour ago, GARDRB said:

Just a thought this afternoon as we were discussing narrowed IRS setups. Does moving the suspension pickup points inward do anything to the suspension geometry?? I can't see why it would, but I'm also second-guessing myself. Part of me says that the inner suspension pickups being closer together would change the roll-center.

I hadn't actually thought of that. Referring to one of Allan Staniforth's books, moving the inner pickup points closer together would lower the roll center slightly. That's good, I think.
I don't think it would do much else, or at least anything I'd notice.


 

[BiTurbo228]

On 07/08/2024 at 08:15, Adoom said:

I hadn't actually thought of that. Referring to one of Allan Staniforth's books, moving the inner pickup points closer together would lower the roll center slightly. That's good, I think.
I don't think it would do much else, or at least anything I'd notice.

Yep spot on, though the effect won't be huge (or, as you say, even noticeable).

Lower roll centres is generally better. More of the roll force from cornering getting fed into the springs vertically, rather than horizontally into the suspension arms and causing jacking (which reduces grip). Easy to work out what proportion goes where if you've already found your roll centre and can do some triangle maths. The pic on the right is what you want to reproduce (would be dead easy in CAD).

 

Oh, you don't want to get too close to the ground as the roll centre can pop below ground and cause 'anti-jacking' where corner forces push your car lower rather than jack it upwards in roll. I don't necessarily think this is a terrible thing per se, but you don't want it flipping between the two as it'd make handling unpredictable right at the pointy end of cornering when you want it to be most predictable.

[BiTurbo228]

Yeah I've stopped using POR15. Doesn't stick to fresh metal, needs to be absolutely utterly spotlessly clean, whole can goes off before you end up using it all. It's great stuff if you can get it to work, but it's finicky.

I use Bilt Hamber epoxy now and it's much nicer to work with.

[yoeddynz]

3 hours ago, BiTurbo228 said:

Yeah I've stopped using POR15. Doesn't stick to fresh metal, needs to be absolutely utterly spotlessly clean, whole can goes off before you end up using it all. It's great stuff if you can get it to work, but it's finicky.

I use Bilt Hamber epoxy now and it's much nicer to work with.

There's some aussie made alternatives to por 15 that I have found to be better and a bit cheaper.

Bilt hamber stuff is great. Wins a lot of comparison tests etc. Unfortunately no one is importing it into NZ.  When I moved back home from the UK we brought over a whole box of cans of bilt hamber cavity wax. (dyna S50?) Best stuff I have used yet.

[Adoom]

12 hours ago, yoeddynz said:

There's some aussie made alternatives to por 15 that I have found to be better and a bit cheaper.

Bilt hamber stuff is great. Wins a lot of comparison tests etc. Unfortunately no one is importing it into NZ.  When I moved back home from the UK we brought over a whole box of cans of bilt hamber cavity wax. (dyna S50?) Best stuff I have used yet.

I'd just use Epotec 408. But it's a bit of a pain to mix up a tiny batch for small things like this.

Any brand names of the aussie stuff?
I used some eastwood platinum and thought it was pretty good. But AFAIK it's no longer available in NZ.

[Tiger Tamer]

If you are using POR15 on new or clean smooth steel, you need to use their metal ready first to create the bond. I haven't used any other product yet so have no comparison.

[yoeddynz]

9 hours ago, Adoom said:

I'd just use Epotec 408. But it's a bit of a pain to mix up a tiny batch for small things like this.

Any brand names of the aussie stuff?
I used some eastwood platinum and thought it was pretty good. But AFAIK it's no longer available in NZ.

This is the stuff we've been using the last few years. Is actually nicer in use than Por15 but it still wont stick to shiny new steel unless, as pussycat whisperer above stated, you use some sort of acid etch first.

https://kbs-coatings.co.nz/products/rustseal?variant=30214165987381

(really cheap through supercheap on trade account btw)

I just use it on rust and for new steel I use Resene industrial 440 epoxy primer.

[BiTurbo228]

Not sure what your engineering stuff would say about it, but I've made a twin master setup to work with mine. Cut out the middleman of a pendulum box and just made a plate that bolts to the bulkhead:

A T2000 might be on the upper limit of what I'd want to drive on the street with manual brakes, but hopefully it'll be fine!

[Slowhoon]

NZ saloons got both single circuit and dual circuit brakes as standard during their production life. I have wondered if the dual circuit master cylinder option originated from Australia.

So does the car have single or dual? Spares for the latter have been hard to get in the last couple of years.

[Adoom]

3 hours ago, BiTurbo228 said:

Not sure what your engineering stuff would say about it, but I've made a twin master setup to work with mine. Cut out the middleman of a pendulum box and just made a plate that bolts to the bulkhead:

A T2000 might be on the upper limit of what I'd want to drive on the street with manual brakes, but hopefully it'll be fine!

Yes, I could do something like that. I'd prefer to stay with the regular master cylinder and put in an adjustable pressure reducing valve to fix any balance issues. Just because it's simpler.

[Adoom]

2 hours ago, Slowhoon said:

NZ saloons got both single circuit and dual circuit brakes as standard during their production life. I have wondered if the dual circuit master cylinder option originated from Australia.

So does the car have single or dual? Spares for the latter have been hard to get in the last couple of years.

It's the later tandem master cylinder(though this car did originally have a single circuit). As far as I know, the same tandem master is on the Stag(dunno if all of them had it). Internet says Stag is larger bore. Rimmers or Chris Witor in UK have the kits for the tandem, so that's a last resort.
I'll stop in at MP Autoparts on my way home and see if Greg has anything.

[Tiger Tamer]

There is the brake cylinder/ MC etc rebuild place in Christchurch that will rebuild them in a couple of days. They do a good job and reasonably priced as well. Can't remember their name at the moment.

[Nominal]

1 minute ago, Tiger Tamer said:

There is the brake cylinder/ MC etc rebuild place in Christchurch that will rebuild them in a couple of days. They do a good job and reasonably priced as well. Can't remember their name at the moment.

Canterbury Brake and Clutch?

[Tiger Tamer]

2 minutes ago, Nominal said:

Canterbury Brake and Clutch?

Yeah that's them. I had them do the Minx MC and rear brake cyl.

[BiTurbo228]

13 hours ago, Adoom said:

Yes, I could do something like that. I'd prefer to stay with the regular master cylinder and put in an adjustable pressure reducing valve to fix any balance issues. Just because it's simpler.

Probably smarter. I just took one look at the price of remanufactured master cylinders or my Mk1 and thought 'screw that for a game of soldiers'.

Been thinking of trying to do a servo-into-twin-masters things somehow as that'd open up opportunities to do something similar with my SD1, but not got that sussed yet.