Stu Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 I approve of this. I have a similar setup in mine however limited to a storm but still have used all inputs/outputs/DI's incl logging oil pressure/fuel pressure etc. Setting it up so that power will be pulled with any significant drop in either. My thinking is the Link will catch it far quicker than I could. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celica RA45 Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 dave was just looking at your graph. cant you advance the cam up to 45 %at all from 1600 revs then have a look at 6000 and start to retard the cam back and leave it on at about 4% when you get to red line the 12% looks good but you really need a dyno to plot the very best runs and smooth it out from zero throttle up to 100%throttle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 Yeah some dyno time is on the cards at some point for sure. But I thought this would be a good way to get a rough setup for trackday today, and it worked well... For a little while at least haha. Hmmm okay I'll experiment with advancing the cam further some more.However my alternator charge wire popped out after my 40 degrees advanced run.And this was midnight before trackday so decided to call it a day and setup with that.Once my alternator is fixed I'll play around with it some more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 what kind of spray pattern do those injectors have? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 I dont actually know to be honest. I did a bit of reading up previously which suggested that a single pintle design generally has a very narrow spray pattern compared to other designs (which is crappy for when you've got them right by the head, but good for things like this) However yeah, perhaps I need to bench test them and actually have a look. Might be that the spray pattern is way wider than expected.Come to the Nats trackday KPR!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CorollaGT Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 If finding out the ideal timing for the outboard injectors to be used is anything like deciding on how to set up VVT then you should do a full tune without them, then a full tune with only them on (say from 2500rpm onwards if there is concern about them not working correctly at low RPM's) - overlay the results (dyno or virtual dyno) and make a mix of the two. But I dont think I can really get this right without a dyno, and having a way to check individual cylinders for running rich/lean. EGT Sensors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celica RA45 Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 so you are going 2 stage .ok 1st you might have to check your fuel pressure and lift it up to 75lbs and make sure it doesnt drop off .so good quality fuel reg. next set the inboards for idle and power and tune these for up to 50% throttle then from 3500 rpm after 50% start blending in the outboards all the way through using your 2 fuel tables at 100% throttle have the inboards 5% and out boards 95% and last im hoping your ecu has 8 injector drivers also dave whats your ign test advance as mine is 15 and we are using 26 ign timming for a std motor 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 Ahhh okay thanks Glenn.Yeah I've got 8 injector drivers.What do you mean by ignition test advance? You mean ignition advance at full throttle? Mine is currently 22 degrees across the board from 3500rpm up, because I dont have a good way to monitor knock yet (some stuff is on the way) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celica RA45 Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 my ,motec has a test advance screen in the ign set up ,so not to sure on the link and 26 is the most ign im running on the std black top 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 Okay cool thanks, I'm guessing that minimal ignition timing at WOT happens at 6000rpm or there abouts (looks to be peak torque) and then tapers off a bit either side of that? One thing I dont get is that ignition timing doesnt seem to advance relative to rpm by very much. For example 6000rpm doesnt have twice as much advance as 3000rpm, so it's only got half of the time to ignite etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celica RA45 Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 at 100% throttles from 0is 9 400rpm is 9 800is 9at 2400 is changes to 13 at 2800is 15 at 32 its 18 at 3200 its 18 at 36i have 19 4000its 23 same at 4400 46its 25 at 48its the same at 5400up to 25.5 same at 5800 at 6000.its up to 26 at 72its 24 at 7600 back to 25and at 8000its back to 26 and 82up to 27 and 84 up to 27 this is a std black top ign table cam timming on std black top with VVTI again at 100% throttle 800 is 10 1600 is 15 2000 is 25 24 is 35 28 is 45 32 is 45 36 is 45 4000 is 45 44 is 45 48 is 45 52 is 45 56 is 44 6000 is 35 64 is 30 68 is 25 76 is 15 8000 is 15 and 8200 is 15 84 is 12 and 8800 is 5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 Thanks Glenn! Good to know, my basemap looks to be 2-3 degrees advance behind all of that. Once I've got my knock monitoring stuff I'll set it to those figures and see how it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celica RA45 Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 ok my 2 stage injection timming set up btdc main table 800rpm is 185 through to 4800 at 52 its 175 at 56 its 165 at 60 155 64 145 68 135 72 125 7600 115 at 8000 its 95 end of injection timming out board 800 rpm 340 to 2000 24 try 320 28 try 300 32 280 36 285 40 290 4400 290 56 is 290 60 280 64 280 84 is 260 and 240 for 8800 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celica RA45 Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 see how you go with that on the std motor was using 365 and 750 cc 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celica RA45 Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 if your car is hard under brakes and the back is lifting 1st what shockers are you using and how thick is your front sway bar and what spring rates do you have on the front in lbs please Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 To be honest I've gone a bit arse about face with my suspension... I spent $$$ on things like rosejointed castor arms, big brakes etc but then my springs and shocks are utter junk! Skimped on probably the most important parts which is a bit silly.The front springs are random items found in random Mazda coilovers by my neighbour, front shocks are unknown and my rear shocks are from a hilux or something.The front of the car doesnt dip - the back raises up. This was the first thing that I asked, to people who were watching it. It rides a little harshly and I'm sure it could be better while also handling better - it's on the to-do list.The front swaybar is 24mm I think, I got it made to 1 or 2mm bigger diameter than standard. Although it's length is a lot longer as it needs to go around the front of the Altezza sump. Not running a rear swaybar at all.Front springs are at a guess somewhere in the region of 6kgmm ( 335lb) and rear springs I had made to 3.5kgmm (195lb)The spring rates feel nice, a lot nicer than when the car was super stiff all around.But I think my shocks are what's letting it down at the moment, although I think 4 link angle changes will make the biggest difference out of anything right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celica RA45 Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 im using bilstein and got them made to suit rally suspension as the old race 1s were to hard .the back will lift if the shocks are shit ,im up to 27mm on the front adjustable sway bar and up to the max for adjustment .your car and mine should be similar in length and weight ,i still use std rubber bushes in the back from ra60 celicas and on the front.. nolathane bushes in the front lower arms etc.. my spring rates are 220 on the back and 350 on the front and im using spring rubbers which are cut in half and add 15 lbs when pushed into the springs for around the island the rear sway only is a std toyota 12mm sway bar .my 4 links are std as we cant adjust but can do things in other ways like my new cambered rear end Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shandangles Posted May 23, 2015 Share Posted May 23, 2015 holy shit car haiku lold me hard!!!!!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UTERUS Posted May 24, 2015 Share Posted May 24, 2015 More features, more graphs. Love your work Dave 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Honda Ass Dragger Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 Clutch switch is fancy, I use a magnetic stick on reed switch for launch control 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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