Sparkle Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 /265 back in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dylann Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 oh my god your crabs are fucking beautiful, if there were a 'miss carb universe' contest i would have faith in them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 shit bro, you dont waste any time, the 51's shadows hardly dimmed in the storage unit and your already painting the firewall.. if I shut my eyes I can still see it there.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
78rona Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 Wow man such a wickedly clean looking build !! Those carbs look awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 Man I love these old Crown coupes. Wow those carbs are a thing of beauty. Re your bump steer issue. Use the MS51 center link (it matches the existing inner LCA bolt points) but everything else MS65. It will put all the geometry back right. It worked on my Anglia when I did a 315 disc conversion. Allowed me to redrill the crossmember to get the caster right then added the 315 center link to get the two sets of centers to match. End result no bump steer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 cant do that. the MS51 drag link has much smaller ball joint taper holes. if i machine them out to take the latter (and available) tie rods and ball joints there wont be any drag link left. however there may be a solution that works and is legal, just sussing out the fine points. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 HiLux or Corona/Carina Wagon KT/KA147? Early Corona up to the 130 series or Cressida 50 60 series? All worth waving a tape measure at. Have a 130 Corona one here if you would like the measurements? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 yea if you could give me the measurements of the one you have that would be helpful. hole center to hole center dimensions and smallest diameter of the various taper holes would be good. cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanfels Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 I have TE71 box steering gear if thats any good to you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 it'd be worth a look if its handy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 9, 2012 Share Posted August 9, 2012 TT132 draglink measurements. Long center to center = 585mm, Box end taper small side = 12.5mm, floating end = 12.5mm. Tie rod center to center = 488mm, drivers side = 12.5, passengers side = 12.5mm. Inner tie rod thread position 100mm to 150mm from taper center with 14x1.5mm thread and 12.5mm small end taper. Left and Right threads available. Outer tie rod thread position 40mm to 85mm from taper center with 14x1.5mm thread and 12.5mm small end taper. Left and Right threads available. Have included the rod end sizes as well just in case they might fit the MS51 draglink and tie rod assembly. They are available new. You might be able to run corona inner and crown outer rod end? Drop arm taper size will dictate which link will work I suppose. I know this sounds really stupid but a lot of the GM product use 1/2" (12.4mm) and 9/16" (14mm) tapers on their rod ends. A link out of an old Holden might work to. HR would be very close to the same track and uses a very similar suspension and steering design to the Crown. The early Crown front end was an almost exact copy of the 1950's and 60's compact Chevs. The front shocks are in fact the same numbers in most after market catalogs, rears to for that matter. I used HQ ones in my RT87. Worth a look? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted August 9, 2012 Share Posted August 9, 2012 thanks for that man! ill see if any of that will fit but it has been OK'ed for me to cut the drag link in two and make a left and right hand threadded sleeve (exactly the same as the toe adjusters but bigger) to adjust the drag link to the right length. if all else fails ill do this. thanks again, sheepers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted August 9, 2012 Share Posted August 9, 2012 Silly question that I'm sure you have thought of but is there any torsional twist on a drag link as it works side to side?? I guess if there is it would be taken up by the inner tie rod end pivots.... Rheotorical/answered/daft question OUT! in before nice one Lingling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camel Posted August 9, 2012 Share Posted August 9, 2012 What you doing with that 4M you scored with the parts car? DIBS???!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted August 9, 2012 Share Posted August 9, 2012 its sitting in my shed waiting for the inevitable 2M head failure. im going to hang on to it for a bit but when i do the engine conversion on the crown its all yours. i will eventually be putting another motor in the crown but not this year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 Beautiful work as always Mr. Did you have to go through the whole gay "do a tech drawing, send it to some cunts, get the ok, do the work, get it xray crack tested" bizzo for mod-in your suspension arms? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 Looking super sweet. Carry on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 Any reason why you didn't use "hollow bags" for your strut to go through? Or just get a combo air bag/shock? You may have answered this already sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 the front arms will have to be crack tested but i didn't have to do a drawing or anything. they will be approved before they get bolted to the car for the final time. i didn't want to use the bag/shock combos because i had no idea how i was going to make it all fit and i wanted a bigger bag (more air) for a better ride. the shock through bag things are fucking expensive and they seem to be predominately for "race" style setups, ie stiff as fuck with very little travel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 KK the hollow bags don’t work with wishbone suspension, the sweep of the shock means the hole is too small. Plus they are a single ply bag only really meant for vertical motion, which again doesn’t work that well with wishbone setups where the lower arm moves in an arc, they were really made for strut setups As for the shock and bag combos they are pretty massive, meaning more hacking of the Crown (they have small spring cups) than will be needed with conventional bags. Also pretty sure when I measured up for a crown the only one that will fit well only gives you 2 inches of travel (the longest one gives you just under 3, you won't really be laying the car out with 2 inches of travel. You can get cushy ones Sheepers the lack of travel is just a design thing. I could bolt some into the Buick with no cutting but I'd be doing the same thing as Sheepers here and move the shock, accept there's a kit for mine Oh and looking good there grumpy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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