Lincooln

Discuss: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/31502-lincoolns-1986-fuego-turbo/?hl=%2Bfuego+%2Bturbo Yay lots have been happening. So engine was finally dis-assembled, cleaned of all the huge amount of varnish buildup. Poor old motor hadn't been very well looked after apparently. Frans helped me CC the head to check on how much need to be skimmed off. this was due to the cam needing 8.5-8.7 compression. Turns out it was all good. Took the head into the head shop, resurfaced the valves, bead blasted head, re do the valve seats, then I took block in to be cleaned properly, and a small amount of corrosion on the liner seats on 1 and 4 was discovered, so that needs to be fixed. Engine mounts are being re rubbered with solid infills to minimize twist. Radiator has been checked,cleaned and painted, starter has been rebuilt, alternator has been re built. Need to get some shim stock to make spacers for the liners. This is due to Frans machining a lip into the top of the cylinder liner, this then compressors into teh fire ring on the head gasket. providing better sealing and less chance for the liner to move and break the bottom seal. Engine will need to be painted once it is back together, also need to clean intake Manifield, paint lots of little bits and get the clutch rebuilt and flywheel machined. But it is getting there. Hopefully have the motor back in the hole before I start racing in October. Picture dump below. Pictures of Clean parts, old dirty parts and an engine block being disassembled in a lounge.

More stuff. Cam is now re-ground. and the followers re surfaced. My cam guy was not happy about making the cam and the followers flat, but he did it. haha, but he did forget to press on the cam sprocket. Cam is a turbo mild road and I will post up a full cam spec card when I get it soon. It is a huge difference to the original cam, which is very cool indeed. Specs of the new cam: Looks like I will need to check the compression ratio now, as the standard one is 8.1, but the head has been ground a bit, but I feel like it will need more. And this coupled with a new turbo, should be some fun. Auckland Cams #206 I Intake duration @010”: 266 degrees Exhaust duration @.010”: 266 degrees Intake duration @050”: 211 degrees Exhaust duration @.050”: 211 degrees Intake cam lift: .244” Exhaust cam lift: .244” LCA: 112 degrees Mild Road Turbo cam. Strong midrange and good upper rpm performance. This cam will give a slight idle. Works best with 8.5-8.7:1 compression ratio. Timing at .050” lifter rise Intake opens 4.5 deg ATDC Intake closes 35.5 ABDC Exhaust opens 39.5 deg BBDC Exhaust closes 8.5 BTDC Intake centerline: 110 deg ATDC Exhaust centerline 114 deg BTDC Intake valve lash: .012”” Exhaust valve lash: .014” Cheers Henry van Vugt Auckland Camshafts Limited Old Cam Specs: Intake duration @010”: 240 degrees Exhaust duration @.010”: 240 degrees Intake duration @050”: 175 degrees Exhaust duration @.050”: 175 degrees Intake cam lift: .195” Exhaust cam lift: .195” LCA: 111 degrees And Because I have been asked as to hwy the followers are flat, here is an explantion: Two reason for this. firstly, this design has been proved through Numerous race motors built by Frans, and some of his reasoning is at this link:http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/technical-performance/89618-807-competition-motor-2.html and secondly, looking at it from a lubrication point of view, as the follower is offset on the cam lobe (50-75% coverage of the lobe), it naturally gets a rotation going, also being flat will help induce hydrodynamic lubrication. As in when the follower reaches the top or bottom of the lobe, it draws oil under itself, which is enough to keep it lubricated for the lift/drop of the valve. The rotation insures that new oil is still being brought in under the follower and even wear is achieved. At least that is how I see it playing out...

Well some real progress for a change. I have ordered a set of pistons, rings, liners and connecting pins for about $800nzd including shipping from France. So one step closer. Now I need a new cam chain and the engine can be stripped and re assembled completely. Other things to buy include Turbo, Clutch, machine flywheel and engine mounts. I have been painting the engine bay lately and today I got some colour on it. Wet sand it during the week and polish it. Not too bad for my first time spraying anything let alone 2k. Prep work let me down a bit, but not going for a show car look so not too fussed. looks heaps better than it did before. Photo drop below.

