shavenYak Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 This weekend I will be putting a rebuilt 4g63 into the L200. It has new main and big end bearings and new rings. Would like some tips on running/breaking in - everything from what oil to use, to how to drive it. Sorry I know this has probably been covered, but I couldn't find the threads. Feed me your info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 from what I've read, rather than true experience: mineral oil, nothing too expensive as your just going to be changing it relatively shortly the engine needs some load to bed the rings in but not 1 million rpm so when its first started you should really take it for a reasonable open road drive as soon as you have it idling and running ok. then after something like 500km you should change the oil and put in whatever you would normally use, which in this case might be just that same as what you used for run in, castrol GTX or what have you or the right viscosity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shavenYak Posted September 21, 2011 Author Share Posted September 21, 2011 http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm yeah read that one - goes against most of the other write ups on the net, but sounds like the most exciting method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 Nah nah nah, its the bizzo, trust a player. Haaannng on, this is for the mitsy, dont their rings come pre-worn out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borgweiser Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm I do this with two strokes and modern cars, wouldn't reccomend so much with older 4cyl.. There are plenty of good running in oils, but i'd use cheap multigrade as said before and take for long drive taking it out just before redline in each gear slowly, and increase load after 500k's, after 1000, skids on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 I did what that man said with my 4age, and its still happy as shit, seemed to work a treat. His logic made sence to me, so thats why I went with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avenga Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 I did the same thing with my Avenger and Charger engine rebuild. I do 300KM of fanging it through the country roads. I usually do my place warkworth and back via SH16 twice letting it cool down before each run. Heavy acceleration and deceleration. Load the engine up on hills but don't give it full noise for too long, maybe 20 seconds max at a time. My engine builder builds race engines etc and this is the method he told me to use. Plus it is fun as all hell fanging a new engine. You can feel the engine change as you do the running in process, My Avenger engine started really rough but tightened up during the running in. You could feel the power increase as the rings sealed better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 on my zed motor i did open road drive without taking overn 300prm to start with, then after another 50km started taking revs out more and more. but dont fast rev it for a few hundred anyway. your drive back to parmy should be good for it. try taking it over the saddle road to get some load or somthing also Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shavenYak Posted September 21, 2011 Author Share Posted September 21, 2011 sweet, yeah ok I might do a mixture of both methods Saddle road is not optional, the gorge has been closed for almost a month now due to slips! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sorensin Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 After a quick skim read i didnt see anyone mention 30mono grade oil for running in a engine. Not sure you should use a that oil but have heard u should. Maybe google? but its sold pretty much everywhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 Penrite do a 15W40 mineral running in oil without any friction modifiers which would prevent the rings from bedding in properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 halve the red line. use that as the new red line for the first the first 500kms then change oil/ drive as normal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 I Ussually go up the hill from governers bay to the sign of the kiwi a dozen times or so. Coasting back down each time with the motor off. Keeping the gears up, but not letting the motor run too slow. One engine I ran in by doing a repeated max speed test. Four or five times up and down a 6.8km straight of road. We even towed it there so the fesh engine wouldn't have to idle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jase Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 this^ i rebuilt a chevette and gem motor a year apart, dropped them in with a new filter and mineral oil, drove to the rei changed oil, filter and continued happily motoring, so around about a 350km run in with varied loads and throttle positions/revs. Victory rev's on a fresh start to 3 quarter throttle seem to help also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shavenYak Posted September 22, 2011 Author Share Posted September 22, 2011 went and bought some flash Lucas break-in oil today, as well as some cheaper 30 monograde and a couple of filters. Exciting stuff! Hopefully be in Hastings on Friday, and drive back to Palmy friday night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cubastreet Posted September 22, 2011 Share Posted September 22, 2011 flash Lucas the only time i seen those words together before was to do with industrial light and magic. This is how i bedded the new rings in on my scoot the other day. read basically the same thing years ago when i rebuilt a crossflow. I then read a running in guide that said the opposite and i was like shit have i done the wrong thing, but now i feel good again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael0008 Posted September 22, 2011 Share Posted September 22, 2011 http://www.xtremethings.com/Engineering/PDF-Refs/Break-In_Secrets.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shandangles Posted September 22, 2011 Share Posted September 22, 2011 the dyno is the best place to run in an engine, let warm up, a bit of getting lower revs sorted then super max load but never redline for first 1000kms. how i did mine and its prime Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted September 22, 2011 Share Posted September 22, 2011 Breaking in an engine seems just like choosing an engine oil. Everyone's method is divergent not inclusive. As in, "I did this and it works fine, therefore its what you should do" Doesnt mean that doing something else wouldnt have acheived the same result. What happens to factory new motors? They dont get any special oil or run in for 1000s of kilometers in a particular way. What I would be interested to know, is who has run in an engine and then had it FAIL, or glaze the rings or whatever, what were the symptoms, and how was this diagnosed as the issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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