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Pretty much. A lot is due to corrosion or shit mounting, but you can usually tell when some joker is gonna drag a 2T boat on something that's probably only rated for 750kg. As far as I'm concerned that's not our problem, but apparently a sticker is needed to ensure the blame is on the owner or some shit.

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Hi, 
In the case of coilover suspension like this, where there's a height adjustable section at the bottom (which means the shock assembly can be completely removed from the part that mounts to the hub) 

Would it be okay to cut off those mounting points for the hub, and put some new ones on to fit a different hub bolt spacing/angle? 

I'd assume it would need tig and crack test.

1221.jpg.181f8021169c5ae5b30baa5d8d91eec2.jpg
 

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57 minutes ago, Yowzer said:

Pretty much. A lot is due to corrosion or shit mounting, but you can usually tell when some joker is gonna drag a 2T boat on something that's probably only rated for 750kg. As far as I'm concerned that's not our problem, but apparently a sticker is needed to ensure the blame is on the owner or some shit.

What about a situation where a car has a dealer option genuine towbar from 38 years ago and never had a load rating?

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45 minutes ago, ajg193 said:

What about a situation where a car has a dealer option genuine towbar from 38 years ago and never had a load rating?

It fails due to rust

Nah fucked if I know. After seeing how much fun the guys were having with the auditing I was more than happy to not have my wof ticket

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1 hour ago, Roman said:

Hi, 
In the case of coilover suspension like this, where there's a height adjustable section at the bottom (which means the shock assembly can be completely removed from the part that mounts to the hub) 

Would it be okay to cut off those mounting points for the hub, and put some new ones on to fit a different hub bolt spacing/angle? 

I'd assume it would need tig and crack test.

1221.jpg.181f8021169c5ae5b30baa5d8d91eec2.jpg
 

Yep that could be done if you do it like you say 

If it was me I'd try and incorporate some extra gussets rather than just 2 bits of flat bar butt welded on , some coilover brands do this, some do not

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56 minutes ago, ajg193 said:

The new LVVTA online data system is pretty nice. All it needs now is a sale price box and trademe could be put out of business

https://lookup.lvvta.org.nz/search/?search_id=r3vznnobh1dg

 

@cletus I hope you made him rectify those short window winder handles

I would have thought they would have that stuff behind a secure login...?

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22 minutes ago, ajg193 said:

Is there any intention to ever get an unpaid uni intern to slowly transfer the old plate system info and photos into that database?

and accidentally lose half the stuff like the old plates info eh

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I’ve turned my car back to stock, what do I do now to make sure I can get a WoF?
Returning a previously certified car to stock is an easy one. Just call your local certifier, and they can have a quick look over the car and remove the plate. The plate will then be sent back to LVVTA, who will then let NZTA know, and will have the removal of the mention of the cert plate removed from the system. This is quite common for vehicles that have previously had hand controls fitted for a disabled driver or a car that's had adjustable suspension removed and standard suspension fitted.
There is a small cost involved, for the certifier’s time, but it’s minimal.

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2 hours ago, M.H. said:

My vr4 is certed for coilovers, how much of a hassle/cost is it to uncert it if I put normal suspension back in?

Find some coilovers that aren't buggered - or get yours reccod?  Car is arguably worth more to future purchasers certed with 'judz'

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16 minutes ago, oldrx7 said:

Find some coilovers that aren't buggered - or get yours reccod?  Car is arguably worth more to future purchasers certed with 'judz'

If its a cheap easy process to un cert it Ill just buy some oem springs and bilstein shocks and then at least I can put the 17" evo 7 wheels on it. As it is I will have to put the 16s back on it each wof or get it re certified 

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