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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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cheers Dane!

Andy- if it needs to be there because of a modification then it can be covered by the lvv cert, ie if its been cut out to make room for the engine or trans. as long as its safe, etc

otherwise it would have to be fixed to the repair cert standards.

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Is there a rule for engine clearance to other parts/body of the car?

Just asking because my sump is 3mm from the steering rack (although doesn't effect the steering at all) and the tappet cover is only about 4-5mm from the heater box, inlet manifold 3-4mm from brake booster etc.

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does this look all good to you man?

(for the driveshaft hoop)

a bit on the small side for going thru a panel steel floor

stolen from lvv forum:

Where it is not practicable to attach a drive-shaft safety loop to a chassis or sub-frame rail, or rigid cross-member, it should be attached to the vehicle floor using doubler plates which have a minimum mating area of 3000 square mm, and are as close to square as can be practically achieved.

i usually suggest using 50x50 square washers for each bolt just cause its easy to explain/write down

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Is there a rule for engine clearance to other parts/body of the car?

Just asking because my sump is 3mm from the steering rack (although doesn't effect the steering at all) and the tappet cover is only about 4-5mm from the heater box, inlet manifold 3-4mm from brake booster etc.

as long as it doesnt ever hit anything, (allowing for movement in mounts as well)

and it should be mounted in a way that if the engine mount were to fail, the engine cant move far enough to jam the steering. this can be quite tricky- many 1uz conversions have issues with this due to the head/exhaust manifold usually being quite close to steering shafts in hiluxes etc

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Yea I have passed a fair few wofs without one but last wof they failed me for it and said its a new law.

Just wanting to know a definitive answer weather its needed or not before I go for the wof. Car has a green sticker aswell which dosent help my chances :doubt:

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in regards to steering rack conversion, do the tie rods have to point straight out to the hub or is a small angle up acceptable? cheers

You want the steering arm to go through exactly the same arc as the suspension to get 0 bump steer. It's the arc that is important, the relation ship of the arms depends alot of the design of the steering

http://www.circletrack.com/chassistech/ ... ewall.html

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You will probably struggle to get zero. If the setup is already fabricated or just using plug 'n' play bolt on OEM parts then you are stuck with what you have and I would probably just run with it and see how it drove if its not obviously way way way way out. Can't really tell from that pic if its good or bad unfortunately.

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yeah sweet as, that's what Im thinking also.

Unfortunately it seems to be completely uncharted territory for what I'm doing and will just have to see how it turns out, Ill make an update on my project thread this weekend.

basically mounting a manual steering rack of another vehicle to my crossmember and possibly change tie rod ends to suit and seek advice about the universals setup from the likes of Autolign.

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