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FuzzayD

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Everything posted by FuzzayD

  1. Looks super cool dave, hows the project going nowadays? Id like to do something like this myself wondering what a ball park figure would be
  2. OMG OMG OMG i love your builds they always give me viva motorvation
  3. problem was actually that my carb had the fuel supply running through a fuel return port. On a 32/36 webber (dg-dga-dgav..ect) the top two horizontal pipes are fuel return the ones under and at a 45 degree angle pointing down are fuel supply, most carbs only have one supply fitting drilled. A common misconception is that the two return opposite eack other are fuel in and fuel out, despite the arrows cast into the carb pointing outwards.
  4. I found some old shocks and thought i'd post some pics of how to lower them, not sure on the legalities but seems safe So yeah just cut off the cover then grind down the protruding parts and run down the shaft with a die, once done chuck on a rubber stop and thread down a nylock nut this will lower the vehicle and shorten the stroke of the shock by however much you want. A note of caution if you thread down too much and the threaded portion of the shaft goes past the oil seal you'll let all the oil out and fuck the seal so don't do that and once you have threaded the shaft don't compress the shock until you have a nut on it.
  5. Great project, i ended up getting some hotwires machined to suit the 4x 4' pattern cost like $400 by the end of it. Nice project can't wait to see the 4age'd viva. I know that the 1256 axels can take around 100hp and a decent beating without any trouble. I have 8' wide wheels with 185's which i think is technically illegal stretch according to the chart i saw even though it doesn't look stretched at all. In hindsight i would switch to 14's.
  6. So I've come to the part where i need to run in my fresh motor but i don't have a wof and thus can't get rego. So i decided to just do a burnout to load her up alittle, unfortunately my cluth did not want to do a burn out and blew its release bearing to pieces. Thus the viva curse continues.
  7. I'll do some practical testing and get back to you.
  8. yeah dcoes and dellortos are getting to that stage where people want them for their 60's alfas and shit so mega bucks, i think bike carbs will increase your awesome by at least 15
  9. My viva has no front bumper, grill or head lamp surronds and has a big oil cooler on the front. From what i read in section 2-1 of LVVTA LVV Cert Threshold because it was first registered well before 1999 it does not need to comply with frontal impact occupant protection standard and so i do not need a cert for having these things removed. Correct?
  10. yeah or a big meaty craft knife. I did one with piano wire but it was too hard next time i used a craft knife to cut the layer that over laps the glass on the outside and just poped the window out the front
  11. The heads are specific aren't they? fwd 4afe's have dizzy sticking out the back towards g box, i could be wrong. I agree red top. For a revvy engine 4ages are good. I prefer T series or R series engines. I think a really minimalist 4 age would go quite hard. But they are getting hard to find, old, tired and for some reason expensive.
  12. I think it looks sweet. I wouldn't touch it with all that rust. I look forward to seeing what you can do with it
  13. Sorry i missed those posts i know its been 3 years, there was like an earthquake and i became a mechanic but now i have time to 4um again. All the magnum parts where scooped up by an L90c Volvo loader in January of 2010 while they removed the liquefaction that had buried the car. They were the much bucket seats too. I still have an 1800 diff, hb 1200 diff, HB 1200 front section (drums), hb drive shaft + fuel tank some 4x4' steels and a rear windscreen. some hb dash's and rear lights. Everything has been out side since 2009 and i'm not sure what condition its in.
  14. Grills and bumpers are hard and i don't really want to try hard so i'm just going to put an oil cooler in the front to distract attention from the fan and exposed area around the lights So where do you guys think i should run my lines and mount my cooler that looks good? I know that with such a massive cooler my oil will probably never reach temp and blah blah blah... Because race car, ok.
  15. Sounds about right what if you disconnect the o2 sensor without filter and see if it still skips? I've seen a few cars that have done this with air intake changes especially when people change the crank case ventilating system as most cars compensate for air being drawn through the rocker and as such bypassing the air meter so if you cancel positive crank case ventilation this compensated portion of air is no longer being received causing it to run rich/lean and lean it self off when noticed by the o2 sensor. Most old fuel injection systems only use the o2 sensor to lean off the fuel mix so by unplugging it you will cause it to run at its richest closed loop mixture unless the ecu can notice its unplugged and switched to some closed loop system that doesn't allow it outside of some parameters but i haven't seen an ecu that does that yet. Running it for too long(weeks and months) unplugged can foul catalytic converters. If putting a restriction in the intake fixes the problem then i guess that was the problem. Some cars adapt when the ecu is reset and refine the fuel map to suit the engine and driving conditions perhaps you could reset your ecu and it will detect the correct parameters of running with a different filter on/ not over compensate for adjusting to a restrictive filter
  16. id put like a 22r in it. beefier than a 4age i don't really like 4ages in my experience they have been kinda weak engines from factory compared to the T and R series engines but then again i've always been poor and 4ages are semi pricey.
  17. Well not always a shorter pedal more like less force required to apply with a large increase ration for example if you have a 50mm piston in the master cylinder and 100mm piston in the caliper the manual pedal effort you use is multiplied so if you used 3000newtons of force on the pedal the force being applied by the caliper piston is 6000 newtons. if you have different sized pistons in front to rear calipers they would move at different rates so a biased adjuster would be needed to time them to apply how you would want
  18. if you lost reverse first then all your forward gears i would say it could be the oil pump in the transmission or maybe even the torque converter has shit itself somehow another option could also be that the shift selector could just be out of adjustment or also that there isn't enough oil in the transmission, make sure that you check the dipstick with the engine running to get an accurate reading. Or maybe as simple as a clogged oil filter. Normally if you loose reverse but have all forward gears the fault is in the linkage or a fault in the forward pressure regulator/ selector shaft. In forward 1st/2nd/3rd or 4th clutch and forward clutch are engaged in reverse 4th and 1st clutch are engaged so you can use this information to isolate a worn out clutch pack. If all drives D, R, 1, 2, 3 are gone the only components it could be are shared either the internal oil pump the selector shaft or the oil. Or there is no drive to the transmission. The fact that you say you lost reverse then the other ranges says to me the problem is in the oil pump/oil supply.
  19. you could put an ammeter in series across your battery's positive cable when the key is off and see how much current is being drawn it should be none or below 0.03amps with all your vehicles lights including interior lights off if not, then unplug your altenator see if it drops to 0. if not plug it back in then take out a fuse, if its still drawing current put the fuse back in and try the next one ect... I've sometimes seen where a glove box light doesn't go out when shut causing the battery to drain.
  20. ^^yeah sometimes you just won't make full boost unless you try go up a hill and really load it up.
  21. i had a similar problem in my supra to what you described it turned out to be a fault with the egr system i think it was sticking open and causing the motor to suck in too much fart gas at high rpm so it would reach max boost then as boost dropped after about 3-5 sec it would seem to rev limit or stutter like it dropped a cylinder for a second then be fine again . something to look into before you go ripping the motor apart if you have egr.
  22. its the water choke one the accelerator pump is on the other side and actuated by a cam on the primary throttle shaft this thing is connected to a vaccum line just under the secondary butterfly so is like an additional accelerator pump? seems like vaccum will pull the diaphram against a spring until throttle is opened then the spring must force fuel into something. I've just seen on some cars that run these in formula ford have these missing
  23. This is the area where what i think is some power bypass diaphram bolts on
  24. when you say you remove the filter is the air flow meter still attached to the filter?
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