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azzurro's 1969 FIAT 125 discussion


azzurro

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Hey check out this guy very good with old school will be worth your time to go for a drive and have a chat his work shop is one row back from the street just drive in you will find it tell him either Shane or Max or Billy sent you. He comes on the play days we go to as well.

Paul runs Marua Automotive, 166 Marua rd, Ellerslie, Auckland 579 3315.

He has a nice cossi in there and a few other cars about.

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Hey man good to see you today, be much keen on a hoon with that carb tool, ill pm you you to discuss further - happy to pay postage etc + beer tokens

Sorry bro, this i have not done - the Fiat Twin Cam uses a shim on bucket setup (set and forget) rather than an adjustable nut type thing and you need a special tool (or a specially bent screwdriver) and a box of shims.to swap in/out to gain the correct cleances neither of which i have. I may have a guy lined up to do mine for me but i need to take my car to him he wont lend his tools.

this is a proper twincam tool, but you can use a sohc tool which just goes on one side of the bucket, ive done it a couple of times with one of those which is pretty much the same as one for a VW sohc golf motor

dohc tool

dohc-shim-tool.jpg

sohc tool

img06111l.jpg

basically you have to rotate the cam lobe away from the valve, push the bucket/valvespring down with the tool then use a small flat screwdriver and some needle nose pliers to extract the shim from the top of the bucket. then you can measure the shim with a 0-25mm or 0-1" micrometer and work out what you need. swap in the new shim, put it back in and recheck the clearance with feeler gauges.

it's not that hard really but you do need a few shims (i.e. a bunch of spare motors to pinch them from) to mix and match with

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

^Cheers guys^

I thought id put my nats list here then i can tick things off as they are done:

my relatively short and easy list:

- fix leaking LH rear caliper (again!)

- go back to exhuast place to get muffler moved so it stops taptaptapping on universal joint going around corners (just like i said it would .grr.)

- pull carbs off (again) and see if i can find whats going on esp. with the rear one. Its deffo dellorto drip. need to pay a guy :(

- fit pertronix/timing/sparkplugs

- fit new lada ignition switch

last weekend:

ign switch in. one pin out doesnt work as anticpated. bodgey bridge effective - electrics are go, except lights/indicators work with the key off/out. may change the bridged pin source so only has off/run/start and forget about ACC.

cleaned sparkplugs again.

fitted the pertornix to dizzy/timed by eye. didnt start first go. went back inside.

(I read the instructions again, - Step 1: remove capacitor... :rolleyes: )

this week after work:

with the help of my boy got the car running again with the new pertronix. I had the timing 'right', but for some reason wont run without a bit more advance. I had closed up the spark plug gap a bit as well, so maybe thats it?

also had to trim back the steering wheel boss and plastic column shoud as the new switch sits a bit prouder.of the socket. took ages.

Today:

Spent the morning trolling the interwebs re my carbs, symptoms are classic dellorto drip (unbalanceable carbs, one (or both) barels rich/idle mix has no effect) - sometimes the lead plugs used to block drilled passages can work loose and let (unmetered) fuel from the bowl into the main jet stack. Ive emailed a few carb places to see what they say - the fix is basically to pull the outer lead plugs to get to the inner leaky ones and replace with grub screws. This means 4 teeny and 4 tiny grub screws (2 for each barrell) right inside the carbs so might not be cheap). Played with the balancer again anyway, idles nice again.

Removed leaky rear caliper, ended up that the replacement seals i used when i refreshed the calipers was maybe not tight enough on the piston. Reservior was almost empty again! Swapped in an old seal and seems to be holding. This was the fix i did on the other side and that hasnt leaked again so fingers crossed. Ive left the rim off and a paper towel to see in the morning.

Just the exhaust to be adjusted and the carbs to be fixed now.

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  • 1 month later...

dude - now im trying to get the fiat going.

anyway, i noticed in your build thread you had some solid blue brake fluid reservoir hose (from autoricambi.us?) then another photo further down the thread it had black braided hose. which one have you got on at the moment?

i have had the black one for the past 4 years and looks like the fluid seemed to have permeated through and leaked all over master cylinder.

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hey sam, nice work.

I had some black stuff a while back and it leaked/went soft, it was probably from the same roll at supercheap yours is of! lol. Stink about the leaks, make sure you get it off or your paint will go with. Also make sure that you get a tight fitting hose and use good hose clamps, as the seam from the mould on the plastic barbs likes to wick fluid out if its not a good fit.

later on my nice colour matched blue cotton braided hose has probalby gotten all grubby as it soaks up the oil :) Thats why most hose is black.

Before that it still had the original clear Cavis stuff that was working fine but it had gone hard and yellow so i took it off and binned it. You can still get it (from overseas) if you are keen on keeping the original look.

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cool thanks - have you got some leftover of that (and maybe the boot rubber - i think you told me you got it from spain?)?

mine is single circuit type so needs to be about 6 inches long. funny thing is though i bought the black braided hose from some brake shop so its supposed to be good, maybe reservoir has a wee crack, who knows.

in any case, gotta get the motor running first before thinking about brakes and all the rest.

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dude,

just put a twin circuit on, i bet the only difference will be the cylinder and reservoirs. I have some resovoiurs you can have, and cylinders are cheap.

your car must be a super early model to have a single circuit?

Im intrigued, just looking at my manual, (only one of the 3 i have has the single cicuit mentioned), looks like no vaccuum boost either, but the servo has all the holes to hook it up to just blanked off?

Come steal some bits bei, cant be too safe

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it's an early '68 i think. i dont think mine has rear brake compensator either - im gonna keep it the way it is unless i cant get the parts. the simple it is the better i say, and for me, it is one of the major attractions of driving an old school (apart from getting hassled by everyone its a lada lol).

unfortunately, it does have a brake booster - was gonna ditch it because i had a plan to go x2 IDFs but going back to basic.

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  • 1 month later...

Good score on those Fiat parts! Especially the cam wheels. Bummer one of those domed 1600cc pistons were damaged as they go mint in the 2lt block, raising compression slightly.

Get some old solex carbs from a 130tc as they will be perfectly jetted for the 2lt engine. I would give you mine but they leak fuel horrendously. Should be easy to get a set though.

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cheers man, im pretty stoked,

 

ive started a bit of a list for more stuff and I forgot a few things too, so ill be going back - he has literal pipes of fiat stuff - any orders?

 

My 1600 is an early series (1608cc) and the pistons dont fit in a 2l block (80 vs 84mm diameter) but i think the later 1600 blocks (ie 1582cc) pistons would fit as they are based on a 2l with a short stroke?

 

My twin dellortos are from a 2l alfa and i have the original jets  :)

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not the *1592cc  thats 80mm bore than 79.something mm stroke

 

you want 1585cc pistons or 1756cc pistons. I think some of the 1585cc ones give proper compression (12:1??)  as there are different dome heights depending which 1585

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Ahh true, so they are. I used late model Regatta pistons which I think are those 1585cc ones. They don't boost the compression up that high as my block was from the late XSRPM which already had 1mm skimmed off it and my compression was only a touch over 11:1.

Anyways like Tom said 130hp with torque should make it go hard.

2 1/2 inch exhaust will make it rev happy too.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Looks 2 different numbers to me

 

Top = 4192026

Bottom = 4192029

 

Could it be they are a matched pair of cams where one is exhaust and the other inlet?

For the tainspotters you will note that the casting numbers on two cams are the same but their lift measurements, design and lobe styles are much different.
u78j.jpg

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