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Don't build one of these ...


johnny.race

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The oil thinning out as everything gets hotter is really the only issue. Im yet to come up with a really good simple way to regulate flow.

 

Mines pretty crude and uses alot of oil. But i have unlimited waste oil so i dont care. Alot of other guys get really obsessed with economy. All i want is max heat and not bellowing smoke.

 

To light it i just get some paper or something with alittle kero, once there is some heat in the system it slowly winds up.

 

To make a really simple one, all it is is a bowl, a top plate with a few small holes. A pipe with holes in the side to reburn the hot gases and thast it. The rest is all about some way of transferring heat or whatever it is you want to do.

 

There are some good videos on youtube too.

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Ok so I've bought some plans from a nz company to build one.

And before I get burned on here for being lazy and not working it out myself :) I have very little spare time and wanted it to work first time.

How much do I have to change a design before I can call it my own?

Reason I'm asking is before I've even started I've got people asking me to build them one. Told them to get in line and wait cos my shit comes first.

Should have the plans tomorrow so might have to do a couple late nights.

From what I've read in the last few days since this thread started, Lots of people tend to have these burners running a wetback and use that to heat radiators in houses, workshops.  Some do underfloor heating and even heat swimming pools.

You're right, these are contagious but hopefully a lot of fun too :)

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Mk2 next door to the original grunter. This bad little heater is going to fire wayyy above its weight judging from initial observations. I have incorporated improvements (well i reckon they could be) I have thought about since cobbling together the big one. Deeper pan compared to the original so the flame will have to work/jump extra high. Less scrap to source by eliminating the brake rotor. A smaller diameter primary (I am sure that is what it is called or maybe not?) connecting the secondary burn chamber to help keep the velocity up and some big arse holes in the bottom of the secondary burn chamber thingy (that you cannot see in the pic) The exhaust on this is the same size as the big burner - look at the fucking size of it, lol! This is the full race version of the original :badgrin:   Its not finished but should be tomorrow if I pull my finger out. I did a 'test firing' of it to see if the flame would jump from the bottom pot high enuff to grab hold of some air through that ring of holes ... maaaate, friggin rocket motor! Haha!! But that was on gasoline mixed with my normal concoction. Confidence is high that this is going to go hard on the black stuff though. Churr.

 

P8140555.jpg

 
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Interested to see how the deeper pot works, been thinking about using another cylinder to make a pot too. I dont like the brake rotor idea.

Every time i go to the rubbish dump i take old cylinders back home lol.

 

Also wondering what effects diameter and length of the secondary burn chamber has.

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This is the first burn. You gotta turn your head sideways to look at the vid, lol! I am useless. The size, placement and amount of holes must just be about right. This ran very well 'straight out of the box' I used the same oil flow as I did for the big one. Also, this one seems to run hotter and with no tractor chuffing sounds. The paint didn't peel off the secondary pot on the big one like it has been doing on this one. I am planning on dressing this thing up with heavy iron in order to use the heat more efficiently ie a heat bank.

 

http://vid528.photobucket.com/albums/dd329/race_hemi/P8150562.mp4

 

 

 

 

 

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Finished. Added some heavy iron to the exterior of the secondary pot in the form of scrap reo bar and offcuts from bulldozer tracks. Plonked a length of chain on top also. All this in an effort to increase the effective use of the heat this thing puts out. This cloak of iron on the outside is dense and emits heat for yonks after the flame has been extinguished.

 

P8180573.jpg

 

Tested it last night by running it for a few hours. It got toasty and passed its 'ready to be put into service' test. 

 

P8180587.jpg

 

Opps - wrong pic.

 

P8180570.jpg

 

A mate gave me a temp gauge he pulled off a BBQ. Its a contact type but because it was an after thought on this beastie I just sat it on top of the chain links. Even with no contact - this bad little fucker pegged the dial, lol!

 

P8180577.jpg

 

The next trick will be the installation. I have decided to put it inside the shed. I have nutted out a basic refueling system and some safety provisions in my head. I'm in no rush and need to make room first. I've picked up some more LPG pots also in order to make a few to flick off on TM ... if I can get off my chuff.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

The plans I have have got wetback options.

They have a 20mm copper tube entering into the bottom of the burn tube (longer burn tube more like the first one pictured on here) just above the old disc brake, it runs up the center and exits out the top beside the flue.

Apparently one tube runs a modern style radiator 1.8m long up to 5m away from the burner.

Could fit a few wetback tubes in there and run your hot water cylinder plus a few radiators in the house while the main unit heats the workshop, Everyone wins :)

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This pic was taken to show what happened to the gauge. This would have occurred sometime after the last pic was taken of it pegging the dial. When i was putting it away the next morning I noticed the needle could not be seen on the gauge ... plus the gauge looked a little faded and shit. I peered into it trying to see what happened to the needle ... couldn't see nothing so pulled it apart. It must have got hot. The needle got toasted and all of the 'black' left the gauge face and turned into this reddy color.

 

P9020598.jpg

 

Don't leave these things in your shed together ... because they breed like little fricken Daleks.

 

P9020597.jpg

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

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