It's Painted!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Well its been donley years since I last posted on here and Lots of have happened since. There will be a huge picture dump too, so its not all words. It now runs a fully rebuilt new petrol spec motor built in accordance with the HQ series rules. This was done fairly cheap. We used the Avgas block as that had already had plenty of money spent on it back when it won the championship. Kept the Crank, the shot peened rods, the old race pistons. We got the last set of rings for those pistons left in the country as they are a discontinued item now. I ended up having to get a brand new head, got it for a steal at $500. We tried another head we had but found it had a big crack almost the whole way from side to side across the number 5 cylinder. We thought the diff was a locked item a sit would chirp the inside wheel, we pulled it put and it was just a really tight open diff, so we just drained the old oil and refilled with Lubrication Engineers oil. Runs nice and quiet. I also ended up buying the new wheels and tyres that we have to run in the class but I lacked the budget so that played against me at my first meet at Hampton Downs. We also ended up replacing the bonnet too as you can't run any extra venting. So my first race meet was at hampton downs. as mentioned earlier the tyres were brand new so were slippery as. The reason is they are just a normal Nankang road tyre, when the tyres are new they have big tread blocks that move, heat up and melt and make it slippery as. Just like a wet tyre on a v8 supercar in the dry etc. The racing was good. I qualified 6th out of 10 and in the first race finished last as the car handled like shit. So we swapped teh rear shocks out and put in Bilsteins we had lying around. Well to say the difference was night and day would be an understatement. The pedders that were in there offered no control or any thing, the bilsteins are reliable, offer heaps of control, don't do anything weird etc. Well worth it. The second and third races went much better with me being able to get a few good battles in and just enjoying the car. By the end of the weekend though the car was down on power quite a bit. It turns out it was the coil, so I replaced it with one I had lying around from the Lada and mounted it on the firewall away from the heat as much as possible. The last coil died due to it not having a ballast resistor, new one does not need it, I also relocated the kill switch so I could reach it while racing and covered up the wiring behind the dash. also got a new clutch from my team mate, just had to have a freshen up. Turns out the old clutch was a good one all the same being a brand new RPM clutch. Pics from Hampton and the work that went into it: So the next round was over easter and it was the final for the HQ's and the IRC rounds. After hampton along with the other stuff I mentioned we also got an alignment done with thanks to professional tyres and automotive in Takanini. changed engine oil again and painted the underside of the bonnet and in the boot. We also changed out the pads and put in Ferrodos. Otherwise it was good to go. So Taupo was wet, so I was happy as. Got some good practice in and the car was so much better. It turned in way better an the stopping power was just insanely better with much better pedal feel. I got 4th in qualifying on a damp track and with a completely broken seat too that was moving all around. The first race was also only damp, I came up to the hairpin going onto the back straight on the first lap, locked up and went potato digging. So me and another guy had an epic battle for a few laps until I got bored and started to drive off. The second race was wet, so I was happy as. I started off in 8th and got to third by the first corner. I was heaps quicker with the heavily treaded tyre. but as I was on the front straight coming into my second lap the gearbox broke. The input shaft gear broke 4 teeth off and chipped third gear. We thought we had a spare but instead we had two diffs and no gearbox. so that was it for the weekend. My team mate however won the championship, even after a big engine fire. So in the off season it will be painted, new seat, new gauges, probably rewire it completely and make the kill switches actually work, try some endless brake pads for it. Will also go to a few track days to take family and friends out, might do an enduro with my team mate and try and do at least one hill climb. I will try and keep this updated too. link to my teams facebook page; https://www.facebook.com/pages/Hazzard-Motorsport/358992234190634?ref=hl Link to the HQ and super six club: https://www.facebook.com/pages/NZ-Six-HQ-Super-6-Saloons-North-Island/226539434200346

Holy crap I have not added anything to this for ages!!! Well its kinda running now. Finally after chasing a couple of problems for ages. Came upon one major problem which was that it couldn't run the standard dizzy setup with the EFI manifold as the injectors got in the way. So I found a kit online that is a dizzyless ignition system. It is a Compu-Tronix unit and works on Fiats and Fords. Sweet kit with everything in it from leads to wiring harness etc. Spark is meant to be 50x stronger than a conventional setup so yay. Looks sweet with a coil pack now too. The computer and all the wizardry fits in the thing that looks kinda like the old dizzy and it bolts straight in. Can't say enough about this kit. Had a few problems with the EFI kit, missing the double relay, and numerous other bits. Got it all sorted though. Went to start it and the original fuel pump seized so had to buy a new one, got a 044. Much better now. Also had to by pass the surge tank as it wasn't working right as the lift pump could not keep up with the 044 so currently to get it running it is now sucking straight from tank with return to tank. To set it up right I kinda need a four port surge tank (return to surge, lift to surge, EFI pump feed and overflow/pressure relief to tank) so that's annoying. Will see how this way goes for now. Filled the cab with fuel as I had hooked up the fuel return line in the engine bay but didn't check the tank connection as I was lazy and it wasn't there. So filled it all up. Typical. Sorted that issue and it was much better. After a month of leaving it open to get rid of the fuel smell. Finally got it running on Saturday. Main problem I think was that the throttle position sensor needed to be re-calibrated so I did that and it fired up straight away. Have run it a few times now but at the moment it won't start again, re did timing, reset the TPS again and new plugs too. No luck. Can't work it out. Battery is now being re-charged so will see if that helps. I wanted to get it going again so that I could get it for a drive and clear it out. It had old fuel but I have drained that and refilled with good 98 too, which will help the plugs fouling up. Sounds cool and seems way smoother and a lot happier to rev now than it used to be with the carb setup. Looking forward to getting out in the mud. I just need to tidy up some wiring, change the oil, thinks that's the main gist of it all. Pics: To be added tomorrow as I need to get some new pics of the setup as I only have old ones at the moment. Bare with me.

