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BlownCoronas Cyclecar


BlownCorona

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cant wait. 

 

im going to be ordering the rear axle soon, do you think a simple keyway will be enough to put the torque down?

 

other options are to weld on a hub flange to bolt the wheel to, but this will make it hard/imposible to change the brake disk or sprockets in the middle, plus both of those items are going to need the same degree of fastning 

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im looking at 30hp through mine. 

 

lol at og austin 7s being keyed, 

 

i guess having any weakpoint such as a keyway isnt too bad, might stop axles and chains snapping etc. whats the best way to get a keyway put into something thats just round? ie the ID of the rims im using, i will just get the engineering company to mill in the key when i get the axle made up. 

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Any engineering place will be able to mill or, broach or slot the keyways for ya, buddy.

You WILL NOT shear the key if its all done to correct tolerances. If its too loose and your grubscrews come undone etc you will hammer the slots out and start rolling the keysteel over.

There ARE other easier ways you can lock things together HOWEVER the labour saving will be made up by the greater cost of the locking device.

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Taperlock bushes are great! There are many types and brands of locking/ clamping bushes and sleeves though.

I'm having a blank on the actual names but if you phone a local bearing supplier and tell them what you are doing and what you wish to achieve they will be able to steer you in the right direction pretty quickly.

Edit edit

Nm

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mitch is probably the right person to ask. but im looking at running a 1 inch solid rear axle. as i can get hubs to suit, and i can drill these hubs to suit drive for the wheels, brake disk and sprocket. 

 

surely 1 inch is gonne be plenty strong enough?

 

ps thank to the mod that cleaned up the mess from last night, and thanks to the continued constructive input/criticism from most parties, its very helpful and welcome. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

got my front suspension 99% finished, will brace up stuff in due course, esspecially the spindles, as i pretty much only tacked those in place before i ran out of time tonight, but my suspension at this stage feels excellent, its a bit soft, but i have no air in the tires and the shocks are all finger tight, so im pretty sure it will come up just right, 

 

IMAG0348.jpg

 

IMAG0349.jpg

 

also after seeing how the suspension works, im wondering if our 2 pages on trick steering design was in vain and a normal setup will work fine haha i will see soon anyway

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You could always double shock the suspension if its too soft. Would the arms fit another shock eye in width wise?

like those ridiculous yank trucks with 6 shocks per side per wheel etc.

Drove past an old small bulldozer in a paddock with the sweetest front cowl and cover that would look mint on this..know you've got yours sussed though.

Keep it up

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Hey man great build

My old man built us electric karts when we were kids

(6v VW generator on 12v battery)

He used a morris minor window regulator for the steering at the end of the steering column to the "tie rods"

Kinda works like a rack and pinion and the steering wont be so touchy

qjze0xbo.i4m.jpg

cut the long arm off (I'm sure I didn't need to explain that)

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