Adoom's 1972 Triumph 2000

[_Matt]

You could possible look into mounting the struts somewhat like this to give a touch more clearance to your bonnet.

[cletus]

Another idea into the pot 

Instead of welding to some standard cut down struts 

Get a couple of flat plates cut out with the bolt pattern to suit, and weld those directly to the BC strut tube?

Might be something to discuss with your certifier/ might need design approval 

 

 

 

[cletus]

Or whittle up your own copies of original lower parts that arent forged or cast, then you could weld them straight to the tube 

[Adoom]

10 hours ago, _Matt said:

You could possible look into mounting the struts somewhat like this to give a touch more clearance to your bonnet.

 

I'm not sure what's going on there. How is the top hat mounted?

[Adoom]

10 hours ago, cletus said:

Or whittle up your own copies of original lower parts that arent forged or cast, then you could weld them straight to the tube 

I like this idea more than chopping up the top of the strut tower. But it sure will be a whole lot of whittlin'.

[BiTurbo228]

I'm guessing the strut tower has captive studs pointing down towards the wheel-well and is bolted on from underneath?

Rather than whittling up a new set, could you get a plate plasma cut? I've used sites like xometry before who do automated quoting for simple parts (which this would be). Not sure if they cater to the antipodes, but I'm sure there's local companies who can help out.

Nice work on the steering tie rods. I'm looking at a mill this weekend as I sense a similar thing in my future...

[Adoom]

11 hours ago, BiTurbo228 said:

I'm guessing the strut tower has captive studs pointing down towards the wheel-well and is bolted on from underneath?

Rather than whittling up a new set, could you get a plate plasma cut? I've used sites like xometry before who do automated quoting for simple parts (which this would be). Not sure if they cater to the antipodes, but I'm sure there's local companies who can help out.

Nice work on the steering tie rods. I'm looking at a mill this weekend as I sense a similar thing in my future...

The whittling option was referring to making a steel version of the cast lower cup thing with integral side flanges. That would be a lot of work.

But the plate option welded directly to the coil over strut tube is what I will likely go for, if I get technical approval. I do know a guy who can plasma/flame/laser cut stuff, but it's only 12mm, so I'd likely just use my bandsaw. 

[BiTurbo228]

I wouldn't be so concerned about the gearbox crossmember height (unless they're particularly ruthless in NZ). A lot of modern cars have ~150mm ground clearance, so raising the gearbox crossmember by 20mm should be plenty.

Useful to know the crossmember's 180mm though. I've had to drop mine by 10mm of so but that's still plenty (though the rack sticks out below that...).

[Stu]

For your brake line clamps etc I think I have a box of these floating around if they are of any use - I made a heap of them on the CNC.

 

If those dont work might be able to make you some custom ones if needed - might just take a couple of weeks to slot into the schedule as all my routers are running double shifts at the moment trying to keep up.

[Adoom]

5 hours ago, Stu said:

For your brake line clamps etc I think I have a box of these floating around if they are of any use - I made a heap of them on the CNC.

 

Thanks! Yours look way more refined than my blocks. But they look like they will be too big for me to use. I can make more blocky ones if needed on my manual mill. I might even think about rounding the corners or using the DRO for the spacing instead of "looks about right"... 

[tortron]

I got some pressed sheet metal ones off I think off summit racing a while back. Quite thick

[dmulally]

I think you should use some 10mm thick angle iron and be done with it. Man up. 

 

[Adoom]

Could anyone else with a Triumph that has a tandem brake master cylinder check which ports are for the front/rear please.

AFAIK, both lines go to a 5 port pressure imbalance switch thing on the passenger side. Then one comes back for the FR brake, one goes to the FL and another goes to the rear.

I've looked in the two workshop manuals and factory blue manual I have but they only show the routing for the earlier single circuit system.  

[VitesseEFI]

Sorry, don’t know. Many/most LHD cars had it but RHD is pretty much an Oz / NZ only thing, I assume due to local regs. Never seen a dual circuit one in the UK, though they may exist.  Bit of poking around my usual sources has draw a blank. 

What I do know is that you will struggle to bleed the clutch, just because it’s a Lockheed M/C. Devils work they are.  I’d run that line below the reservoir if at all possible as I think there’s a risk it’ll unbleed itself like that.

[Adoom]

3 hours ago, VitesseEFI said:

Sorry, don’t know. Many/most LHD cars had it but RHD is pretty much an Oz / NZ only thing, I assume due to local regs. Never seen a dual circuit one in the UK, though they may exist.  Bit of poking around my usual sources has draw a blank. 

What I do know is that you will struggle to bleed the clutch, just because it’s a Lockheed M/C. Devils work they are.  I’d run that line below the reservoir if at all possible as I think there’s a risk it’ll unbleed itself like that.

I'm running them high because the there is very little space between the engine and firewall. I came across a Staaaaaaaag brake diagram on Rimmer Bros which looks identical to the 2500 tandem system. The same master cylinder is listed for both cars. Front port goes to the rear brakes. I'm going to have separate short sections of pipe going to the master cylinder, so if It's wrong, I only need to remake those short bits.

[VitesseEFI]

Yes, good point, Stag info should work.

[Snoozin]

I've had nothing but good results with VHT caliper paint, Integra's rear calipers are currently painted in it, as are the KP rears. They are steel or cast iron or whatever they make them out of though. Might need to etch prime alloy first then use caliper paint.

[Adoom]

2 hours ago, Snoozin said:

I've had nothing but good results with VHT caliper paint, Integra's rear calipers are currently painted in it, as are the KP rears. They are steel or cast iron or whatever they make them out of though. Might need to etch prime alloy first then use caliper paint.

The stuff I have on my shelf is Duplicolor. I'll try some VHT. Thanks.

[Tiger Tamer]

I agree that you probably need an etching primer first. Alloy doesn’t like paint without prep.

Though I did use por15 on an alternator over ten years ago and it still looks great now. I used their cleaner etc . You can brush it on as it is self levelling. 

[Raizer]

2 hours ago, Adoom said:

The stuff I have on my shelf is Duplicolor. I'll try some VHT. Thanks.

Peel the label off the Duplicolor...

 

 

 

/Might be the other way around, but either way Duplicolor and VHT are the same thing, one brand has a stuck on label on the cans, peel it off and it has the other brand printed on the can.