So I have fixed all the gearbox leaks with new gaskets etc, got a new tailshaft housing, I have also had it to Pukekohe once now. It went alright, had a constant missing issue that got worse, also was leaking fuel from the carb and the front bolts on the sump were loose so leaked a bit of oil. oh and the tappatey things in the head are well and truly fucked so they need to be replaced soon too. I will be rebuilding the AVGAS motor so i have got new bearings ordered through Auckland Cams and will get new tappatey things soon too. Might look at getting some new ACL things ( ithink its ACL) as they are stopping making things for the HQ/ going out of business in6 months so will get some some spares. Fixed the oil leak by tightening things up and spreading some poo on the sump join. The missing issue I am sure was a grounding issue as I had just one earth and it was a crap one, so now I have 3 and it seems to be ok. Also got the gear linkages sorted for smooth quick changes. The car fixed the fuel leaking carb after it had proper grounding, probably glad I fixed it. Had the radiator unblocked a sit was over half blocked and they even painted it for me. So far the I have spent $150 on the car which was the radiator. Also found out it has a locker rear in it. Handles awesome though. looking forward to getting back out there. A few piccies:

Hey man. Nah these are not allowed. Have to run shit looking 15" kumho? Wheels. Sucks as these tyres and wheels handle and look better

so been having issues. Drained engine oil, only no more man two litres came out, so hopefully it has done no damage. Gearbox is leaking like a sieve. From the Tail shaft to gearbox seal, form the O-ring in gearslector panel, the whole gear selector panel and from the speedo cable bolt hole too. Also the tail Shaft has been broken and re welded, so it could be that it has warped. Still also need to get the bits too hook up the driveshaft as they did not come with the car. so work will be done on it after Labour weekend as next weekend is dads birthday weekend and then labour weekend is the first round of the HQ series so I will be pit crewing down in Taupo. No Pictures either sorry

Oh yea the basic head gasket is cheap as chips, so is the exhaust/intake gasket, its just a pain in the arse to have to do it when it hot in between races. Nicer not to have to worry. Also AVGAS can compete, but not eligible for series points at this stage anyway. Nearly ready to go now. Just got driveshaft to go and then the new oils, clutch cover and alternator bracket. Have had engine running and there are some suspect sounds. So no more running till I have the good oil and its driveable so I can actually tell what noises are what. Then, skid time.

Well this weekend I got the rest of the wiring sorted, connected clutch, connected gear linkage, painted odd bits and pices, had to re-do the Water Pump gasket as the previous dude had done it and it leaked like a bowl made out of swiss cheese. Water blasted underneath a bit to get rid of the old oil and try and see where the G-box is leaking from. Some dodgy looking poo's on it so will keep an eye on it when it gets going. Left to do is hook up the drive-shaft, and then fit all the Oils that I sell into, so Diff oil, Gearbox, and engine, and will probably use my high temp grease in the wheel bearings too. All for reliability. Oh the oil is Lubrication Engineers. Absolutely the best shit around, no exceptions. Picco's:

the current block in the car is a standard petrol one with the AVGAS head, carb and baffled sump. I have the AVGAS block as well. We are unsure if we will rebuild the AVGAS motor or if we can for just a little bit more build a current spec petrol motor. Reason for this is that with an AVGAS motor it was not uncommon to change a head gasket a day or more, especially when some of the guys were running 16:1. I would like to enter the last two or so rounds of this series starting, then go all out next season. I would also need to get the tail lights changed, get the legal wheels and tyres, repaint, fit bonnet without holes and a couple of small things as well to meet spec. Hopefully will be out on track in a couple of weeks or so all going well

So tonight I wired up the tail lights, brake lights and front lights. I will not use the head lights and most likely will remove them completely to make sure that they don't get smashed up. also will be putting in original HQ tail lights at some point so I can comply with the HQ series rules. But these will do for now. Piccies: Brakes Brakes and Tail lights Front Lights tail lights. I did this just to make it easier and to make them stand out better. and because I can

Yea man, first ever race car. Good one to learn in, and cheap. and old school. So can't go wrong