Adoom

Adoom's 1972 Triumph 2000

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If you can get those front diff subframe mounts higher do it my mk1 which wasn't overly low smacked them into everything. One of my cars suffered a buckled floor from a speed bump stopping me in my tracks.

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Nissan is 12x1.25

Toyota 12x1.5

Falcon 1/2" 

HQ 7/16" Triumph should be 7/16" from memory 

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24 minutes ago, kyteler said:

Why wouldn't you mount off the side of the rail? 

I didn't want them sticking out into the engine bay possibly getting in the way. But it looks like I'm going to have to.

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1 minute ago, kyteler said:

I'd trust a mount on a rail more than one on the inner guard. 

 

That bit is actually pretty strong, it's the bottom of the strut tower, so it's got another ribbed reinforcing panel on the back of it that extends up to the top of the tower. 

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6 minutes ago, tortron said:

That sounds like triumph factory tolerances in all honesty.

That was the conclusion I came to as well, but I'm befuddled as to how the fuck I should know when it's straight and the car is not going to drive in circles when it should go straight.

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When you get a wheel alignment done they only measure the wheels, not the body.

When I did the Mercury rear suspension the alignment system checked the thrust angle (i.e is the rear in line with the front) and it was all good.

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1 hour ago, Nominal said:

When you get a wheel alignment done they only measure the wheels, not the body.

When I did the Mercury rear suspension the alignment system checked the thrust angle (i.e is the rear in line with the front) and it was all good.

Hmmmm, I guess I'd have to reinstall the front suspension and steering to the yellow shell and drag it to a wheel alignment place.... Extracting it from the garage will be a mission. Unless there is such a thing as a mobile wheel alignment, or is all the gubbins tethered to some doodah?

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9 hours ago, Adoom said:

Hmmmm, I guess I'd have to reinstall the front suspension and steering to the yellow shell and drag it to a wheel alignment place.... Extracting it from the garage will be a mission. Unless there is such a thing as a mobile wheel alignment, or is all the gubbins tethered to some doodah?

They are all computerised these days, need to be on site.

However, I set my suspension (4-link) at home with a tape measure, and the machine said it was dead on (0 degrees thrust angle). I guess my point is that the body can be out a bit so long as the wheels point in the right direction :)

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I've heard of people taking chassis to powdercoaters (think industrial scale) to have their steel chassis stress relieved in the powdercoaters ovens - let it "cook" over night then slowly come back down in temperature.

Worth a shot, and your item is a whole heap smaller...

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I modified my 1uz sump a while back. I welded it bolted to the block and it still warped. I found bolting it back to the block and putting feller blades between the block and sump in strategic places and tightening it down to try and bend it back, then using a gas torch to heat the sump to relieve the tension. It took a few attempts to get it back close. Then I machined the last mm or so out. 

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