Adoom Posted January 21, 2021 Author Share Posted January 21, 2021 10 hours ago, CUL8R said: Plasma cutter and die grinder with a good carbide burr would make short work of that.. Yeh, I'll probably do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muncie Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 Solution for your AN fittings space issue on oil lines, Tap for tapered NPT or BSP and get some angled fittings. Then you you can aim them away from each other enough to get the hoses tightened up. Or get some crimped to suit with bsp one end and AN female at other end to hook up to filter housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted January 31, 2021 Author Share Posted January 31, 2021 12 hours ago, Muncie said: Solution for your AN fittings space issue on oil lines, Tap for tapered NPT or BSP and get some angled fittings. Then you you can aim them away from each other enough to get the hoses tightened up. Or get some crimped to suit with bsp one end and AN female at other end to hook up to filter housing. Good idea. I managed to sort it another way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 Throw away the stainless nuts on the vee bands, use copper or zinc passivated.. Also you can salvage the old v-band by tig welding a bit of threaded rod or bolt thread, if you find yourself short. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted September 12, 2021 Share Posted September 12, 2021 Nice work on getting it running. You must be pleased. injectors could be sticky, worry about it later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted September 12, 2021 Author Share Posted September 12, 2021 2 hours ago, Nominal said: Nice work on getting it running. You must be pleased. injectors could be sticky, worry about it later. Thanks, it feels like I passed a milestone. I should probably move on to wrapping the loom with the expanding mesh sleeve stuff I bought yonks ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted October 8, 2021 Share Posted October 8, 2021 In my experience your leaks would disappear if you threw away those cool looking clamps and just used budget worm clamps. The t-bolt clamps can work OK-ish when you gave a barb or bead to shoulder to snug up against but seem to be near useless when clamping over a bit of parallel tube. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted October 8, 2021 Author Share Posted October 8, 2021 45 minutes ago, mjrstar said: In my experience your leaks would disappear if you threw away those cool looking clamps and just used budget worm clamps. The t-bolt clamps can work OK-ish when you gave a barb or bead to shoulder to snug up against but seem to be near useless when clamping over a bit of parallel tube. Damn, I got the cool looking clamps because there were going to be so many of them and right in your face. I did put a bead on the aluminium tube, using the modified vice grip method. Maybe it will help if I move the clamp right on top of the bead, rather than beside it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted October 8, 2021 Share Posted October 8, 2021 Nah not on top of the bead, just nicely snugged in behind it. Worm clamp will get a more even clamping force over those t bolt style which seem to pinch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted October 8, 2021 Author Share Posted October 8, 2021 Internet has suggested a lubricant between the silicone hose and the clamp allowing it to slip and not pinch the hose. I'll try that before I abandon $60 of clamps. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted October 9, 2021 Author Share Posted October 9, 2021 Lubricating the hose under the clamp with silicone spray so they don't pinch when tightening appears to have fixed the leaks. Now I'm trying to identify the cause of an oil leak at the adapter plate for the remote mount oil filter. I'm hoping it's just the figure 8 o-ring that needs replacing, not a pin hole in the weld. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted December 6, 2021 Share Posted December 6, 2021 Re chopping the car into smaller chunks, If you dont have a decent recipro saw, an axe is remarkably effective. I've chopped up a few cars that way. Take the roof off, then go through just in front of the rear wheels at the base of the C pillar, and at the base of the A pillar. I'll usually completely remove the B pillars too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegreatestben Posted December 6, 2021 Share Posted December 6, 2021 28 minutes ago, RUNAMUCK said: Re chopping the car into smaller chunks, If you dont have a decent recipro saw, an axe is remarkably effective. I've chopped up a few cars that way. Take the roof off, then go through just in front of the rear wheels at the base of the C pillar, and at the base of the A pillar. I'll usually completely remove the B pillars too. Geeze you might be okay on the older stuff but I'd love to see anyone take on a modern car with an axe. I let the magic smoke out of my recip cutting our Toyota Blade in half. The chassis rail/floor junction was THICC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corbie Posted December 6, 2021 Share Posted December 6, 2021 Probably talking about Datsuns, mostly rust anyway. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted December 6, 2021 Author Share Posted December 6, 2021 3 hours ago, RUNAMUCK said: an axe is remarkably effective. Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuu. You animal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted December 6, 2021 Share Posted December 6, 2021 3 hours ago, Corbie said: Probably talking about Datsuns, mostly rust anyway. The first time I saw an axe used, it was on a VG Valiant regal shell. I told the guy, you're off your head cunt. You cant cut up a car with an axe. Well he did. Thats where I learned the method. One night I cut up a 180B shell at @datto_610 flat after drinking for about 6 hours straight. (And riding my nifty 50 accross town tanked up with an axe between my feet) I unleashed my drunken fury on that car. (twas the Mid 2000's, and I was probably at my physical peak then) The next day I could barely lift my arms over my head. /It was a fucking good night! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted December 6, 2021 Share Posted December 6, 2021 And then in the morning it was the wrong car 2 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted December 28, 2021 Share Posted December 28, 2021 6mm is within Morris minor suspension geometry factory tolerance. Pretty lol seeing the massive spacers on the Friday job ones 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted August 16, 2022 Share Posted August 16, 2022 You can make tapperd holes by cutting the end off an old tie rod end and then drill a hole in the arm to the bolt size and heat it orange hot and drive it in. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted August 16, 2022 Author Share Posted August 16, 2022 12 hours ago, SOHC said: You can make tapperd holes by cutting the end off an old tie rod end and then drill a hole in the arm to the bolt size and heat it orange hot and drive it in. I've got no bottles for the OxyAcetylene so I am incapable of making it orange hot. But anyway, the Car Constructors manual specifies that the steering arm balljoint taper is to be reamed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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