Rookie Posted July 30, 2012 Author Share Posted July 30, 2012 Also I converted the final drive on this to 4pk multi vee, sooo much better and no slip, would trade again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toucan Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 Should have brought it to the track on Saturday, could have run with the karts haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIRK Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 multi v sounds like a good plan then. my a section belt is slippryer than a bowl of eel soup even though its tigher than a nuns. was guna goto hamahardware today and buy some crc belt stop slip and see if that helps but its raining Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alfalfa Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 A-section driving a rim sucks balls. This is so lush now, millions better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark105 Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 multi v sounds like a good plan then. my a section belt is slippryer than a bowl of eel soup even though its tigher than a nuns. was guna goto hamahardware today and buy some crc belt stop slip and see if that helps but its raining nah crc belt slip couldnt handle when i tried it. A sections are shit. cambelts are where its at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sentra Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 kirk, before you change to serp/cambelt, try running it randomdrive style (twisted), we got 100% better traction in the mud that way, the downside?, through some voodoo math magic, the belt ends up slightly longer this way and may end up outside of your tensioner. in hindsight, why we ever used a-section is beyond me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIRK Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 i used a section cos thats what saeco sold me/told me to buy. My belt dont seem to want to twist like yours. its ok, dont slip too bad. Its good cos it means i don't go too fast, can only use 2/3 throttle haha. gota solve terrible handling before i go for more speed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted August 28, 2012 Share Posted August 28, 2012 rookie rookie rookie hi i was having box issues (lol) on the ariel, topped it up with gear oil then decided to check what they actually need. a light grease/oil mix! i did not know this. explains the grease nipple additional to oil filler hole tho. some of the old ones rolled straight up grease and wont have seals to cope with oil, possibly why yours pisses its contents out at such a sweet rate? other than being haggard. expecting a massive puddle in my garage now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted August 28, 2012 Share Posted August 28, 2012 ANG ABOUT, are we talking about albion boxes here? Mine leaks like a fuck, and is rather loud, could this be due to me putting normal gear oil in it? Any info on the kinda grease oil combo/ratio one should use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted August 28, 2012 Author Share Posted August 28, 2012 I recently found it out after playing with the albion boxes in the garage and doing research, but have been too lazy to try it. Apparently 50/50 mix of old school spec grease and 90 wt gearbox oil is the go. Pretty much the same for all old British boxes. Apparently though if it can't hold the oil component of the mix for a week it's time for a rebuild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted August 28, 2012 Share Posted August 28, 2012 Cheers for the info, will try it in mine. i'm pretty sure my bearings are rooted, but i'm too lazy to strip the box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
durty Posted August 28, 2012 Share Posted August 28, 2012 Apparently though if it can't hold the oil component of the mix for a week it's british. FTFY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 nice. my box is a burman, heres a little info that seems to be relevant to my issues.. The burman gearbox has no sprung loaded stops for the gears as modern gearboxes now have. This means the gears are kept in position by the selector forks only. If there is misalignment or wear on the three shafts or gear bushes, the gears put pressure on the selector forks. Burring and burning, mainly on the forks occurs and the gears lock mid-selection. This has happened to my gearbox. It works okay when unloaded, but when you put my (heavy) weight onto it, it locks. In the earlier models, pre-1953, a heavy oil and grease mix is recommended. The heavy mix should help keep the gears in place once selected better than a lighter viscosity oil. Avoid using gearbox oil. I've been told that it polishes and further hardens the surface-hardened gears, shafts and selectors increasing wear. not sure what make of box you're running rookie but it/the albions may share similar design shortcomings. apparently the burmans pre '48 were grease lubed, then they put better seals in and were able to hold a grease oil mix. might drain my mystery mix and put a fresh mix in. would be so lush if i can get it to shift one gear, instead of one and a half! anyone know about compatibility of greases and oils? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 This is quite relevant to my interests. 50/50 grease oil mix sounds mean. What sorta grease? Real oldschool softish stuff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UTERUS Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 I was going to say there are probably greases out there now which do the job of clinging to the parts where grease normally would, and splash lubricating where the oil would normally hang out, but that may be expensive. Ideally we want to know if mixing wheel bearing(cheapest?) grease and some ep90 yeah? I have some kicking around here, so I'll whip up a batch to see what I can blend, and report back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 Mobil EP2 is a basic ol grease, the oil and soap separate quite easily, so i'd imagaine mixing more oil in would work a treat? I'm also guessing lithium based grease would be better to use than molybdenum? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 arent albion boxes actually burmans? Albion = bike brand? Burman = pre unit gearbox of several variations used in various brnds of motorcycle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 You can get a real tacky grease for Landrover swivel hubs - comes in 300ml(?) plastic bags that you cut the tip off and use like a cake piping bag. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 Like this - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 I used to sell a Synthetic Liquid Grease, came in 20L pails, and was like a trillion bucks, option for money badgers maybe? And Mr Tom, i'm pretty sure albion only make gear boxes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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